The RPM's fluctuate by 500 as the motor sputters for about 15-20 seconds. After which it stops and from there on out the car runs fine. It will even fire up fine the rest of the day.
There's no codes to read, but I'm assuming it's either the IAC or the MAF.
The only reason I mention the MAF is because I've added a Spectre air filter in place of the original air box. It's an oiled filter. I've already cleaned the MAF. If I disconnect the MAF the CEL comes on and the car limps around (So it's functioning, but I don't know if it was compromised)
I'd like to get a look at the IAC but I don't know where it's located, can anyone post a diagram?
The IAC is a silver cylinder on the opposite end of the air intake hose near the middle of the engine. It is right next to a thing that looks like a UFO.
With it stuttering, I'm more inclined to think it's an ignition issue, or a mixture issue. If the gap is too large, or the spark is too weak, you'll get that cold start stuttering that you describe, which goes away as the engine warms up.
How are your plugs looking? Are the wires old at all?
With it stuttering, I'm more inclined to think it's an ignition issue, or a mixture issue. If the gap is too large, or the spark is too weak, you'll get that cold start stuttering that you describe, which goes away as the engine warms up.
How are your plugs looking? Are the wires old at all?[/b]
I have noticed the same thing with mine, but it doesn't shutter.
It ideals hight 2k - 1.5K for 30 seconds, when started cold. and it takes a good 1 mintes to drop under 1k rpm.
so, i always have to wait for a minute to drop under 1k, before i put it in Drive.
I have seen my friends camry, accord, civic etc idles less than 1k rpm in a second, and they can be driven right off, they don't have to wait.
is there something wrong with the car, which needs to be fixed ?
Had a similar issue with my same engine a few months back. Ended up cleaning the IAC valve with brake cleaner and also cleaning the MAF with Mass Air Flow specific cleaner. I also had to change the fuel filter
It ended up working itself out with all of that, and since i replaced my plugs and wires it runs even better, but i think the IAC valve and the MAF were the issue.
I have noticed the same thing with mine, but it doesn't shutter.
It ideals hight 2k - 1.5K for 30 seconds, when started cold. and it takes a good 1 mintes to drop under 1k rpm.
so, i always have to wait for a minute to drop under 1k, before i put it in Drive.
I have seen my friends camry, accord, civic etc idles less than 1k rpm in a second, and they can be driven right off, they don't have to wait.
is there something wrong with the car, which needs to be fixed ?
Its a very good idea to let your car run and let your oil actually start flowing before throwing it in drive anyway. I have heard of a lot of issues with idle going high for a few seconds or even a minute before dropping to proper idle speed with a few different Vulcan owners, i don't think its a big issue, but might be IAC valve related or MAF again. Cleaning both is a great maintenance idea.
Either way if the engine was warm and the oil was flowing, putting it in drive would drop your RPMs just fine.
From what i understand though over 90% of engine wear occurs within the first 1-2 minutes of startup when the engine is lacking oil, and the cold makes it worse, so don't just start it up and drive off within a few seconds either way.
Mine does similar to all of the above plus runs rich (gas smell) when first started with a little high idle that takes a little time to come down and then, sometimes likes to hesitate or stall when put into gear when first started or is cold.
Once the vehicle is warm and driven its fine?!?!?!
IAC seems fine, MAF has been cleaned, Throttle body/plate/butterfly cleaned, Neutral saftey seems fine.. Plugs and plug wires are fairly new still.... Just cant track my cars prob issue down. Oh and recently my power steering has felt as if it could be going out. Im thinking it may be part of the original problem but who knows. Problems like these point to the Neitral saftey or pcm or other sensors but if there was a problem there a check engine light should illuminate.
Maybe its just the old age of our engines showing, no engine light means all should be ok but its weird these Taurus/Sable cars are having ptoblems like this with no significant reason why. Or maybe its a mechanical problem that the OBD II system cant pick up? Which is quite rare id think. Good luck! Let me know if you find a solution!!!
I was taking the plugs out to inspect them and managed to destroy the insulator on three of them; but that's not the only thing.
The old plugs were only a few months old but the center electrode was very worn. So I bought a brand new set, gapped them all appropriately and reinstalled. This was Sunday, the problem hasn't been back since.
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