QUOTE (Damon @ Dec 15 2009, 03:33 AM)
QUOTE (2004 Sable GS OHV
95k @ Dec 15 2009, 02:11 AM)
On Sunday I was trying to replace the front bearing hub.
I watched the demo video from Youtube several times, making sure
I understand every detail. However, when I came to take the
ball joint out of the socket, it's sooooooo tight.
I rented several tools first from autozone. I used the pitman arm puller
to force the stud out. But the stud sits there so tightly, and even I sprayed
the penetrating catalyst several times, still no progress. Then I guess
maybe the strut and spring in suspension exert force on it. So I begged
my friend to take me a ride to autozone to rent the suspension tool kit.
But the kit is not easy to use when the spring is still in the car. So I
took another hour to figure out a way to use the tool to compress the spring.
Still the ball joint won't come out. I have to continue to force it.
When I was almost desperate, I heard a big "Bang" and the ball joint
pop out. It must be rust or something that binds it so tightly.
I used a long pry bar to press the lower control arm down to bottom.
Still there is not enough room for the ball joint to completely come out.
It seems at the same time I have to raise the whole steering knuckle
to get the ball joint out. Do I need to pull the whole strut+spring out
for this job?
It was getting darker so I have to put everything back in place.
The BAD news is when I put the nut to the ball joint stud and tight it down.
I found the thread on the stud was crossed. It was so frustrating.
When I turn the nut, the stud will turn with it. I tried to use the
impact wrench to force it in, but the ground clearance is not high enough
to use the impact wrench. I just barely put the nut on.
Can anyone give me some suggestions on this horrible project?
Thanks a lot!![/b]
From what I understand, the balljoint is not seated correctly in the lower control arm.
If you have another jack while the car is jacked up, place the jack under the lower control arm and put some tension on the LCA
(raise the jack so the spring compresses a little, but not so much that the entire car is lifted, that would not be good). This should seat the balljoint correctly, and prevent it from turning like it is while you are trying to tighten it.
I THINK this is what you are describing. If not, please elaborate. Pics help as well.
Maybe my description is not clear.
As you know, the ball joint sits into the hole in the lower control arm(LCA
) very tightly.
I removed the 18mm nut first, and used the pitman tool to pop the stud out of its socket.
My goodness, this is quite a pain and challenging, since I worried if I'm going to break
the pitman clamp, the ball joint stud, or the rachet wrench. Finally, I heard a loud "pong"
and the joint was separated. But it really scared me.
Now the problem is, even though the joint is free from the hole, there is not enough cleance
to completely pull it out from the hole on the LCA
. I used a pry bar to push LCA
down to the bottom,
but still the cleance is not long enough for the stud to be pulled out. I did a search in this forum
and some people loosen the two bolts on the subframe so it can be taken off. I checked the
subframe under my car, it seems the whole subframe was mounted to the chassis with quite
a few big bolts. Do they mean the two bolts that mount the LCA
to the subframe?