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Cannot Get The Lower Ball Joint Out Of Place

11K views 22 replies 10 participants last post by  james27613 
#1 ·
On Sunday I was trying to replace the front bearing hub.
I watched the demo video from Youtube several times, making sure
I understand every detail. However, when I came to take the
ball joint out of the socket, it's sooooooo tight.

I rented several tools first from autozone. I used the pitman arm puller
to force the stud out. But the stud sits there so tightly, and even I sprayed
the penetrating catalyst several times, still no progress. Then I guess
maybe the strut and spring in suspension exert force on it. So I begged
my friend to take me a ride to autozone to rent the suspension tool kit.
But the kit is not easy to use when the spring is still in the car. So I
took another hour to figure out a way to use the tool to compress the spring.
Still the ball joint won't come out. I have to continue to force it.
When I was almost desperate, I heard a big "Bang" and the ball joint
pop out. It must be rust or something that binds it so tightly.

I used a long pry bar to press the lower control arm down to bottom.
Still there is not enough room for the ball joint to completely come out.
It seems at the same time I have to raise the whole steering knuckle
to get the ball joint out. Do I need to pull the whole strut+spring out
for this job?

It was getting darker so I have to put everything back in place.
The BAD news is when I put the nut to the ball joint stud and tight it down.
I found the thread on the stud was crossed. It was so frustrating.
When I turn the nut, the stud will turn with it. I tried to use the
impact wrench to force it in, but the ground clearance is not high enough
to use the impact wrench. I just barely put the nut on.

Can anyone give me some suggestions on this horrible project?

Thanks a lot!!
 
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#2 ·
QUOTE (2004 Sable GS OHV 95k @ Dec 15 2009, 02:11 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=773498
On Sunday I was trying to replace the front bearing hub.
I watched the demo video from Youtube several times, making sure
I understand every detail. However, when I came to take the
ball joint out of the socket, it's sooooooo tight.

I rented several tools first from autozone. I used the pitman arm puller
to force the stud out. But the stud sits there so tightly, and even I sprayed
the penetrating catalyst several times, still no progress. Then I guess
maybe the strut and spring in suspension exert force on it. So I begged
my friend to take me a ride to autozone to rent the suspension tool kit.
But the kit is not easy to use when the spring is still in the car. So I
took another hour to figure out a way to use the tool to compress the spring.
Still the ball joint won't come out. I have to continue to force it.
When I was almost desperate, I heard a big "Bang" and the ball joint
pop out. It must be rust or something that binds it so tightly.

I used a long pry bar to press the lower control arm down to bottom.
Still there is not enough room for the ball joint to completely come out.
It seems at the same time I have to raise the whole steering knuckle
to get the ball joint out. Do I need to pull the whole strut+spring out
for this job?

It was getting darker so I have to put everything back in place.
The BAD news is when I put the nut to the ball joint stud and tight it down.
I found the thread on the stud was crossed. It was so frustrating.
When I turn the nut, the stud will turn with it. I tried to use the
impact wrench to force it in, but the ground clearance is not high enough
to use the impact wrench. I just barely put the nut on.

Can anyone give me some suggestions on this horrible project?

Thanks a lot!![/b]

From what I understand, the balljoint is not seated correctly in the lower control arm.

If you have another jack while the car is jacked up, place the jack under the lower control arm and put some tension on the LCA (raise the jack so the spring compresses a little, but not so much that the entire car is lifted, that would not be good). This should seat the balljoint correctly, and prevent it from turning like it is while you are trying to tighten it.

I THINK this is what you are describing. If not, please elaborate. Pics help as well.

Good luck
-DC
 
#4 ·
Your balljoint is now scrap because of the cross-threading so buy a new one. When you get back to work on the car, cut the nut and pin off the balljoint with a torch or a grinder, remove a sway bar link to get the clearance you needed to clear the control arm in the first place and remove the axle and old balljoint from the steering knuckle. Install the new balljoint with a balljoint press and replace the axle.

Good luck, Popeye
 
#6 ·
If your ball joint thread is crossed, you need another ball joint. They are cheap judging from the prices on rockauto. Seems like there is a c-clip preventing it from falling out. Get that c-clip out, then just pound the ball joint out using a big hammer (a puller can also work). This will actually help you since alignment is easy after the balljoint comes out.
 
#7 ·
QUOTE (Damon @ Dec 15 2009, 03:33 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=773500
QUOTE (2004 Sable GS OHV 95k @ Dec 15 2009, 02:11 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=773498
On Sunday I was trying to replace the front bearing hub.
I watched the demo video from Youtube several times, making sure
I understand every detail. However, when I came to take the
ball joint out of the socket, it's sooooooo tight.

I rented several tools first from autozone. I used the pitman arm puller
to force the stud out. But the stud sits there so tightly, and even I sprayed
the penetrating catalyst several times, still no progress. Then I guess
maybe the strut and spring in suspension exert force on it. So I begged
my friend to take me a ride to autozone to rent the suspension tool kit.
But the kit is not easy to use when the spring is still in the car. So I
took another hour to figure out a way to use the tool to compress the spring.
Still the ball joint won't come out. I have to continue to force it.
When I was almost desperate, I heard a big "Bang" and the ball joint
pop out. It must be rust or something that binds it so tightly.

I used a long pry bar to press the lower control arm down to bottom.
Still there is not enough room for the ball joint to completely come out.
It seems at the same time I have to raise the whole steering knuckle
to get the ball joint out. Do I need to pull the whole strut+spring out
for this job?

It was getting darker so I have to put everything back in place.
The BAD news is when I put the nut to the ball joint stud and tight it down.
I found the thread on the stud was crossed. It was so frustrating.
When I turn the nut, the stud will turn with it. I tried to use the
impact wrench to force it in, but the ground clearance is not high enough
to use the impact wrench. I just barely put the nut on.

Can anyone give me some suggestions on this horrible project?

Thanks a lot!![/b]

From what I understand, the balljoint is not seated correctly in the lower control arm.

If you have another jack while the car is jacked up, place the jack under the lower control arm and put some tension on the LCA (raise the jack so the spring compresses a little, but not so much that the entire car is lifted, that would not be good). This should seat the balljoint correctly, and prevent it from turning like it is while you are trying to tighten it.

I THINK this is what you are describing. If not, please elaborate. Pics help as well.

Good luck
-DC
[/b][/quote]

Maybe my description is not clear.
As you know, the ball joint sits into the hole in the lower control arm(LCA) very tightly.
I removed the 18mm nut first, and used the pitman tool to pop the stud out of its socket.
My goodness, this is quite a pain and challenging, since I worried if I'm going to break
the pitman clamp, the ball joint stud, or the rachet wrench. Finally, I heard a loud "pong"
and the joint was separated. But it really scared me.

Now the problem is, even though the joint is free from the hole, there is not enough cleance
to completely pull it out from the hole on the LCA. I used a pry bar to push LCA down to the bottom,
but still the cleance is not long enough for the stud to be pulled out. I did a search in this forum
and some people loosen the two bolts on the subframe so it can be taken off. I checked the
subframe under my car, it seems the whole subframe was mounted to the chassis with quite
a few big bolts. Do they mean the two bolts that mount the LCA to the subframe?
 
#8 ·
In several demo videos, I saw the people, including professional mechanics,
used the U-shape wedge with handle to force into the space between the ball joint
and the LCA. I actually rented this tool form autozone. But there is no doubt that
this wedge will definitely destroy the rubber seal of the joint. How can they
do the mechanic work in this careless way?

QUOTE (Damon @ Dec 15 2009, 03:33 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=773501
Also, air tools help a ton![/b]
 
#9 ·
There is another way of removing the ball joint from the control arm besides using a pickle fork. With the rotor still on the wheel put a jack under it and jack it slowly. As it raises take a hammer and gently tap the control arm off. Obviously watch you don't damage the threads on the ball joint. If your ball joint threads are damaged it may be possible to use a small triangular file to try to fix them. Also check the nut for damage.
 
#10 ·
hi,

using the 'pickle fork' to separate the balljoint from the control arm will
destroy the rubber boot, not a problem if the balljoint is bad and will need replacement.

OTC Tools 6297 Ball Joint Separator will not damage a good ball joint boot.

if your joint is good, you should be able to dress up the threads with a good file.

If I understand the problem you now have, you can't get enough clearance to
lift the balljoint up and out of the LCA (lower control arm).

with rotor attached to hub, lug nuts hand tight,
place floor jack just under the bottom of the rotor,
lift jack an inch or so as you gently push down on the LCA
with prybar or longer pipe.

This should give you enough clearance to move the balljoint stud
off of the LCA.

regards
 
#11 ·
:rolleyes2: Normally I love working on cars but I shy away from doing any suspension work. Most home mechanics do not have the facilities or tools to tackle jobs that often involve frozen bolts and heavy force techniques, rust, etc, etc. It's great to save money and enjoy get'n dirty but you have to draw a line somewhere. Most of those "big" jobs are once only, so pay someone else to do it and don't feel bad!!
 
#12 ·
Hi,

I agree some tasks are best left to a pro or the machine shop,
however, if you don't have any funds to budget for the pro repair
then you have to do it yourself or get a friend to help.

Another factor, if you've done the repair before but not on the
car you now have, there is a learning curve, even the ford manuals
are not written for the avg diy guy or gal, sometimes they leave out
a vital step, photo or exploded drawing.

If you can change oil you can do shocks, struts, ball joints, etc.
and have the machine shop press out/in the ball joints if one is close by.
It helps to have a second car should you get hung up on a fix and
the time to do it.

OTC 6297 ball joint separator tool works great !

For Taurus ball joints r/r get the OTC 7249 Ball Joint Service Tool Set
and the necessary adapter kit for the Taurus (and other series) cars
OTC 8032A - 4 Piece Ford Ball Joint Adapter Set

Buy it once and no more trips to the machine shop and the fees,
plus no lost time for the actual labor and the time to wait for it.

quality 1/2" drive sockets along with breaker bar will help
along with liquid wrench, pb blaster or your favorite product.

regards
 
#13 ·
QUOTE (gary55 @ Dec 18 2009, 06:44 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=774303
There is another way of removing the ball joint from the control arm besides using a pickle fork. With the rotor still on the wheel put a jack under it and jack it slowly. As it raises take a hammer and gently tap the control arm off. Obviously watch you don't damage the threads on the ball joint. If your ball joint threads are damaged it may be possible to use a small triangular file to try to fix them. Also check the nut for damage.[/b]
This is what I'm going to try. I borrowed a very small triangle file, hoping it can help me
to fix the threads. It's really a bad idea to replace the whole steering knuckle just due to
a crossed joint stud.
 
#14 ·
QUOTE (james27613 @ Dec 18 2009, 08:24 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=774315
hi,

using the 'pickle fork' to separate the balljoint from the control arm will
destroy the rubber boot, not a problem if the balljoint is bad and will need replacement.

OTC Tools 6297 Ball Joint Separator will not damage a good ball joint boot.

if your joint is good, you should be able to dress up the threads with a good file.

If I understand the problem you now have, you can't get enough clearance to
lift the balljoint up and out of the LCA (lower control arm).

with rotor attached to hub, lug nuts hand tight,
place floor jack just under the bottom of the rotor,
lift jack an inch or so as you gently push down on the LCA
with prybar or longer pipe.

This should give you enough clearance to move the balljoint stud
off of the LCA.

regards[/b]
Thanks for the instructions. This is I'm going to try tomorrow.
Some people mentioned there is another easier way to get the ball joint
out of the LCA. They took off the subframe by loosening 2 bolts to gain
enough room for the LCA to by pried down further. I'm curious which
2 bolts they can manage to easily take off the whole subframe.
 
#15 ·
QUOTE (gary55 @ Dec 18 2009, 06:44 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=774303
There is another way of removing the ball joint from the control arm besides using a pickle fork. With the rotor still on the wheel put a jack under it and jack it slowly. As it raises take a hammer and gently tap the control arm off. Obviously watch you don't damage the threads on the ball joint. If your ball joint threads are damaged it may be possible to use a small triangular file to try to fix them. Also check the nut for damage.[/b]
Today I got a bad idea on how to separate the tough ball joint from lower control arm.
I just loosen the 18mm a few turn nut that mounts the ball joint stud. Then I'll drive
this car for a few days. I hope the dangling force of the vehicle will eventually pull
the ball joint stud from the hole of the LCA. Maybe this is a dangerous implementation.
 
#16 ·
Before you do any filing of the bolt clean it enough so you can visually inspect the threads. They may be ok and the nut is the problem. Hopefully it is the nut you can just buy a new one or get one from a bone yard. Good Luck post back and let us know how things went.
 
#17 ·
I spent about 6 hours today and finally got the left side wheel bearing replaced.

It's a big job and an assistant will be of a lot help.
Yes, I did fix the crossed thread on the stud after filing about an hour with a small triangle file.
It's much easier than replacing a new ball joint or even the whole steering knuckle. The lesson I learnt
is "think twice before rush into some work". This will save a whole bunch of time and trouble.

As for the ball joint stud separation from the LCA after it popped out, I tried method I
in previous posts. I raised the rotor with a spare jack and pry the LCA with break bar.
But it didn't work for me and the stud was stuck in the hole. Then I tried method II
and loosen the bolts of the subframe, which gave more room to pry the LCA down enough
to pull out the stud.

After this it still took me quite a while to turn the knuckle back and forth a few times.
Finally I found a good position to barely pull the CV axle out. Actually the CV was so
tightly fit into the splines of the hub that I have to resort to a two-jaw puller to push it out.

The old bearing was still good and tight, and didn't show any free play. But I decided to
put the new one on (National BCA). Surprisingly the new bearing was a little loose when it slided into
the socket (maybe ~0.3mm clearance), but the old bearing is an exact fit into the socket.

Since the new bearing is so tight, I would expect a little rough drive for a few days,
along with lower horse power and lower fuel economy for the first few hundreds miles.

QUOTE (gary55 @ Dec 19 2009, 02:11 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=774384
Before you do any filing of the bolt clean it enough so you can visually inspect the threads. They may be ok and the nut is the problem. Hopefully it is the nut you can just buy a new one or get one from a bone yard. Good Luck post back and let us know how things went.[/b]
 
#19 ·
If you have taken the hub assembly off the car, you have to heat the Knuckle to get the balljoint out. I took mine to a friend's house and we used a torch and then tapped the balljoint out. The new balljoint went back in OK.
I got a new hub bearing assembly and balljoint from Rockauto.com.
Take caution handling your half shaft. Don't let it drop too low; support it.
 

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#21 ·
QUOTE (toronut @ Dec 18 2009, 07:18 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=774323
:rolleyes2: Normally I love working on cars but I shy away from doing any suspension work. Most home mechanics do not have the facilities or tools to tackle jobs that often involve frozen bolts and heavy force techniques, rust, etc, etc. It's great to save money and enjoy get'n dirty but you have to draw a line somewhere. Most of those "big" jobs are once only, so pay someone else to do it and don't feel bad!![/b]
My only limits are the "Hassle" factor and the fact that I don't have an alignment machine.

I can do about anything to a car, I chose not to because of aforementioned "Hassle" factor

mike
:D

EDIT: I forgot to add that one of the other factors is how much cash it's going to cost vs the Hassle factor.
 
#22 ·
:rolleyes2: Yay, the yeouch factor!! Nothing down there is rocket science, but sometimes you run into PITA problems like stuck nuts and bolts--and it's Sunday--no parts store open, and you gotta work Monday 50 miles away!! No second vehicle either--bit off more than you can chew this time! I ain't General Patton, so I would not attempt this job on suspension which is always a PITA for the home mechanic. It's also minus 30 Degrees and dark and I do not even have a garage. HASSLE FACTOR is right, life has enough problems besides masochism!! Pay da price at a reasonable shop and stay in the warm with a sweet honey and your favorite brew!
 
#23 ·
hi,

to help put the new ball joint back in the LCA,
with strut installed, rotor on hub, lug nuts hand tight,
place jack under rotor.
use strap wrench or rope with dowel or wrench to
tighten up the tension to keep the strut in position,
gently raise up jack under the rotor and you can slip it in easy.

I also selected Monroe struts, got them at amazon.com,
along with Moog balljoints, tie rod ends and sway bar link.

regards
 
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