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Old 07-01-2009, 11:08 PM   #1 (permalink)
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The hose below the water pump goes into a steel tube with a few bends in it. It is rusted and spent. Can't find a good one in a junk yard. I live in the Northeast and these are all rusted. I am not sure how to describe it to a parts counter person as this engine has allot of tubes in its cooling system. Does anyone know the proper nomenclature to describe this? Does Ford have a drawing of the hose routing that is available.? A picture is worth 1000's of words. It was suggested i try to make one out of copper. Will this material be compatable with the cooling system.? Any other ideas?
I am told it is very expensive at the Dealer.
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Old 07-02-2009, 01:00 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I know exactly what hose you are talking about and the troubles it is to find it and get in and change it. When i get home tomorrow i will do my best to find the diagram i have and the parts number on my other computer.

-Mike
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Old 07-02-2009, 09:08 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Mike,

Thanks for your help in getting me the part numbers.

All,

I anyone knows about the material compatability issues I would appreciate any feedback. I am looking into all options right now.

Sorry for the 3 posts. The website locked up on me for what seemed to be 10 minutes or longer immediately after I hit the post message button. As a reflex I hit the post button several times in frustration. I guess it took some of them.

Thanks,
John
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Old 07-03-2009, 01:46 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Replacing with a flex hose is an option...
Duratec Coolant Hose
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Old 07-03-2009, 10:08 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I changed mine a while back and ran into the same problem as you. What I did was take the old hose off and took it to my NAPA auto parts store and there we went through all the hoses he had hanging up there. We ended up using a piece of steel tailpipe along with the hoses. The whole setup cost me about $20 and it worked fine.
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Old 07-04-2009, 04:24 PM   #6 (permalink)
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So i have some bad news... going through everything i found out that the tube your describing cant be bought except from Ford and its around $150. The only after market for it was to replace to rubber if it got worn but if the steel rusted out you're out of luck. When replacing it you may need to drop the cross member as well.

so pretty much your options are a Ford replacement, flex tubing, or what jerrysanta did ( which sounds pretty cool haha).

-Mike
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Old 10-17-2009, 07:41 AM   #7 (permalink)
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QUOTE (Schumacher609 @ Jul 4 2009, 04:24 PM)
Quote:
So i have some bad news... going through everything i found out that the tube your describing cant be bought except from Ford and its around $150. The only after market for it was to replace to rubber if it got worn but if the steel rusted out you're out of luck. When replacing it you may need to drop the cross member as well.

so pretty much your options are a Ford replacement, flex tubing, or what jerrysanta did ( which sounds pretty cool haha).

-Mike[/b]
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Old 10-17-2009, 08:05 AM   #8 (permalink)
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QUOTE (nbpt100 @ Oct 17 2009, 07:41 AM)
Quote:
QUOTE (Schumacher609 @ Jul 4 2009, 04:24 PM)
Quote:
So i have some bad news... going through everything i found out that the tube your describing cant be bought except from Ford and its around $150. The only after market for it was to replace to rubber if it got worn but if the steel rusted out you're out of luck. When replacing it you may need to drop the cross member as well.

so pretty much your options are a Ford replacement, flex tubing, or what jerrysanta did ( which sounds pretty cool haha).

-Mike[/b]
[/b][/quote]


What I ended up doing was going to NAPA and they had a series of 1.5" ID Flex Form Coolant hose. I bought length three sizes as they would let me return what I did not use. My local store is pretty good about these things.

I had a 17", 20" and 22" long hose. The 17 was too short by a small amount. The 20 and 22 worked but both needed to be restrained with a tie wrap to ensure it will not hit the serpentine belt. I ended up cutting about .5" off each end of the 20" incher (NAPA P/N FF257) to tighten it up. It is clearing the belt fine now. It is close to the motor mount but does not appear to touch it even as I shift from Reverse to Drive. I would assume an 18-18.5" long hose would be optimum, If you can find one. The NAPA hoses are made by Gates and I found them to flex easier than the others I have seen form AZ and Advance Auto. They have deeper convolute grooves. Total cost about $15. but, allot of time spent on fooling around with everything to get it right.

To get the original assembly out you need to remove the upper hose off of the pipe. I cut the crimp off with a cut off wheel. To get at the front clamp i needed to access it from the top. I had to remove the rad fan to get a channel locks in there on the hose spring clamp. To remove the radiator fan I had to remove one of the upper coolant lines. All a bit time consuming. When Reinstalled I replaced all factory spring clamps with worm gear clamps and positioned so I can access from below.


A very reasonable work around fix once you know what to use.
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Old 03-28-2010, 12:00 PM   #9 (permalink)
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QUOTE (nbpt100 @ Jul 1 2009, 11:08 PM)
Quote:
The hose below the water pump goes into a steel tube with a few bends in it. It is rusted and spent. Can't find a good one in a junk yard. I live in the Northeast and these are all rusted. I am not sure how to describe it to a parts counter person as this engine has allot of tubes in its cooling system. Does anyone know the proper nomenclature to describe this? Does Ford have a drawing of the hose routing that is available.? A picture is worth 1000's of words. It was suggested i try to make one out of copper. Will this material be compatable with the cooling system.? Any other ideas?
I am told it is very expensive at the Dealer.[/b]
I am sure you have repaired problem long ago on your Taurus. For those that have gen III duratec powered Taurus or Sable this problem is going to happen sooner or later. I felt that all hose and tie strap replacement would work fine on Wife's 97 LS but have gotten 13 years of service from original part made from totally wrong metal for salted roads in state. I decided to replace original part with same. As of March, 2010 best price was found online for Mercury replacement part #8A567 or "water pump inlet hose" also called "coolant tube" at Car Quest. Auto Zone and Car Quest did not carry nor could order this part.Best price found for new tube was 143.30 + low shipping from dealer in RI. Sad that local Ford dealer was usual greedy self and wanted $200.00 + tax for same factory part.
My Son and I working outside in driveway with hand tools, no complete manual and floor jack -- removed right front wheel, inner plastic fender shield, lower splash pan, radiator fan, drained coolant into oil catch container, but only undid not remove serpentine belt and tried to remove old part in one piece. This was first attempt at this for both of us and I felt $15 for instructions online was too much to pay. Could see quickly that belt should have been pulled of car and air conditioning compressor was largest problem to one piece removal of old part. Felt that if wanted to reinstall new part correctly without damage -- we must remove old one in one piece. After removal of compressor mounting bracket bolts and connected tubing clamp from head we spent 45 minutes to remove old inlet hose / tube. New one fit in place with fair movement of engine in its mounts in about 30 minutes. Total time spent was about 5 hours. Replaced all parts in reverse sequence including battery connection that did not mention should be removed also. Coolant that was pouring from Sable was clean as could be. So replaced from overflow tank two bottles ** water wetter, one gallon anti - freeze and top off all as car ran with clean water about 2/3 gallon. I am not sure was better idea to do this in driveway than paying shop do job @2 hours labor + coolant if find shop that is willing to work with persons parts. my 98 Taurus SE (Limited Edition?) is not that bad yet but will be sooner or later for sure. the old tube looked like was salvaged from deck of Titanic. Had no less than ten holes in it and was pure luck it went just withing a day or so of changing oil and filter. Antifreeze level was still up in o f tank. I guess depends on how much you value your hands,fingers,wrists, and back as to wisdom of doing job yourself. With me just matter of being child of 60's living near Telegraph Rd and just having done so much more when things were simpler by far. My son did 90% of work.
Wes B.
98 Taurus SE/LE? Serial number pulls up that read. Duratec 3.0L daily driver.
97 Sable LS duratec and Wifes daily driver.
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Old 09-21-2011, 05:03 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Default "Rubber swedged to steel -"inlet hose"

Labor Day Wkend 2011 -I discovered exactly what hose you are talking about and the troubles it is to find it and get in and change it.
(The hose that goes from the bottom of the water pump to the T'stat.....)A
$400 - 550 job is my neighborhood guess .....based on the blogs on this site, I
DECIDED to risk the pipe replacement method and so far I'm very happy w/the $ I've saved in doing so.

This elusive hose below the water pump goes into a steel tube with a few bends in it....then to the T'stat.....
It gets rusted and spent on a Ford bull 2000 24v DOHC (In the year 2011 mine
began to weep) My ideas in this job are a culmination of this blog and I give full
credit to all who posted.

What happend in my experience is this:

1. Had to take off the apron that covers the lower radiator access. Find Petcock on lower Rt side of Radiator, DRAIN out up to 10 qts .

2. Safely: slightly loosen lugs on pass frnt wheel. -Jack and support on Jack stands
and remove lugs and Pass tire. (Safely: JackUp & Backup…. w/block support)

3. Remove pop outs & screws on plastic wheel well cover (frnt half only)

4. Refer to THIS BLOGs "Rag process" for removal of serp belt.(a great method)

5. Don’t get too discouraged about this part but the reality is that: those hose clamps are a beast to get lose - MOSTLY due to tite access and this could (maybe) be made easier by also removing the Radiator FAN HOUSING- I chose to fight tho...
and this turned into- me getting out my Dremal tool and extension- getting in there "deep and real tite" - Carefully cutting w/cutoff tool attachment - the clamp on the T'Stat side of the old hose pipe........(a real time consumer). I also had to
recip saw the old hose/pipe for ease of getting it out of the very tite area it
routs... another time consumer..
to do this: I looped a rope around the now "disconnected" pipe and pulled it tite
against the wheel well frame while sawing it w/recip saw.....(this, I guess could be
done in other ways including the proper contortion twist to Houdini it out...)

6. Bought one steel spiral ribbed OTC (not OEM) Hose w/1.5" I.D. on both ends, x 22" with three zip ties around the frame isolator (or something), and two worm screw rad hose clamps all totaling about $22.00.

7. "Safely" reinstalled and Zip tied mid-hose away from any possible rubbing
w/serp belt - When done – put on W/well buttons and screws - Safely: hand on lugs on pass wheel- Lower then “Full tighten” lugs. ......Ragged on Serp Belt too.....be sure Rad drain petcock is closed.

8. Fill w/water -check under pressure for leaks- drain out, then-Flush out

w/rad Flush product...Drain...-then: be sure Rad drain petcock is closed. Put on wind apron.

9. Add new coolant @ 60% (6qts Coolant + 4qts water in my case)

10. Drive away w/a smile. Good Luck!

Also:
Since a picture is worth 1000's of words.
SoNic67, WagonFreak & D Man and bigH (senior mems on this site)
show some great photos of this fabricated -rubber swedged to steel -"inlet hose"-


Thanks to all who helped here!
Chas.Youngs
Po'town NY
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