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#1 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Member Number: 10385
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: East Tennessee
Chapter: Southeast
Drives: The 1999 Taurus wagon is back.
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I just thought I'd post this to help anyone who needs help replacing a heater core in a their gen 1 or gen 2 car. I searched and didn't really know the job at hand. YOU MUST DISCHARGE THE A/C!!!
First remove the dash and steering column. There is no quik-disconnect for the dash wiring so everything was unplugged one at a time, meh, I was replacing the dashboard anyway. ![]()
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#2 (permalink) | |
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Junior Member
Member Number: 9959
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QUOTE (major @ May 25 2009, 11:34 PM)
Quote:
you did it a bit different then how i used to do them.. the way I used to do it back when we still had gen 2 cars coming into dealers is I would take the wiring out with the dash.. . you do this by disconnecting all the connectors on the sides and some grounds.. then you take the dash out with the column still attached.
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Mike, Ford master service tech 2003 taurus SE vulcan/AX4N dark shadow grey with dark charcoal cloth |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
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here are a few pictures that i took at the local salvage yard a while back that other people replacing their heater core might find useful.
these pictures are of tauruses & sables but i'm not sure which model years the cars were. the underhood firewall with the engine removed. ![]() ![]() ![]() the interior passenger compartment firewall of the car with the dashboard removed ![]() ![]()
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#4 (permalink) | |
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Junior Member
Member Number: 22730
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QUOTE (major @ May 25 2009, 11:34 PM)
Quote:
Here is an alternate solution for 1985-1996 Taurus heater core replacement that does NOT require removing the dashboard or discharging the AC and takes about 4 hours. I have done this on 3 cars so I know that it works. I have also removed the dashboard and this method is much much easier.[attachment=30795:HEATERCO..._HOUSING.jpg]1. Remove the glove box and heater/AC plastic cover on the bottom to access the unit. Remove all attachments from the heater controls etc. and firewall nut(s) on driver side. 2. Please note that the entire unit is in a thick plastic housing including the heater core and AC and is mounted with through bolts into the engine compartment. Remove the heater hoses and also the retaining nut on the driver side. The passenger side has a nut, loosen it but leave it in place. 3. There is a very small space between the plastic housing and the inside of the firewall if you pry it out gently. In the center of the unit between the AC and heater core (I know - it is invisible inside - go take a look a the junkyard for perspective - you do not want to cut through the middle of the damper door which controls either heater or AC air flow) push a smooth ended wire up from the bottom passenger floor between the housing and the firewall until you can see or feel it come out on the top. Now you have a "path" to do a little Magic. 4. Insert a 1/16" or so steel cable into this path between the housing and firewall, make sure it is about 3 or 4 feet long. 5. Now wrap and secure both ends around something that can be used as a handle. You now have a flexible "saw" that will work just fine at cutting through the plastic housing! With about 3 minutes of sweat you can, by pulling on one end of the cable, then pull back on the other you will have cut through the housing from top to bottom and have separated the heater core (driver's side) from the AC (passenger side). The cable more melts through the plastic than cuts it, but should have weakened it so it will separate. 6. Now the heater core side of the housing is physically separated from the AC, it is unbolted from the engine side. I assume you have removed the remaining nut(s) holding the driver side end of the housing from inside the cabin from the firewall. 7. Wiggle the driver side end of the housing around until it is free and remove. The remaining work is easy, replace the heater core and replace. 8. Seal air leaks from the separated housing with duct tape and reattach all previously detached. This should take about 4 hours plus or minus. |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Devoted Member
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The dash levitation trick has always worked for me. Did it on a G3. From the above write up, it appears that this won't work on earlier models. Thanks to the TCCA for the shortcut. I've often suspected that Dealers charge you the labor for dash removal and then use the same trick. $Ka-Ching$!
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#6 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
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ok I am about ready to do my cut but I don't really know where to do it. I'm scared I might mess it up. I am working on a 93 and things look a little different while they are tucked under my half removed dash. I'll let you know how it turns out. Oh another thing is I am gonna have a hell of a time trying to duct tape on the back of this by the firewall
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#7 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
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I found this online for Gen II Tauras's for replacing the heater core without removing the dashboard. Have not tried it myself so I cannot say it works here is the link.
http://www.airsept.com/Articles/Recy...cs_SR03.03.pdf It looks like it is doable if anyone tries it with success let me know. Good Luck!! |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Member
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It looks like one HELLISH nightmare! I hop I'm dreamin' when I'm confronted with this problem.
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#9 (permalink) |
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Crazy Devoted Member
Member Number: 113
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wheels, that is for 96 and newer.
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#10 (permalink) |
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Member
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Youtube Taurus heater core shortcut.
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