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Old 01-25-2009, 03:38 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Synthetic at most will get 1 MPG better unless the old oil was as thick as molasses. I'm not saying don't switch to synthetic because it is much better than conventional. I'm just saying that it won't result in a huge difference in gas mileage.
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Old 01-25-2009, 03:49 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Synthetic at most will get 1 MPG better unless the old oil was as thick as molasses. I'm not saying don't switch to synthetic because it is much better than conventional. I'm just saying that it won't result in a huge difference in gas mileage.
[/b]
True......Just thinking of any way to boost that mileage.
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Old 01-25-2009, 04:57 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I just had the same problem with my 95 sable. It was burning alot of gas... I took it in for an Anchorage Emissions test and it got .6(the max is .5) on the co but the Check Engine Light wasnt on... I replace the 02 sensors and it passed with flying colors... Since you already swaped the filters, Id go ahead and swap the 02s. They are about 50 dollars each and will come off with a wrench...
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Old 01-27-2009, 01:56 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Alright so i called my local mechanic about it that does all of my work and he said that the reason for the low mileage is probably a combination of the really cold temperatures around here, short trips that i take and the gas being a winter mix. Does that seem reasonable for getting about 13mpg? i do usually only go on short strips to school and back and work and back which are both very close to me and its very cold in the mornings.
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Old 01-27-2009, 02:43 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Could be. But your original post said it has been bad since Sept.
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Old 01-27-2009, 03:22 PM   #16 (permalink)
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How short is short? How long are you letting it warm up in the morning? Where are you getting your gas from?

I had a '95 Sable and I drove 2 miles to school and 2 miles home during the winter in high school. The speed limit was 25 MPH in town, and I hit one stop light and a couple stop signs. Add oxygenated fuel from California and that would be pretty hard on gas mileage. I never got below 17 MPG with the bigger engine (3.8L). My Duratec Taurus is a heavier car than the Sable and it still gets better gas mileage even when I'm not driving ideally.
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Old 01-27-2009, 03:45 PM   #17 (permalink)
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I never checked my actual mileage until around december but it just seemed bad before. And the drives are pretty short, around a couple miles to school but i was told that engines use gas alot differently when the temperature is very cold and you don't heat up the car. I'll probably just take it in anyway to see if there is anything wrong that could help me get it better.
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Old 01-27-2009, 04:06 PM   #18 (permalink)
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The engine is warmed up within 5 minutes of driving. It will use more gas until it's warmed up though. Using the defroster or any settings other than Off and Vent will run the A/C compressor.
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Old 01-27-2009, 05:55 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Things that decrease fuel economy:

poor wheel alignment / tire scrubbing / bent frame from collision damage
dragging brakes
cold engine / stuck (or cold) thermostat
torque converter not locking up
weak ignition / bad plugs, wires, coils
bad engine sensors...O2, coolant temp, manifold pressure, intake air temp, mass airflow, etc.
plugged catalytic converters
leaky or dirty fuel injectors (or leaky fuel lines or fuel tank)
low tire pressure
tires with high rolling resistance / excessively wide tires
aerodynamic drag...lost belly trays, added bug deflectors, inappropriate (aftermarket especially) spoilers, etc.; also aerodynamic drag increases with the square of the speed IIRC...keep speeds reasonable

poor driving habits...either too aggressive or driving like a grandma...gasoline engines have incresed friction with increasing rpm (increases geometricly) and also have increased pumping losses when accelerating with a narrow throttle opening...the trick is to use moderate to large throttle openings and shift at lower rpms...you also want the torque converter to lock up early to aviod energy losses from an unlocked torque converter

also don't carry so many dead hookers in the trunk...added weight cuts into fuel economy
alcohol fuels
cold temperatures

I must be forgetting something, but that is the short list

p.s.: poor compression can play hell with gas mileage...I've been using auto-rx to get rid of sludge and varnish in my vehicles...it also works to help restore lost compression if the rings are sticking... you can check out product discussions at bobistheoilguy.com...the product is available through auto-rx.com...I'm not affiliated with the company, but their product has given excellent results in my vehicles

intake or exhaust manifold air leaks can also cause poor mileage...O2 sensors read lean and tell computer to add more fuel
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Old 01-27-2009, 07:57 PM   #20 (permalink)
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bad shifts can be caused by deposits causing parts to move less freely than they should...auto-rx sometimes can restore smooth shifts...depends on if transmission is simply dirty or whether parts are actually broken

my 2003 Taurus SES with the Vulcan engine sometimes had harsh shiftswhen we got the car...1000 miles with 6 ounces of auto-rx in the transmission completely cured bad shifts (it actually only took a couple of hundred miles)
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