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Tips On How To Remove A/c Compressor Clutch

150K views 78 replies 43 participants last post by  Derrick2001 
#1 ·
I'm a newbie here. Just found this forum and it has a lot of great info.
I need to swap my a/c compressor clutch assembly including the pulley and coil.
I got in there but for the life of me I can't figure out how to do it without taking the compressor out.
I'd like to avoid that if possible so that I don't have to get the system vacuumed and recharged.
Do you know where I can find directions? Thanks.
 
#3 ·
Remove the Negative battery cable.
Raise the car and support the car on jack stands. Just to the rear of the rear sub-frame mounts there are"rails" under the car, put the stands there as you will be dropping the sub-frame.
Disconnect the dog bone dampener.
Remove the serpentine belt.
Remove the right front wheel/tire assembly.
Disconnect the right side end link from either end, complete removal is NOT necessary.
Remove the right side strut pinch bolt.
Remove the little bolt that holds the brake line to the strut. 10mm I believe.
Place your jack under the passenger's side of the sub-frame near the control arm.
Remove the two sub-frame bolts on that side.
Lower the jack, slowly, to a position that you can see the A/C clutch.
It may be necessary to remove the front sub-frame bolt on the driver's side, but the last 3 vehicles I've done it wasn't necessary.
After you've got the cradle dropped, you should see the center bolt for the clutch. 8mm IIRC. Remove it and the front plate should come off with a little help of a screw driver and wiggling it a bit.
Behind that there is a snap ring, you'll need snap ring pliers to get it off, then you can remove the pulley. The last part is the coil, unplug it carefully, as I've seen people yank out the wire and mess up the plug. Then with a small hammer or a couple of screwdrivers, either pry the coil off, or knock it off by hitting it on two different sides alternately.
To reinstall the coil, you'll need a piece of 2x4 or something to cover the "face" of the coil to knock(press) it back on. From there install everything in reverse order that it came off.

You shouldn't need to realign the car, at least none of the ones I've done haven't needed it, but it would be a good idea to have it realigned if it has not been done with in a year.

Good luck, Rudy.
 
#39 ·
Question for 'Rudy'



I am new to this board so bear with me. I am in the midst of an AC clutch change based on your original post. How low must you lower the frame/engine? Is there any concern about hoses or other items attached to both engine and 'stationary' body? I don't want to damage anything. Thanks for your original post and thanks in advance for any help. John
 
#6 ·
Thanks rudedog.
I remember reading about having to set up some shims to keep the gap between the hub and the pulley. Is there a specific procedure for that?
As soon as we get a day above 32 degrees I am going to tackle this.
 
#7 ·
Basically if there was a shim in the old unit use it first. Torque the center bolt, then measure the gap in three places around the circumference of the unit. If it's too little or too large, then grab another shim. Do this till you get the needed gap. ***Shims should come with the new clutch face if they don't you'll definitely need to get them.***
 
#9 ·
alright guys...I am here with my chilton and unfortunately there is no mention of the gap. I am tackling this tomorrow. The motorcraft hub came with no shims. Is there a specific value for the gap between the hub and the pulley? I just don't want to go thru putting everything back together just to find out I screwed it up.
Can I just bolt the hub on the pulley with nothing inbetween?
 
#11 ·
There are five shims (three different sizes) in a shim set. You can't buy one shim, only sets. The shims are machining to close tolerances and not cheap. A set of shims was about $25 from Ford last time I checked, so don't lose any. All five shims are on each ac compressor when they come from Ford. Replacement ac clutches do not come from Ford with shims, the shim set is sold separately.

The shims that affect the magnetic plate clearance are located between the center bolt on the magnetic plate and the clutch pulley. The spare shims are located on the same center bolt on the magnetic plate, between the head of the bolt and the top of the magnetic plate.

You need a tool to hold the magnetic plate when loosening or tightening the senter bolt. I made one for myself from a piece of scrap aluminum, but you can probably borrow one for free from a Auto Parts Store with a Free Tool Loan Program (autozone, kragen, o'rilleys, etc). Do not try removing the center bolt without the tool as you can ruin the magnetic plate. You will also need a good torque wrench with the correct
operating range.

You have to be careful when you remove the center bolt when removing the magnetic plate. Loosen the bolt then rattle it, before removing, and tip the head of the bolt down so the shims will not fall off. Then immediately check the depression on the magnetic plate to see if any of the spares are sitting up there.

The compressor needs to come out of the car to do a decent job of measuring and setting the magnetic plate clearance. On a Vulcan engine (at least on my old Gen.I and my current Gen.III, you do not need to remove or loosen any of the engine mounts or subframe bolts to get the compressor out. From under the car you reach the compressor and slide it out across the front (it's tight,but it can be done) of the starter motor after removing the hoses (disconnect the battery before starting for job). Don't lay under the car when discharging the refrigerant (refrigerant is heavier than air and you could suffocate), and don't do this in an enclosed space for the same reason.

If you caught the failing ac pulley bearing when the symptoms first appeared, you might get lucky and not need to replace the clutch coil. If you have local access to new parts, don't order the parts ahead of time, you may be able to get away with just the ac clutch pulley. But check the price of parts, sometimes it's cheaper to buy the clutch set (pulley, plate, and clutch coil) then a single separate part, and sometimes you can get a rebuilt compressor with the clutch and a lifetime warranty for less than the cltch set alone.

So, when you have your compressor with the clutch coil installed (make sure it's fully seated), you drop the pulley on, then the magnetic plate. Hold the plate with the tool, and torque to spec. The bolt must be torqued to spec before you read the magnetic plate clearance. Check the clearance in at least three spaces.

You read the magnetic plate clearance, and if not in spec, calculate how much you need to increase or decrease the clearance, and figure out the correct shims to add or subtract from behind the magnetic plate to correct the clearace. Remember to place the spare shims back on the head of the bolt before placing the shims needed behind the magnetic plate, and retorquing to check the magnetic plate clearance again.

This process is repeated until the clearance is acceptable. I like to go on the tight side, figuring that the clearance will open with time and wear. I aim for 0.17"-.019".
 
#12 ·
well, I took the old pulley off yesterday. The bearing was shot, half way melted and with only 4 balls left in it :eek: The coil was also literally cooked. Luckily no leaks around the shaft and no play.
I wish I knew about the shims ahead of time....god knows where they are now. I put the whole thing back together and of course the a/c clutch is always engaged. So I sent the wife to Ford today to get shims and they gave her the wrong part (a/c seal kit). So I am off to Ford again tomorrow.
Do you know the torque spec for the center bolt? chilton doesn't say. Also, I am going to try to keep the compressor on the car. What do you use to measure such a small gap?
Thanks!
 
#15 ·
You can buy a Genuine Ford Service Cd or DVD from numerous eBay Sellers for less than $15, including the shipping.

There will always be lots for sale because of the number of people with Subscriptions to the Service Manual Publisher, who get several updated discs a year.
 
#16 ·
Mission accomplished! Everything is running perfectly. Thanks for all your help guys.
Just a couple of tips for whomever is going to attempt this next.

1-Make sure the coil is fully seated on the compressor all around
2-make sure the gap between the clutch and pulley is even all around (if it's not, the coil is not seating properly)
3-It's probably more cost and time effective in the long run to just get a new compressor, unless your car/system is fairly new. It costed me about $90 in Motorcraft parts +$25 in new tools (feeler gauge and snap ring pliers)

I attached a picture of the removed parts. Notice how the rubber shocks on the clutch are gone :blink:
 

Attachments

#19 ·
QUOTE (2vmodular @ Apr 20 2009, 07:55 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=719180
that clutch got really hot. does the front shaft seal still seal good.

[/b]
yep, to my surprise it still does seal well. It's been a couple of months now and everything works great. I can't believe how cold the air is in this car. I was debating whether I should get a flush and tune up at an a/c shop since it's never been done. On the other hand...don't fix it if it ain't broke...
 
#20 ·
QUOTE (rudedog @ Jan 17 2009, 04:11 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=693365
Remove the Negative battery cable.
Raise the car and support the car on jack stands. Just to the rear of the rear sub-frame mounts there are"rails" under the car, put the stands there as you will be dropping the sub-frame.
Disconnect the dog bone dampener.
Remove the serpentine belt.
Remove the right front wheel/tire assembly.
Disconnect the right side end link from either end, complete removal is NOT necessary.
Remove the right side strut pinch bolt.
Remove the little bolt that holds the brake line to the strut. 10mm I believe.
Place your jack under the passenger's side of the sub-frame near the control arm.
Remove the two sub-frame bolts on that side.
Lower the jack, slowly, to a position that you can see the A/C clutch.
It may be necessary to remove the front sub-frame bolt on the driver's side, but the last 3 vehicles I've done it wasn't necessary.
After you've got the cradle dropped, you should see the center bolt for the clutch. 8mm IIRC. Remove it and the front plate should come off with a little help of a screw driver and wiggling it a bit.
Behind that there is a snap ring, you'll need snap ring pliers to get it off, then you can remove the pulley. The last part is the coil, unplug it carefully, as I've seen people yank out the wire and mess up the plug. Then with a small hammer or a couple of screwdrivers, either pry the coil off, or knock it off by hitting it on two different sides alternately.
To reinstall the coil, you'll need a piece of 2x4 or something to cover the "face" of the coil to knock(press) it back on. From there install everything in reverse order that it came off.

You shouldn't need to realign the car, at least none of the ones I've done haven't needed it, but it would be a good idea to have it realigned if it has not been done with in a year.

Good luck, Rudy.[/b]
To Rudy,

I've been told by a AC shop that I need to re-gap the clutch on my '92 AC Compressor, and want to do-it-myself without removing the compressor (R12 refill is well over $300 & R134 conversion and flush is not less). In your explanation of "dropping the sub-frame," is there some diagram (or reference) to which I can refer to know the location of the items to which you refer--I'm unsure of the location of these items:
1) "Dog-bone dampener?"
2) "Right side end link?"
3) "Right side strut pinch bolt?"

Also (seeing one of the below posts), can I just remove the center bolt, or do I need a special tool to hold the clutch plate while loosening the bolt? If the latter, where does one acquire that tool, or do I have to make it, as the post suggests?

Marcharino
 
#21 ·
QUOTE (gohim @ Feb 2 2009, 02:58 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=698215
There are five shims (three different sizes) in a shim set. You can't buy one shim, only sets. The shims are machining to close tolerances and not cheap. A set of shims was about $25 from Ford last time I checked, so don't lose any. All five shims are on each ac compressor when they come from Ford. Replacement ac clutches do not come from Ford with shims, the shim set is sold separately.

The shims that affect the magnetic plate clearance are located between the center bolt on the magnetic plate and the clutch pulley. The spare shims are located on the same center bolt on the magnetic plate, between the head of the bolt and the top of the magnetic plate.

You need a tool to hold the magnetic plate when loosening or tightening the senter bolt. I made one for myself from a piece of scrap aluminum, but you can probably borrow one for free from a Auto Parts Store with a Free Tool Loan Program (autozone, kragen, o'rilleys, etc). Do not try removing the center bolt without the tool as you can ruin the magnetic plate. You will also need a good torque wrench with the correct
operating range.

You have to be careful when you remove the center bolt when removing the magnetic plate. Loosen the bolt then rattle it, before removing, and tip the head of the bolt down so the shims will not fall off. Then immediately check the depression on the magnetic plate to see if any of the spares are sitting up there.

The compressor needs to come out of the car to do a decent job of measuring and setting the magnetic plate clearance. On a Vulcan engine (at least on my old Gen.I and my current Gen.III, you do not need to remove or loosen any of the engine mounts or subframe bolts to get the compressor out. From under the car you reach the compressor and slide it out across the front (it's tight,but it can be done) of the starter motor after removing the hoses (disconnect the battery before starting for job). Don't lay under the car when discharging the refrigerant (refrigerant is heavier than air and you could suffocate), and don't do this in an enclosed space for the same reason.

If you caught the failing ac pulley bearing when the symptoms first appeared, you might get lucky and not need to replace the clutch coil. If you have local access to new parts, don't order the parts ahead of time, you may be able to get away with just the ac clutch pulley. But check the price of parts, sometimes it's cheaper to buy the clutch set (pulley, plate, and clutch coil) then a single separate part, and sometimes you can get a rebuilt compressor with the clutch and a lifetime warranty for less than the cltch set alone.

So, when you have your compressor with the clutch coil installed (make sure it's fully seated), you drop the pulley on, then the magnetic plate. Hold the plate with the tool, and torque to spec. The bolt must be torqued to spec before you read the magnetic plate clearance. Check the clearance in at least three spaces.

You read the magnetic plate clearance, and if not in spec, calculate how much you need to increase or decrease the clearance, and figure out the correct shims to add or subtract from behind the magnetic plate to correct the clearace. Remember to place the spare shims back on the head of the bolt before placing the shims needed behind the magnetic plate, and retorquing to check the magnetic plate clearance again.

This process is repeated until the clearance is acceptable. I like to go on the tight side, figuring that the clearance will open with time and wear. I aim for 0.17"-.019".[/b]
To Gohim,

You mention that you need to either make or rent a tool to hold the magnetic plate when loosening / tightening the center bolt... can you tell me how you made it? Do you know if Motorcraft makes one, or which parts store carries it? Your help would be appreciated.

Marcharino
 
#23 ·
QUOTE (Marcharino @ Jul 22 2009, 02:30 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=741267
QUOTE (gohim @ Feb 2 2009, 02:58 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=698215
There are five shims (three different sizes) in a shim set. You can't buy one shim, only sets. The shims are machining to close tolerances and not cheap. A set of shims was about $25 from Ford last time I checked, so don't lose any. All five shims are on each ac compressor when they come from Ford. Replacement ac clutches do not come from Ford with shims, the shim set is sold separately.

The shims that affect the magnetic plate clearance are located between the center bolt on the magnetic plate and the clutch pulley. The spare shims are located on the same center bolt on the magnetic plate, between the head of the bolt and the top of the magnetic plate.

You need a tool to hold the magnetic plate when loosening or tightening the senter bolt. I made one for myself from a piece of scrap aluminum, but you can probably borrow one for free from a Auto Parts Store with a Free Tool Loan Program (autozone, kragen, o'rilleys, etc). Do not try removing the center bolt without the tool as you can ruin the magnetic plate. You will also need a good torque wrench with the correct
operating range.

You have to be careful when you remove the center bolt when removing the magnetic plate. Loosen the bolt then rattle it, before removing, and tip the head of the bolt down so the shims will not fall off. Then immediately check the depression on the magnetic plate to see if any of the spares are sitting up there.

The compressor needs to come out of the car to do a decent job of measuring and setting the magnetic plate clearance. On a Vulcan engine (at least on my old Gen.I and my current Gen.III, you do not need to remove or loosen any of the engine mounts or subframe bolts to get the compressor out. From under the car you reach the compressor and slide it out across the front (it's tight,but it can be done) of the starter motor after removing the hoses (disconnect the battery before starting for job). Don't lay under the car when discharging the refrigerant (refrigerant is heavier than air and you could suffocate), and don't do this in an enclosed space for the same reason.

If you caught the failing ac pulley bearing when the symptoms first appeared, you might get lucky and not need to replace the clutch coil. If you have local access to new parts, don't order the parts ahead of time, you may be able to get away with just the ac clutch pulley. But check the price of parts, sometimes it's cheaper to buy the clutch set (pulley, plate, and clutch coil) then a single separate part, and sometimes you can get a rebuilt compressor with the clutch and a lifetime warranty for less than the cltch set alone.

So, when you have your compressor with the clutch coil installed (make sure it's fully seated), you drop the pulley on, then the magnetic plate. Hold the plate with the tool, and torque to spec. The bolt must be torqued to spec before you read the magnetic plate clearance. Check the clearance in at least three spaces.

You read the magnetic plate clearance, and if not in spec, calculate how much you need to increase or decrease the clearance, and figure out the correct shims to add or subtract from behind the magnetic plate to correct the clearace. Remember to place the spare shims back on the head of the bolt before placing the shims needed behind the magnetic plate, and retorquing to check the magnetic plate clearance again.

This process is repeated until the clearance is acceptable. I like to go on the tight side, figuring that the clearance will open with time and wear. I aim for 0.17"-.019".[/b]
To Gohim,

You mention that you need to either make or rent a tool to hold the magnetic plate when loosening / tightening the center bolt... can you tell me how you made it? Do you know if Motorcraft makes one, or which parts store carries it? Your help would be appreciated.

Marcharino
[/b][/quote]

I started with a scrap piece of aluminum (the easiest metal to work with) the same width as the magnetic clutch plate. I cut out three holes in the same pattern, the same diameter as the three rubber knobs, then another hole in the center of the plate as an access hole to the center mounting bolt for the magnetic clutch plate. Then to finish, I cut out a 3/8" square hole so I can attach a 3/8" breaker bar as a handle.
 
#24 ·
QUOTE (Pepper @ Jul 22 2009, 05:42 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=741291
how do you know if you need to replace the clutch assembly and not the compressor?? im obviously no mechanic. my a/c is not kicking on.[/b]
Use Digital VOM (volt ohm miliameter) to check the clutch coil and make sure that it is not open, or shorted (impedence spec is in the Ford Factory Manual). If shorted or open, then the coil is no good.

Then remove the ac clutch pulley, and check for physical damage. If you ran the clutch pulley till it seized, then the coil will be damaged. If you caught the problem, as soon as the pulley started to wobble, then the coil may still be good.

The front seal of the compressor can replaced easily at very little cost if it's leaking.
 
#25 ·
QUOTE (Marcharino @ Jul 22 2009, 02:21 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=741261
QUOTE (rudedog @ Jan 17 2009, 04:11 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=693365
Remove the Negative battery cable.
Raise the car and support the car on jack stands. Just to the rear of the rear sub-frame mounts there are"rails" under the car, put the stands there as you will be dropping the sub-frame.
Disconnect the dog bone dampener.
Remove the serpentine belt.
Remove the right front wheel/tire assembly.
Disconnect the right side end link from either end, complete removal is NOT necessary.
Remove the right side strut pinch bolt.
Remove the little bolt that holds the brake line to the strut. 10mm I believe.
Place your jack under the passenger's side of the sub-frame near the control arm.
Remove the two sub-frame bolts on that side.
Lower the jack, slowly, to a position that you can see the A/C clutch.
It may be necessary to remove the front sub-frame bolt on the driver's side, but the last 3 vehicles I've done it wasn't necessary.
After you've got the cradle dropped, you should see the center bolt for the clutch. 8mm IIRC. Remove it and the front plate should come off with a little help of a screw driver and wiggling it a bit.
Behind that there is a snap ring, you'll need snap ring pliers to get it off, then you can remove the pulley. The last part is the coil, unplug it carefully, as I've seen people yank out the wire and mess up the plug. Then with a small hammer or a couple of screwdrivers, either pry the coil off, or knock it off by hitting it on two different sides alternately.
To reinstall the coil, you'll need a piece of 2x4 or something to cover the "face" of the coil to knock(press) it back on. From there install everything in reverse order that it came off.

You shouldn't need to realign the car, at least none of the ones I've done haven't needed it, but it would be a good idea to have it realigned if it has not been done with in a year.

Good luck, Rudy.[/b]
To Rudy,

I've been told by a AC shop that I need to re-gap the clutch on my '92 AC Compressor, and want to do-it-myself without removing the compressor (R12 refill is well over $300 & R134 conversion and flush is not less). In your explanation of "dropping the sub-frame," is there some diagram (or reference) to which I can refer to know the location of the items to which you refer--I'm unsure of the location of these items:
1) "Dog-bone dampener?"
2) "Right side end link?"
3) "Right side strut pinch bolt?"

Also (seeing one of the below posts), can I just remove the center bolt, or do I need a special tool to hold the clutch plate while loosening the bolt? If the latter, where does one acquire that tool, or do I have to make it, as the post suggests?

Marcharino
[/b][/quote]
I started yesterday doing this project on my 1998 DOHC Taurus. There are additional things to do.
Disconnect both battery cables.
Disconnect the Air Box.
Remove all subframe mount bolts.
Remove the upper water hose from water pump.
remove 2 mount bolts holding the expansion bottle to fender.
Remove vacuum hose from back of engine to vacuum module on firewall.

Pay close attention to the AC flex line that runs from the expansion bottle to AC compressor.
I had to leverage the motor to the left to get the AC Clutch assy to gain clearance.
I only found one tiny shim, none behind the center bolt. You can get a shim kit with C clip and bolt
from Advance Auto Parts (#24187 $17).
My magnetic coil is in good shape. The face of the Pulley and Clutch are chewed up.
Something was making a terrible squeal, so I'm replacing the 2 outside pieces.
This is a good time to replace the Idler pulley and water pump.
And the additional 5" drop gives plenty of room to replace the Struts.
I may see if I can get the back exhaust pipe bolts off the backside manifold
so I can remove my LEAKING Oil Pan (for 2 years).
Doing the work myself saves lots of money. I've been unemployed since February.
 
#26 ·
QUOTE (dave92 @ Aug 9 2009, 02:16 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=745409
QUOTE (Marcharino @ Jul 22 2009, 02:21 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=741261
QUOTE (rudedog @ Jan 17 2009, 04:11 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=693365
Remove the Negative battery cable.
Raise the car and support the car on jack stands. Just to the rear of the rear sub-frame mounts there are"rails" under the car, put the stands there as you will be dropping the sub-frame.
Disconnect the dog bone dampener.
Remove the serpentine belt.
Remove the right front wheel/tire assembly.
Disconnect the right side end link from either end, complete removal is NOT necessary.
Remove the right side strut pinch bolt.
Remove the little bolt that holds the brake line to the strut. 10mm I believe.
Place your jack under the passenger's side of the sub-frame near the control arm.
Remove the two sub-frame bolts on that side.
Lower the jack, slowly, to a position that you can see the A/C clutch.
It may be necessary to remove the front sub-frame bolt on the driver's side, but the last 3 vehicles I've done it wasn't necessary.
After you've got the cradle dropped, you should see the center bolt for the clutch. 8mm IIRC. Remove it and the front plate should come off with a little help of a screw driver and wiggling it a bit.
Behind that there is a snap ring, you'll need snap ring pliers to get it off, then you can remove the pulley. The last part is the coil, unplug it carefully, as I've seen people yank out the wire and mess up the plug. Then with a small hammer or a couple of screwdrivers, either pry the coil off, or knock it off by hitting it on two different sides alternately.
To reinstall the coil, you'll need a piece of 2x4 or something to cover the "face" of the coil to knock(press) it back on. From there install everything in reverse order that it came off.

You shouldn't need to realign the car, at least none of the ones I've done haven't needed it, but it would be a good idea to have it realigned if it has not been done with in a year.

Good luck, Rudy.[/b]
To Rudy,

I've been told by a AC shop that I need to re-gap the clutch on my '92 AC Compressor, and want to do-it-myself without removing the compressor (R12 refill is well over $300 & R134 conversion and flush is not less). In your explanation of "dropping the sub-frame," is there some diagram (or reference) to which I can refer to know the location of the items to which you refer--I'm unsure of the location of these items:
1) "Dog-bone dampener?"
2) "Right side end link?"
3) "Right side strut pinch bolt?"

Also (seeing one of the below posts), can I just remove the center bolt, or do I need a special tool to hold the clutch plate while loosening the bolt? If the latter, where does one acquire that tool, or do I have to make it, as the post suggests?

Marcharino
[/b][/quote]
I started yesterday doing this project on my 1998 DOHC Taurus. There are additional things to do.
Disconnect both battery cables.
Disconnect the Air Box.
Remove all subframe mount bolts.
Remove the upper water hose from water pump.
remove 2 mount bolts holding the expansion bottle to fender.
Remove vacuum hose from back of engine to vacuum module on firewall.

Pay close attention to the AC flex line that runs from the expansion bottle to AC compressor.
I had to leverage the motor to the left to get the AC Clutch assy to gain clearance.
I only found one tiny shim, none behind the center bolt. You can get a shim kit with C clip and bolt
from Advance Auto Parts (#24187 $17).
My magnetic coil is in good shape. The face of the Pulley and Clutch are chewed up.
Something was making a terrible squeal, so I'm replacing the 2 outside pieces.
This is a good time to replace the Idler pulley and water pump.
And the additional 5" drop gives plenty of room to replace the Struts.
I may see if I can get the back exhaust pipe bolts off the backside manifold
so I can remove my LEAKING Oil Pan (for 2 years).
Doing the work myself saves lots of money. I've been unemployed since February.
[/b][/quote]

I found the front subframe bolts eaten away by Mag/Chloride. If you live in the Snow Belt check the front subframe mounts.
 

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