Lifters - Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-17-2008, 05:32 PM Thread Starter
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Hi all

New guy here with a 99 Taurus 180k miles and was running great till it started ticking.

First thought was a lifter, luckily on the front bank. Pulled the valve cover and went straight to the noise, #4 exhaust. I applied a bit of pressure and it seemed to quiet down, confirming my thought of the lifter.

After removing the mess around the intake and ultimately the intake itself I loosened the rocker and found the lifter appeared to be collapsed.

I removed the lifter and whilst holding it upside down, the piston came to the top. Right side up it dropped back down, about 1/8".

I pulled the intake lifter out and did the same, it didn't move. I applied pressure to it and still couldn't get it to go in. I figured it must be good.

I proceeded to check the rest of the lifters and found the exhaust lifter for #1 to be bad, like the #4.

Being broke and needing the car I figured I'd replace just the 2 lifters for now and ordered them.

While waiting on the new lifters to come in I got curious, what went bad? I removed the retainer spring and out dropped the piston, that's it I thought? No spring, no valving, nothing.

So the new lifters came in and I had to know. Took one apart and there was the spring, valve plate, etc. looked right to me.

So now I'm thinking I got the wrong lifter cause the factory lifters are different. I called the dealer and there is only one type of lifter for this engine, due to it being a high rev engine they don't have the spring type hydraulic lifters I was told, the spring type won't handle the abuse.

Do ya'll think I'd be okay to use the after market lifters for now till I can do a complete overhaul?

And how do ya prime a lifter with no spring tension?
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-17-2008, 09:36 PM
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Um, AFAIK, all hydraulic lifters have a spring in them. I'm not sure why yours didn't, unless the springs broke and got mashed up.

Anyway, to prime them, you can soak them in clean oil, and if you want, you can depress the piston a few times until no more bubbles come out... then you know it's full of oil. You should be fine to leave them in there as long as you want.

I have a tendancy to wear my mind on my sleeve. I have a history of losing my shirt.

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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-18-2008, 12:28 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Um, AFAIK, all hydraulic lifters have a spring in them. I'm not sure why yours didn't, unless the springs broke and got mashed up.

Anyway, to prime them, you can soak them in clean oil, and if you want, you can depress the piston a few times until no more bubbles come out... then you know it's full of oil. You should be fine to leave them in there as long as you want.
[/b]
Not sure what "AFAIK" means but I was a bit baffled myself. I did take apart a couple more to be sure and no spring under the piston, still baffled.

Was hoping someone here may have had one apart and know how to prime this non spring type, never
seen one before.

Thanks for the reply!
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-18-2008, 12:37 AM
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AFAIK=As far as I know

A little left of center.... ( - _ - )
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-19-2008, 09:04 AM Thread Starter
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I guess there's an acronym for everything theses days

Well, with a bit more persistence I discovered that all my lifters were more or less seized.
I was expecting the spring and valve to be right there under the seat for the push rods, not so with these.

And the dealer was no help in describing the design either. Of course there is a spring in there, how else would they work? I feel so silly

It sure took some time to get these things cleaned up but I'm saving over $264.00, well -$22.00 to replace one that I broke

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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-23-2008, 11:03 PM Thread Starter
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Update:

I got things back together and the all seems okay, except for the white smoke.

I used Fel-Pro gasket set, and made sure all surfaces were clean, never broke the heads loose.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't white smoke indicate a water leak to the cylinders?
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-26-2008, 08:06 AM Thread Starter
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Anyone here ever have trouble with reinstalling they're intake manifold?
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-26-2008, 08:11 AM
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Quote:
Update:

I got things back together and the all seems okay, except for the white smoke.

I used Fel-Pro gasket set, and made sure all surfaces were clean, never broke the heads loose.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't white smoke indicate a water leak to the cylinders? [/b]
White smoke is water vapor; smell the smoke to see if it's coolant or just condensation burning off. Burnt coolant smells sweet because of the glycol.

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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-26-2008, 08:51 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the suggestion, and I did do that, guess my sniffer ain't what it used to be.

I put about 20 miles on after the recondition, I did notice that it takes a couple minutes for the smoke to appear after starting.

My thought was perhaps I should have used a sealer around the water ports, but the old gaskets didn't have any so I figured I was okay. Also, the manual doesn't suggest it either.

Any ideas?
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-26-2008, 10:24 AM
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If the Fel-Pro gaskets had molded O-rings around the water ports then you are fine without RTV. I like to use RTV whether recommended or not around water/oil ports if there are no raised silicone O-rings on the gasket.

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