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Old 10-15-2008, 12:02 PM   #1 (permalink)
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So I just wanted to say thank you TCCA for the write ups found throughout this forum on how to do a proper Heater Core flush.

The water pump just went after having the car for 64,000 miles (Just turned 127,500). I took it to a new mechanic which did the job of replacing the reservoir tank (that cracked as well), water pump, and coolant flush for relatively cheap.

He told me that he back flushed it, but I still had no heat. I tested the inlet/outlet lines and one wasn't as hot as the other, so I knew that the core was still clogged.

I bought the garden hose repair kits and preceded to hook them up to the inlet/outlet heater lines. I pinched off the bypass, which is something that I'm sure the other mechanics never did, and forced the water through the core. A good amount of crap came out. I did this several times, including pulling the garden hose off and blowing through the core.

To wrap this up, I now have heat (for the 2 weeks that we'll need it in FL) and feel very accomplished. The coolant tank isn't a pretty green anymore, which obviously is due to some rust still being in the system, but I think it's good enough for now.

Thanks again TCCA!

**EDIT**
A couple of things to note that I didn't find in the write ups.
1) Make sure to have extra coolant. When you remove the hose that is connected to the waterpump, you are going to loose about 1/2 a gallon of coolant due to the fact that the reservoir is above the water pump (ie gravity tries to equalize the pressure).
2) when trying to confirm if indeed the heater core is having water run through it, pulse the water (I just pinched the garden hose off and then opened it up) and try to feel/pinch the hoses coming from the firewall that connect to the core.
3) make sure you have needle nose vice grips. I tried to clamp off the bypass hose by holding tightly a pair of pliers, but I couldn't clamp the bypass tight enough to force the water into the core.
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Old 10-15-2008, 12:33 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Good to hear you were successful.

I would continue to flush out the coolant until there is no rust at all. You don't want any of that in there.
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Old 10-15-2008, 01:45 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Good to hear you were successful.

I would continue to flush out the coolant until there is no rust at all. You don't want any of that in there.
[/b]

Is there an efficient way to do this without removing too many parts?
What would you all suggest?
thanks again.
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Old 10-15-2008, 01:59 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Get some citric acid based cleaner, 5 gallons of distilled water and two gallons of 100% antifreeze.

Then drain the coolant. This is easiest done at the lower radiator hose where the 1" hose from the tank tees into it on the passenger side. You do not need to take off the plastic shield.

Fill the system with first the cleaner then straight tap water. Drive around for a while, 20 minutes to 2 days depends on how you feel about it.

Then drain the water and cleaner out. Fill with tap water and idle the engine for 20 minutes making sure the thermostat is opening. Feel the upper radiator hose and see if it is too hot to hold.

Then drain the water again and fill with distilled water. Idle engine for 20 minutes again making sure the t-stat is opening.

Then drain the distilled water. First pour in one gallon of the 100% antifreeze. Then cut the second gallon to a 50/50 mix using the distilled water and top off the system with this. Be sure to completely fill the tank and to check it again for the next couple of days when it's cold. Keep the tank as full as possible.
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Old 10-15-2008, 09:42 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Get some citric acid based cleaner, 5 gallons of distilled water and two gallons of 100% antifreeze.

Then drain the coolant. This is easiest done at the lower radiator hose where the 1" hose from the tank tees into it on the passenger side. You do not need to take off the plastic shield.

Fill the system with first the cleaner then straight tap water. Drive around for a while, 20 minutes to 2 days depends on how you feel about it.

Then drain the water and cleaner out. Fill with tap water and idle the engine for 20 minutes making sure the thermostat is opening. Feel the upper radiator hose and see if it is too hot to hold.

Then drain the water again and fill with distilled water. Idle engine for 20 minutes again making sure the t-stat is opening.

Then drain the distilled water. First pour in one gallon of the 100% antifreeze. Then cut the second gallon to a 50/50 mix using the distilled water and top off the system with this. Be sure to completely fill the tank and to check it again for the next couple of days when it's cold. Keep the tank as full as possible.
[/b]

2 questions and 1 comment:

Q1: do you have a brand/name of the citric acid cleaner
Q2: How much cleaner do you put into the system. 5 gallons of distilled water, I would think that fills the system but maybe I'm wrong.

C1: Holy cow, this seems like it's way over my head. I don't really know (haven't really looked) where the 1" hose connects (T's) up with the radiator. Is that the lowest part of the system or should I become familiar with the Petcock release that is a part of the radiator itself?


Thanks for the response, I'm just a bit nervous doing all this without ever having done it. I'm also put at ease when I see pics. That is why I was confident doing the backflush. I could recognize parts before I took them apart.

Also, should I clamp off the bypass to ensure that the cleaner and distilled water is going through the core? This is when I am idling the car of course and not driving it around.
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Old 10-15-2008, 10:13 PM   #6 (permalink)
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The trouble with the drain plug on the radiator is that requires removing the splash shield under the bumper, it drains slow compared to the lower radiator hose, and it almost always breaks (plastic). All your doing by unscrewing the plug is draining...which can be done like SHOZ123 said at the lower radiator hose where the 1" hose from the tank tees into it on the passenger side.

Here is a link to an old post where Paul (SHOZ123) attached a picture of where the hose is...

http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/index.php?...c=24129&hl=

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Old 10-16-2008, 01:36 AM   #7 (permalink)
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The system takes about 2 gallons.

Look at the label on the radiator flush it will say what is used.





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Old 10-16-2008, 07:23 AM   #8 (permalink)
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okay, so i do remember coming across that pic before, thanks for linking that in.

A few other questions arose when I was reading through my Haynes manual. Tell me if I'm over thinking this or not (seeing as I am an engineer, it tends to happen quite a bit )

If I drain from the lower rad hose, I'm assuming that the engine block will still have fluid (coolant) left in it. The Haynes manual says that I should unscrew the Hex Engine Drain block screws (at least the front) to get all the coolant out.

Is this needed?

If it isn't needed, when I add the cleaner, will it mix with old coolant? Is this okay to do?

I'm also thinking of just substituting the 'tap' water that SHOZ said to use with Distilled and running that all through the system. If by draining through the lower rad doesn't get all the fluid out, then by the time that I start adding the coolant the only fluid in the system should mostly be distilled water.

Please guys, let me know if this all makes sense or again if I'm just over thinking the situation. I'm just trying to understand it all before I 'dive' into this job.

Also, is there a specific way to dispose of coolant? other than letting it run off into the driveway/water table? Don't want any 5-legged frogs crawling around my place!
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Old 10-16-2008, 08:11 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Don't bother with the block plugs for now. It would be ideal to remove them but they will likely not be worth the trouble. I suggest the Zerex brand due to their chemical makeup. I switched my 2k to G-05 last year but I probably wouldn't bother at your mileage unless you are trying to make it to 300k. Most municipalites allow you to dump anitfreeze down your toilet. Do not do this without checking first and definitely not if you are on a septic or cesspool. Storm drains are always a no no.
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Old 10-16-2008, 10:19 AM   #10 (permalink)
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So, to sum up, it sounds like I'll do the following:

1) Disconnect lower rad hose & drain into 5 gallon bucket until it stops. This should remove 95% of the 50/50 coolant in the system (remainder in the core and engine block itself).
2) Connect lower rad hose back up.
3) pour cleaner (Still need a brand suggested) into the system. Question: Should I buy close to 2 gallons of this (enough to fill system? Or should I mix this cleaner with distilled water?
4) Disconnect lower rad hose and drain cleaner
5) Connect lower rad hose back up.
6) Fill system with ~2 gallons of distilled water. Let it cycle through the system for about 20 mins or so.
7) Disconnect lower rad hose and drain system yet again.
8) Pour 1 Gallon of PURE 100% Antifreeze and then top off system (~1 more Gallon) with 50/50 mixture of Antifreeze & Distilled water.


Please TCCA, look over this procedure and correct any mistakes that I have entered. This is what I plan on doing the first chance I get. If there are any corrections, now is the time instead of having all this apart.

ALSO: Would it be a good idea to clamp off the bypass hose with needle nose vice grips (similar to Reverse Heater Core cleaning) when I am running the Cleaner and then the Distilled water through the system?

Thanks again! I really enjoy the feedback from here. I'm feeling more and more confident with every post on this subject

**EDIT**
What do you all think about this: Evapo-Rust Coolant Cleaner
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