Brake Bleeding - Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-09-2008, 07:21 PM Thread Starter
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hey all, just found your site today and been reading through, lots of good info. I did have one question though that I haven't found a straight up answer on here yet. I put new front pads on my 2003 today and also sucked some of the old fluid out of the reservoir (I know its not how you probably should do it, but I did) So now the car stops real well after I pump the brakes a couple times. I'm figuring I need to bleed the brakes now. My first question is, are the bleed valves the screws located on the front of the caliper (it's been a while since I've had to do this, and I was usually the one pushin the pedal anyways).......also, what is the proper order for bleeding on the Taurus? Will I need to bleed all 4 wheels or just the two front ones that I changed?



Thanks for any help ya'll can give me
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-09-2008, 09:00 PM
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Yep, the screw on the front of the caliper that has the hole in it. And I just changed the pads/rotors, and only bled the two fronts, and havn't had any trouble. Start with the wheel farthest away from the master cylinder, in this case the passenger side.

---------------------------Colin Hunter----------------------

-- 2001 Taurus SES

-- 3.0 Vulcan - Dual Flowmasters - KN drop in - Front lip - Nightshaded Tails - Blacked out and Clear Cornered Headlights - Eibachs and Monroes due spring 2009

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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-09-2008, 10:31 PM
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Probably wouldn't be a bad idea to change the brake fluid. How many miles? I change mine every 30k or so. Just open all 4 bleeder screws and let them drip. Keep the master cyl. full when doing this, and keep changing til the fluid runs clear out of each wheel, closing them as they turn clear. Then when on the last wheel, when the fluid is a little above the minimum mark on the master cyl. close it all and top up as needed. It doens't really matter at this point which one you close first or last.
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-15-2008, 07:48 AM
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Probably wouldn't be a bad idea to change the brake fluid. How many miles? I change mine every 30k or so. Just open all 4 bleeder screws and let them drip. Keep the master cyl. full when doing this, and keep changing til the fluid runs clear out of each wheel, closing them as they turn clear. Then when on the last wheel, when the fluid is a little above the minimum mark on the master cyl. close it all and top up as needed. It doens't really matter at this point which one you close first or last.
-bobby
[/b]

Is it possible to bleed the brakes, without removing the wheels?
If yes, kindly tell me how to locate the bleeder screw's. It will be great if someone can provide the pics of the bleeder screw.

Thanks guys, for all your help !!

Abhi
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-15-2008, 08:52 AM
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The bleeder screw is on the caliper, looks like a small bolt with a nipple on the top of it. It might be covered in a small black rubber boot, or the boot might be missing. I don't know if I can get any more descriptive than that.

You could bleed the brakes without removing the wheels, but it's a pain in the ass, and you will spill a ton of brake fluid on the rims, which will ruin their finish, as brake fluid is corrosive.

I would never do what 94clit is suggesting, as you will inevitably end up with air in the lines doing it that way.

The proper way to do it is to buy a bleeder kit from an auto parts store. It's usually a small plastic bottle with a hose, a couple of rubber 90 degree elbows, and a cap for the bottle. You put a little fluid in the bottle, attach the hose and elbow to the bleeder screw, loosen the screw, and start pumping away.

The better way to do it is to take a clear, clean coffee canister, put about 1" of clean, fresh fluid in it, attach the elbow and a length of hose to the bleeder screw, and start that way. If you don't keep the hose under the fluid, you'll end up sucking air into the lines, unless you've got someone to continuously pump the brakes while you're running around, trying to fill the reservoir and close the bleeder screws at the same time. This is why 94clit's method is bad.

The progression will be RR, LR, RF, LF, where the driver's side is left.

**edit** Oh yeah, brake fluid goes bad after it's been exposed to air. If you have a bottle of it that been sitting for more than a couple weeks, toss it. Go buy Valvoline SynPower fluid. It'll cost you like $6/quart, and you'll need between 2 and 2.5 quarts, but it's worth it.

JR


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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-15-2008, 07:12 PM
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On the vwvortex.com VW Fan site, someone posted an article about how to build a pressure bleeder for less than $20 with parts from the HomeDepot.

I checked the parts, and sure enough, you can build it in less than 30 minutes for less than $20.

This design should work fine on a Taurus, it would only require the replacement of the German car compatible reservoir cap with one that is compatible with the Taurus.

The only drawback to a pressure bleeder when compared to a vacuum bleeder is the fact that you are going to waste some fresh brake fluid because the process fill the entire brake fluid reservoir, and you have to draw down and discard some fluid when you are done power bleeding.
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-15-2008, 09:13 PM
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Quote:
On the vwvortex.com VW Fan site, someone posted an article about how to build a pressure bleeder for less than $20 with parts from the HomeDepot.

I checked the parts, and sure enough, you can build it in less than 30 minutes for less than $20.

This design should work fine on a Taurus, it would only require the replacement of the German car compatible reservoir cap with one that is compatible with the Taurus.

The only drawback to a pressure bleeder when compared to a vacuum bleeder is the fact that you are going to waste some fresh brake fluid because the process fill the entire brake fluid reservoir, and you have to draw down and discard some fluid when you are done power bleeding.
[/b]
Link?
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-15-2008, 11:15 PM
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I need to know how please. I'm doing the brakes on the neon this weekend

*EDIT*
I just found this

http://www.ibmwr.org/ktech/pressure-.../bleeder.shtml
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-16-2008, 09:41 AM
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I need to know how please. I'm doing the brakes on the neon this weekend

*EDIT*
I just found this

http://www.ibmwr.org/ktech/pressure-.../bleeder.shtml
[/b]

I have a better suggestion to bleed the brakes, instead of using the pressure bleeder, follow the steps:

1. Open the RR bleeder screw first, and let it bleed, with you constantly pouring the fluid in the reservoir, till all the dirty fluid is gone, and you get he clear fluid. Now, close this bleeder.

This way you have bleed all the dirty reservoir fluid, through one bleeder, and no air in lines. Now you are left with only dirty fluid in the remaining lines, and not in the reservoir.

2. Now, Full the master cylinder, and open another bleeder screw, and let it bleed till you get the clear fluid, with constantly filling the reservoir. This will clear the dirty fluid in the line.

Follow step 2 for other two brakes also.

This way you can bleed the brakes, without having air in the line, and without anybody's help.
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-16-2008, 09:46 AM
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Here's a simple question. When pressing the brake pedal with the vehicle and ignition off, you can press on the brake say, 2x before the pedal becomes firm. Should the vehicle be running when donig this procedure or with the vehicle off, just stomping on the brake pedal. I wondering becuase I don't know how effective stomping on the brake pedal would be as it firms up quickly, or does the pedal lose the firmness when one of more bleeder valves are opened?
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