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Old 08-16-2008, 09:32 PM   #1 (permalink)
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I have both an 03 and an 04 Taurus. Both have 3.0L engines in them. What are some tips for getting to the 3 rear spark plugs?

Thanks in advance, Jim
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Old 08-16-2008, 11:17 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Remove the cowl on the back and reach around to get them. If you have the Vulcan engines, they shouldn't be hard to get at all.
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Old 08-17-2008, 03:02 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
I have both an 03 and an 04 Taurus. Both have 3.0L engines in them. What are some tips for getting to the 3 rear spark plugs?

Thanks in advance, Jim
[/b]
I have an 04...you DON'T even have to remove the cowl...or the UIM...just reach around back when the engine is cool....if you can unplug the boot from the plug...then with a couple of extensions and a spark plug socket...you'll have hardly any trouble...I was able to reach the middle and drivers side plug( #2 & #3) from the drivers side...and the passenger side plug (#1) from the passenger side...when putting in the new plug...put it in the spark plug socket...start it by hand...attach the wrench and extension if necessary and torque it. I found it harder to pull the boot off the back plugs than changing the plug itself. Of course use anti-seize on the threads and dielectirc grease in the wire boots.
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Old 11-30-2008, 10:25 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I have a 2004 with the Vulcan engine and here is what I learned to get the plugs on the fire wall side of the engine.

Remove the rubber tube between the air filter box and the throttle body - this allows for easy access to #2 and #3.

I had a lot of trouble with #1 ( passenger side). There is a heat shield shaped like a half a box (about 3" x 4") above the plug which made access hard. By removing that half box it was do-able to get # 1 reaching behind the engine from the drivers side. It helped to have someone on the passengers side to act as my eyes.

My engine has 80k miles and the plug gap was very large and the electrodes looked warn. Much worse than I have seen on other engines. This may improve the long starts.

Rick
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Old 11-30-2008, 10:51 AM   #5 (permalink)
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fredericksw has the best tip. Unscrew one of the hose clamps in the air intake hose right around the MAF, and unclamp the air filter housing and just move that entire section of your intake out of the car.

As far as getting at #1, you should get yourself a U-joint attachment for your ratchet. Should run you less than $10.
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Old 11-30-2008, 01:34 PM   #6 (permalink)
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The #1 plug was the biggest headache for sure. I couldn't pull the wire off the plug from the passenger side... I had to pull it off from the drivers side...BUT I found it impossible to thread the new plug from the drivers side... It had to put it in from the passenger side...I had to put the plug in the spark plug socket and attach an extension to the socket to use as a handle to be able to turn it & start it by hand.

This was my first plug change on this car & I got the entire job done in 45 mins without removing anything...except some skin from my knuckles but maybe I just got small hands
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Old 02-18-2009, 02:02 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
I have an 04...you DON'T even have to remove the cowl...or the UIM...just reach around back when the engine is cool....if you can unplug the boot from the plug...then with a couple of extensions and a spark plug socket...you'll have hardly any trouble...I was able to reach the middle and drivers side plug( #2 & #3) from the drivers side...and the passenger side plug (#1) from the passenger side...when putting in the new plug...put it in the spark plug socket...start it by hand...attach the wrench and extension if necessary and torque it. I found it harder to pull the boot off the back plugs than changing the plug itself. Of course use anti-seize on the threads and dielectirc grease in the wire boots.
[/b]
+1 to the anti-seeze and dielectric grease. Many folks don't do this. On the iron blocks it's not as big of a deal, however.....on the aluminum ones....it can make all the difference later on when you're back under there trying to get them back out again.

Thanks for the post. I haven't looked around under the hood too much yet to see how hard it will be to change....sounds easy.
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Old 02-18-2009, 02:08 PM   #8 (permalink)
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The only other suggestion I could give is this...BE CAREFUL pulling the wires off the BACK plugs...I've been reading alot of posts of people busting off thier EGR hoses.
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Old 02-18-2009, 04:13 PM   #9 (permalink)
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i took of the UIM to do mine + dpfe sensor, my buddys a ford mechanic and he showed me what to do and had it off in less than 15 minutes.
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Old 02-18-2009, 04:27 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
i took of the UIM to do mine + dpfe sensor, my buddys a ford mechanic and he showed me what to do and had it off in less than 15 minutes.
[/b]
He's got a Vulcan - removing the UIM (or the cowl) just to change the plugs shouldn't even be considered an option on the Vulcan.

Things around the #1 plug must have changed in 2004 - that's the easiest rear one on the earlier cars. You just have to deal with not really having a clear line of sight and do it more by feel.
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