Ac Cycling - Low Side Psi Numbers - Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-29-2008, 06:16 PM Thread Starter
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1997 GL: The AC is cycling on and off. Low pressure is at 25psi when running. It then shuts off after a second or two, pressure rises to 40-45psi, then compressor kicks in again and drops it to 25. Never on enough to cool that great.

Do I need more refrigerant?
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-29-2008, 06:47 PM
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Do I need more refrigerant?

I would definitely start with adding more refrigerant. When in doubt, fix the cheapest thing first.
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-29-2008, 07:00 PM
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Assuming everything is working fine with AC, 25 is low. It needs to be above 30 in a hot summer day.

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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-29-2008, 07:03 PM
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The charge is low. You probably have a leak. Putting in more will get it working again for now, but you should find and fix the leak to keep it working - and to prevent aiding in the deterioration of the ozone layer.

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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-29-2008, 07:09 PM
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At most auto parts stores and target and such, they have the R-134 cans with the dye in them, that would be your best bet.


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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-29-2008, 08:52 PM Thread Starter
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Added a can and am at 37spi now. Blowing ice cream headache cold again. This stuff has a stop-leak in it. I hope my issue is just a pinprick thing that this will take care of.

Thanks everyone!
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-30-2008, 01:10 AM
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I was testing the A/C charge in my '98 SHO the other day. Using a cheap gauge, not a professional set, mind you. The gauge read quite high, around 65-85. The a/c blows cold, seems to work just fine. So I check my other cars... they were all in the 30-40 range. I've never added any refrigerant to this car. I was afraid to bleed some out because it's working fine the way it is. I called a buddy with more knowledge and he suggested bleeding the system, or the compressor is wearing out... the only way to check would be with a pro gauge set.

Any ideas?

RIP TCCA

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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-30-2008, 08:42 AM
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Quote:
Added a can and am at 37spi now. Blowing ice cream headache cold again. This stuff has a stop-leak in it. I hope my issue is just a pinprick thing that this will take care of.

Thanks everyone!
[/b]
I wish I could have stopped you before you used the stuff with the leak sealer in it. These are notorious for clogging the orifice tube over time. One can (hopefully the small one) may not do any noticeable damage but either way it is too late to go back now.

In the future, use only R134A with NO ADDITIVES. No stop-leak, no oil (unless you can verify that you have in fact lost oil) no "cooling boosters." The exception is the leak detection dye. A little dye will not harm anything.

I hope you have no further problems.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-30-2008, 11:08 AM
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Quote:
<div class='quotemain'>
Added a can and am at 37spi now. Blowing ice cream headache cold again. This stuff has a stop-leak in it. I hope my issue is just a pinprick thing that this will take care of.

Thanks everyone!
[/b]
I wish I could have stopped you before you used the stuff with the leak sealer in it. These are notorious for clogging the orifice tube over time. One can (hopefully the small one) may not do any noticeable damage but either way it is too late to go back now.

In the future, use only R134A with NO ADDITIVES. No stop-leak, no oil (unless you can verify that you have in fact lost oil) no "cooling boosters." The exception is the leak detection dye. A little dye will not harm anything.

I hope you have no further problems.
[/b][/quote]

If you had to add R-134a in the first place.. its probably leaking.

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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-30-2008, 01:06 PM
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Quote:
<div class='quotemain'>
I wish I could have stopped you before you used the stuff with the leak sealer in it. These are notorious for clogging the orifice tube over time. One can (hopefully the small one) may not do any noticeable damage but either way it is too late to go back now.

In the future, use only R134A with NO ADDITIVES. No stop-leak, no oil (unless you can verify that you have in fact lost oil) no "cooling boosters." The exception is the leak detection dye. A little dye will not harm anything.

I hope you have no further problems.
[/b]
If you had to add R-134a in the first place.. its probably leaking.
[/b][/quote]

Indeed. Problem is, that the stop-leak does not descriminate on where it ends up. It may or may not seal the leak, but will also clog the orifice tube or expansion valve over time. In great enough quantity is can also destroy the compressor. This won&#39;t happen overnight, but problems could begin to develop by next season.

R134A is relatively cheap and a quick recharge in your driveway is easy. You might be able to get by for years by charging annually to replace what has been lost. Even better, put some dye in the system, find the leak and fix it correctly for a bit more money. Once the stop-leak has clogged up an essential part of the system you are done. No more recharges. No more A/C. Then it&#39;s off to an A/C mechanic, he will replace the orifice tube/expansion valve, the receiver/drier, the in-line filter, flush the system, re-fill with PAG oil, etc. After all this, he will find the leak and fix it. The bill will choke a horse and nearly all could have been avoided.

Honestly, never, ever, ever, ever put that crap in your A/C system. There are only 3 things that should be in there; R134A, PAG oil and leak detection dye. Just because Autozone sells something doesn&#39;t mean you want it in your car. Then again, there are people who swear by things like Slick 50 and Bars Leaks so I guess there&#39;s no shortage of uninformed consumers.



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