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Old 06-14-2008, 11:03 AM   #1 (permalink)
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hi, everyone. It is really annoying that Just warm air blow out in these hot days. so please help.

First, a mechanic checked the car, and he told me that there are enough Freon inside, but compressor did not work at all. so he suspected it is the electronic problem. So he directed me to an electronic special shop.

This electronic shop checked the cycling switch and tried to jump start compressor, but did not work.

then they checked electronic plug in lower pressure switch, and I was told that the line around that the plug was damaged, so they thought that they found the problem. They fixed the damaged electronic line. but during the fixing, all freon leaked through the lower pressure switch.

After they fix the electronic line, they tested the fuse box, and when AC is on, the fuse controlled ac is on according to the tester, so they concluded that all electronic part related to the AC is fine now.

After that, I went back to the mechanic I first saw, and told him that I need freon now. He tried to add freon, but compressor still did not work, so freon can not be added. He then told me if the electronic shop fix all electronic problem, it may be the problem of compressor itself.

Now I still have some concerns before I put money to change compressor.

1. As I read the ford service manual. It says that people should jumper start the lower pressure switch to test if the compressor can work. but as I saw, several guys in electronic shop tried to unplug that switch, but it can not be taken out. I tried myself, too tight.

2. If the system completely without any froen, is that normal that compressor will not work even if the electronic part is fine.

3. Any easy way to make sure if the compressor is dead.


Many thanks,
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Old 06-14-2008, 11:52 PM   #2 (permalink)
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if there is no refrigerant, the compressor will not attempt to turn on to prevent damage to it. the system has to be properly charged in order for the compressor to attempt to run. if its fully charged, and all the electronics are working ok and the signal is going to the compressor for it to turn on, and it doesn't... the compressor is toast. sometimes you can get away with just replacing the clutch on the compressor. does the compressor turn freely by hand? not the pully on the compressor, but the actuall compressor itself?
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Old 06-15-2008, 12:30 AM   #3 (permalink)
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The signal does not go to the compressor. When the cycling switch and switch 1 on the dual pressure switch are both closed, a voltage signal can reach the PCM. When the PCM has that signal, it will ground the control circuit of the A/C clutch relay. When the relay is activated, it switches on the circuit for the A/C clutch solenoid.

The cluch can be heard when activated, you should hear a loud "clap" or "click" when the clutch is powered on and off.

I'm sure that there is nothing wrong with the compressor itself, and that the problem is simply the clutch not being activated. It's probably a simple electrical issue. The only problem is, you'd need a way of knowing when the A/C clutch is commanded on and off while you are testing, because you need to test a circuit when the circuit is operating (or trying to operate anyways).
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Old 06-15-2008, 02:52 AM   #4 (permalink)
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could just go to and ac shop

instead off going all around

this is where i go when i need a particular prb fixed

im sure both off them dont have a clue to what they do on ac system

next time go see a pro that only do ac you will save time and money
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Old 06-15-2008, 03:29 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I don't think your mechanic or electrician know what they are doing.

Most probably your original problem was low refrigerant and/or a defective low pressure/cycling switch.

You cannot measure the refrigerant level accurately, without the ac compressor running.

If the low pressure switch was defective, and needed to be replaced, no electrician was needed, as it unscrews from the top of the receiver/drier without any loss of refrigerant, because there is a valve located there so the switch can be replaced.
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Old 06-15-2008, 11:22 PM   #6 (permalink)
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To loubob,

thank you for your advice. I also doubt the compressor will work if there is no freon in compressor. the problem now is how to charge the freon. The freon had been connected to the lower port. however, as the compressor did not work at all, the freon can not be charged.

To Mr. X,

Thank you for letting me know the process. My problem is, as you said, how to activate the clutch.

To mooby,

Thanks, you are right. I did try to find a AC guy these days.

To gohim,

cycling switch was jumped serveral times, no luck. Now low pressure switch is my suspect. My question now is if I finally take out the low pressure switch, do you think I still can jump on the compressor even if there are no freon inside. Many thanks,










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Old 06-16-2008, 08:39 AM   #7 (permalink)
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IIRC, you have to manually start the compressor by applying your own signal to the clutch so you can add freon when the freon is too low.

I think you just need to apply 12v to the clutch.

That's just from memory, though.
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Old 06-16-2008, 12:21 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
IIRC, you have to manually start the compressor by applying your own voltage to the clutch so you can add refridgerant when the refridgerant is too low.
[/b]
Fixed!

You don't need the system to be running when adding refridgerant, btw. The low side, if refridgerant is low, should have a lower pressure than ambient. You could just warm up a can of refridgerant (let it sit in hot water for a bit) so that the pressure increases a little bit, that way, the pressure difference should be enough to let some in.

Also, you don't need the compressor running to see if it's a low charge. If the proper amount of refridgerant is in the system, a static pressure reading should indicate a pressure close to ambient temperature on both sides.

Any air or moisture in the system could cause the pressure to read high though. For example, my car was low, but the pressure read high because there was a little bit of air in the system.

Oh, and one more thing, avoid any cans of R-134a that say "stop leak" or anything like that on it. Sealant is bad for the A/C system.
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Old 06-16-2008, 03:27 PM   #9 (permalink)
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"refridgerant"

No d...

R12 and R134a are both refrigerants and both are colloquially referred to as "freon".

If you are going to stick with the DuPont trade names like Freon, then 134a would be called Suva.
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Old 06-18-2008, 11:07 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Hi, thank you all.

I finally took out the electronic connector to the lower pressure switch. I jumpered the electronic connector with a paper clip, now I can hear some "click" from compressor. I observe the rmp in dashboard. Everytime there is click, the rmp goes up a little. I guess that this is the indication that the compressor is working.

Now, there are two possibilties(correct me if I am not right). One is too low r134a inside, so the compressor can not engage when I charged the r134a through lower side port.

The other is the dead of lower pressure switch itself.

Now, I plan to manually jump the compressor on, and add r134a. My question is where I should add r134a? lower port or higher port. I know, as for normal situation, people add r134a from lower port. but in my situation, where should I connect? many thanks,
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