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Old 04-12-2008, 04:36 PM   #1 (permalink)
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I bought a severely abused car. I readily admit it. But after replacing several parts, I thought I could live with the car.

The car had a thumping noise at normal start/stop. I replaced both front and rear engine mounts and got rid of the thump. Both mounts were pretty bad. After a month the same noise returned. I haven't replaced the transmission mount yet just because I couldn't figure out how to remove it. If anyone has replaced it before, please advise. Thanks.

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Old 04-12-2008, 05:20 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I can't help you exactly, but I am in the same boat and it's sinking!

I already replaced front and rear, and took a whack at the transmission mount (insulator is what Ford calls it). I could not get that damn thing out for the life of me. The parts guy suggested loosening the frame bolt at the front of the rail that the insulator sits on top of, where it attaches to the bumper. He said if you did that you might be able to get enough clearance to remove the insulator.

That was last summer. I haven't yet had another chance to take a look at it. My next guess is to see if it's possible to remove the insulator mount from the insulator itself. If that could be done, you might be able to slide the insulator mount toward the front or back of the car, and once it is removed there may be enough clearance to replace the insulator.

Anyone else?
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Old 04-12-2008, 05:22 PM   #3 (permalink)
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This mount is the hardest of the three to replace. You MUST get the car off the ground on the front end at least, supported by jack stands on the frame rails under the car (NOT ON THE SUBFRAME!!!). Then you have to drop the whole side of the subframe onto a jack and lower it pretty much as far as you can by removing both large 18mm subframe bolts. Then you must remove the 3 or 4 bolts that go to the frame that wraps around the transmission then goes to the mount. Then remove all the bolts holding the mount in place. After that remove the frame first, then the mount should come out. You will do a LOT of moving that frame around to get it out, but it will come out. It took me 2x as long to do this mount as it did to do BOTH of the others.
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Old 04-12-2008, 05:23 PM   #4 (permalink)
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sawzall will work great.....

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Old 04-12-2008, 07:08 PM   #5 (permalink)
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reciprocating saws fix everything! lol
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Old 04-12-2008, 07:39 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Squeek,
I was doing exactly what you said. I lifted the isolator as far up as I could and loosened 2 10mm mounting bolts. It took forever but I prevailed. BUT removing the 10mm bolts 1/12 of turn at a time is one thing, and inserting them is another. I now have both old and new isolators are sitting on my driveway.

MrBoom,
I understand your instruction. But clarify one thing for me. I have already lifted the engine/transmission as high as I could and I still need a good 1" clearance. (car is suppored by the side rail, not the subframe) If I lower the subframe, will I get that additional 1"? What I mean is if the engine/transmission will not come down along with subframe.

Rephrased,
I understand lifting engine/transmission gains clearance for the transmission mount.
I also understand lowering subframe gains clearance.
Can I do both and double the clearance?
Thanks.

Quote:
Then you must remove the 3 or 4 bolts that go to the frame that wraps around the transmission then goes to the mount.[/b]
I missed this part. I already started to do this as the last resort before checking the forum for replies. It's good to know that I was doing the right thing. I knew I could remove the 4 bolts but wasn't sure if I would be able to put them back in the tight spot. Since you've done it, I should be able to. Wish me a good luck so that I can complete this before midnight. Thanks.

PS: Saws-all was a joke, right? I am at my wits' end and ready to grab even a straw.
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Old 04-12-2008, 08:19 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Yes, if you only need another inch of clearance then dropping the subframe will give you at least that much. When I did it, I HAD to remove that support frame going to the mount. I couldn't figure out any other way to get it out. After I did that, it was easy. If I had to do it again, I think I could do it in about 45 minutes to an hour.
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Old 04-13-2008, 01:28 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Finally, I put a new transmission mount (isolator) in place. For those who plan to replace transmission mount, the key is to remove the bracket that sits on top of the isolator, whether you raise the engine or lower the subframe. 4 bolts hold this bracket to the transmission. The bottom 2 bolts are easy, but the top two have just enough clearance for an offset wrench. I do not recommend using a straight wrench. It can round the bolt head. Because they are threaded to an aluminum casting, it is not difficult to loosen them. Putting them back in tight clearance was much easier than I initially thought. You can pretty much hold them with fingers and engage first few threads.

Thanks, Mr. Boom. Before reading your reply, I already started removing the bracket. But without your reply, I would have doubts all along. YOur reply gave much confidence.

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Old 04-13-2008, 01:38 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Now just hate the engineers that designed the car.....
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Old 04-13-2008, 01:47 PM   #10 (permalink)
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have you thought about replacing the subframe bushings? because sometimes that will make a thunk noise on go stop conditions
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