Heater Core Flush Video - Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum
Register Home Forums Active Topics Topic Finder Photos Members List Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read Auto EscrowAuto LoansInsurance
TaurusClub.com is the premier Ford Taurus Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 02-26-2008, 11:05 PM   #1 (permalink)
jkk
Member
 
Member Number: 6550
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: St. Louis, MO
Visit: My Garage
Posts: 100
Trader Score: 0 reviews
Rep Power: 0
jkk has a little shameless behaviour in the past
Default

Here's something that may contribute to the recurring heater core blockages and to the insufficient heat after flushing syndrome.

When I flushed my 99 heater core last month, I had connected rubber hoses with female garden hose fittings (and a valve) to the 2 heater core pipes (1/2" and 5/8", I think). This allowed me to alternate reverse flushings by connecting my outside hose to either core pipe.

So, as I turned the water on for a few seconds and then turned it off, I saw this pattern of clear water, crud, clear water. The video shows what the flush looked like after the 20th cycle of turning the water on/off. I was surprised at how much crud came out, even after 40 of these on/off flushes. I ran 13 gallons through this thing.

My guess it that flushing the core stirs up the crud without allowing it to 'settle' into the output flow. Turning the water off allows the crud to settle into the outlet path, where it can be partially expelled during the next cycle. ??

The lesson here, in my opinion, is that we can't just flush the cores until we see clear water. Repeated 'interrupted' flushes are needed, along with the cleaning solutions.


Last edited by Sam; 12-01-2012 at 05:17 PM.
jkk is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 02-27-2008, 02:22 AM   #2 (permalink)
Crazy Devoted Member
 
shoz123's Avatar
 
Member Number: 125
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Ashkum, Illinois
Visit: My Garage
Posts: 14,111
Trader Score: 4 reviews
Rep Power: 0
shoz123 has a little shameless behaviour in the past
Default

That's disgusting.






I'll be right back I have to go pee.....
__________________
Paul Nimz
'10 Red Genesis Coupe
'08 Hyundai Accent
shoz123 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-27-2008, 10:32 AM   #3 (permalink)
Member
 
Member Number: 8940
Join Date: Jun 2006
Visit: My Garage
Posts: 327
Trader Score: 0 reviews
Rep Power: 0
madhatter256 has a little shameless behaviour in the past
Default

Question: Do you have to drain the radiator fluid to do this?

Also, what kind of cleaning solutions are there? I was told rubbing alcohol helps. Is that true?
madhatter256 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-15-2008, 10:38 AM   #4 (permalink)
Junior Member
 
Member Number: 14411
Join Date: Jan 2008
Visit: My Garage
Posts: 66
Trader Score: 0 reviews
Rep Power: 0
joeasheville has a little shameless behaviour in the past
Default

Quote:
That's disgusting.






I'll be right back I have to go pee.....
[/b]
That was the funniest post I've read on here yet, taken in context...
__________________
joeasheville is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-15-2008, 07:20 PM   #5 (permalink)
Devoted Member
 
Member Number: 181
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Boston Mass. area
Visit: My Garage
Posts: 1,098
Trader Score: 0 reviews
Rep Power: 0
OldWagon has a little shameless behaviour in the past
Default

Quote:
Question: Do you have to drain the radiator fluid to do this?

Also, what kind of cleaning solutions are there? I was told rubbing alcohol helps. Is that true?
[/b]
No need to drain unless you have lots of rust and particles in the system (if you do, the heater will clog again before a week goes by).

Other people use CLR calcium lime rust remover. Rinse thoroughly, as it's an acid.

Most of the positive effect stems from backflushing particulate out. The particles clog the heater passages. I went through many cycles before the water stopped have rust flakes and junk in it. My total was probably 1 cup of particulate... but I had absolutely no heat when I began. Now, I actually have to turn my heat down.
__________________
1986 MT-4 4-cylinder (R.I.P. circa 1990, rust, clutch)
1994 Station Wagon (R.I.P. circa 9/2005)
1991 Station Wagon (R.I.P. 1/2007, but the Benz that pulled out in front was bent much worse)
1998 SE Station Wagon (R.I.P. 2/28/09 at ~186k)
2004 Taurus SE w/Vulcan & AX4N | dark shadow gray metallic | gray cloth interior | still strong at 192K+
2000 Taurus SE wagon w/Vulcan & AX4S / tropic green metallic | gray cloth interior | purchased 6/12 at 51k miles
OldWagon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2012, 10:48 AM   #6 (permalink)
Junior Member
 
Member Number: 51396
Join Date: Nov 2012
Chapter: Northeast
Drives: 2004 3.0 Vulcan engine, SES trim
Visit: My Garage
Posts: 4
Trader Score: 0 reviews
Rep Power: 0
RB1962 is an unknown quantity at this point
Default

I have a 2004 Taurus with the vulcan engine and 175K. I did the standard drain and clean with a kit from autozone about 6 months back, but I've never flushed the core. Is this advisable?

If so, do you need to remove the air intake assembly to get back to the firewall and do the work? Doesn't seem like I could get to it otherwise, or am I missing something? (Btw, I'm a newbie at this kind of stuff). And any detailed instruction about how to do this is helpful; my Chilton manual doesn't go into detail here.
RB1962 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2012, 05:14 PM   #7 (permalink)
Banned
 
Member Number: 49973
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Washington st.
Chapter: Pacific Northwest
Drives: 1999 Taurus wagon se 24v dohc 169,000 miles
Visit: My Garage
Posts: 285
Trader Score: 0 reviews
Rep Power: 0
glock20man can only hope to improve
Default

what a stupid video, looks like someone taking a leak.
glock20man is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-18-2014, 02:44 AM   #8 (permalink)
Junior Member
 
Member Number: 47235
Join Date: Apr 2012
Chapter: Northeast
Drives: 02 Vulcan
Visit: My Garage
Posts: 7
Trader Score: 0 reviews
Rep Power: 0
blackfox is an unknown quantity at this point
Arrow

Quote:
Originally Posted by RB1962 View Post
I have a 2004 Taurus with the vulcan engine

If so, do you need to remove the air intake assembly to get back to the firewall and do the work? Doesn't seem like I could get to it otherwise, or am I missing something?
You can do it the difficult way if you want to. Or you can do it the easy way like I did. Here is a step by step of what I did.

1: Get a pair of vise grips, preferably small ones with flat jaws. If those aren't available you can use a C clamp. There's a heater bypass hose behind the engine, it goes straight across above where the heater core goes through the fire wall. Clamp it off, like pinch the hose so water won't be able to flow through.
2: There are two hoses, one that goes to the engine block at the thermostat box. Disconnect it and slap something over the fitting to stop the coolant from draining out of the engine. The second hose is on the left side of the engine near the belts. Pull back the clamp and pull the hose off the metal line. Put a short length of spare hose on the metal pipe if you have some.
3: Get one of those hose nozzles that have adjustable spray, preferably one that has a nose that will fit into the heater hose and seal pretty well. You know, the ones that you squeeze the handle on the back and water sprays out the front? The twist kind *can work but they're hard to handle and turn off and on.
4: Stick the hose nozzle in one of the hoses you disconnected that go to the heater core. Spray for a few seconds to a minute, then release. The pulsing (as seen above) seems to work best. After doing it a few times go over to the other side of the car and run it into the other hose you disconnected. It worked great on my car btw, although it gave me 'warm' rather than real heat.

If possible do try to divert the water coming out away from the electronics of the engine. Mine decided to misfire for twelve miles after I did the flush since I was sloppy. Also if you wanted to try the alcohol flush, I guess you could blow the water out of the lines with air and pour the alcohol in? If you try it let it soak a while. My only other suggestion is that if your heater core is clogged with stop leak like mine was to be more thorough than I was, in other words don't call it done after flushing for just fifteen minutes. Hope this helps some folks. No sense making more work for yourself when doing it the quick easy way is just as thorough.

5: And oh yeah of course be sure to remove whatever plug you used on that fitting. That and the vise grip or clamp you shut off the bypass hose with, and put all the hoses back on.
Also you might try driving, or at least warming the engine up with the bypass hose clamped. It won't unclog it if it's plugged, but might flush some further crud out of the core.
Good luck hope this helps some folks get it done in this cold weather.

Last edited by blackfox; 01-18-2014 at 02:49 AM.
blackfox is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply


Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:03 AM.



Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2