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Old 12-04-2007, 09:49 AM   #1 (permalink)
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I have a 2000 Taurus SEL with Duratec, and about a month ago it got pretty cold here in Florida, (sub 50 is cold for here) and I ran the heat and set it for 90 degrees till it warmed up, then backed it down to where I normally keep it at 60 degrees. Problem is it kept on blowing out the 90 degree heat like it is stuck there. Fast forward to now when it is back in the 70's and 80's outside. I have to keep the climate control off as it still blows out the 90 degree heat despite what the control is set at. What could have caused this, as it worked flawless until that one cold day and now it is stuck at that setting. It's bad enough my A/C doesn't blow cold air, but for me to not have any air circulation besides open windows really sucks.
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Old 12-04-2007, 11:42 AM   #2 (permalink)
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You probably have this:

"TSB 02-23-6 CLIMATE CONTROL - ERRATIC OPERATION OF THE COOL/WARM FUNCTION OF THE TEMPERATURE CONTROL SYSTEM - REPAIR PROCEDURE FOR STRATIFICATION (SECONDARY) TEMPERATURE BLEND DOOR

Publication Date: November 19, 2002

FORD: 1996-2003 SABLE, TAURUS
LINCOLN: 1998-2002 CONTINENTAL


ISSUE:
Some vehicles may exhibit constant warm air discharge from the climate control system. This may be caused by the Climate Control Stratification Door (Secondary Temperature Blend Door) which may distort and bind.

ACTION:
Replace the Climate Control Stratification (Secondary) Temperature Blend Door with a redesigned service part. The service procedure has changed as this door is now available separately versus replacing the case assembly.

SERVICE PROCEDURE

System Conditions

EATC System - EATC diagnostics may show a code B1249 or codes 022, 024 or 025. System defaults to full heat. System operates normally after running EATC on-demand self test, no concern found after performing appropriate Work Shop Manual Pin Point Test. Concern may repeat after two or more weeks.

Manual System - System has no temp control, possibly "popping" noise when changing temperature setting.

Stratification (Secondary) Temperature Blend Door Replacement

Remove the Instrument Panel. Refer to the appropriate model year Workshop Manual Section 501-12.
Remove the Temperature Blend Door Actuator. Refer to Workshop Manual Section 412-04.
The door control should now move freely. (depending on the extent of door interference, the door may not be able to be moved freely).
Inside the plenum, you will see the Stratification (Secondary) Temperature Blend Door or upper door attached to the main temperature blend door by an internal white nylon link. Disconnect the nylon link from the stratification door. Squeezing the clips together on the white nylon link should aid in removal (Figure 1).
Reach inside and remove the stratification door. Cutting the door with metal snip pliers near the pivots will provide easier removal.
Place the new door 3F1Z-19D842-AA inside the plenum chamber and slide in the large pivot point first (which is closest to you) then slide the door into position until the small door pivot point on the front side of the case clicks into place.
Connect the nylon link, reinstall the temperature blend door actuator, and instrument panel per the Workshop Manual."

On some vehicles, performing the climate control self-test resets it, and it starts working again. Doing the self test will also display any DTC's. Here's how to do it:

Remote Climate Control Module Self-Test

The remote climate control (RCC) module self-test will not detect concerns associated with data link messages like engine coolant temperature or vehicle speed signals. A scan tool must be used to retrieve these concerns.
The RCC module self-test will detect concerns in the system control functions and will display hard diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) in addition to intermittent diagnostic trouble codes for concerns that occur during system operation. The vehicle interior temperature should be between 4°-38°C (40°-100°F) when carrying out the self-test. If the temperature is not within the specified range, false in-car temperature sensor DTCs will be displayed.
The self-test can be initiated at any time. Normal operation of the system stops when the self-test is activated.
To enter the self-test, press the OFF and floor buttons simultaneously and then press the AUTO button within two seconds. The display will show a dashed line in the center of the climate control display window of the integrated control panel (ICP).

The test may run as long as 30 seconds. Record all DTCs displayed. The self-test is completed when 888 appears in the center of the climate control display window of the ICP.

If any DTCs appear during the self-test, refer to the REMOTE CLIMATE CONTROL MODULE DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE (DTC) INDEX. Carry out the diagnostic procedure given under ACTION TO TAKE for each DTC given.
If a condition exists but no DTCs appear during the self-test, refer to the SYMPTOM CHART condition: The EATC System Is Inoperative, Intermittent or Incorrect Operation.
To exit the self-test and retain all intermittent DTCs, press the "—" (cooler) side of the TEMP button. The RCC module will exit the self-test and retain all intermittent DTCs.

To exit the self-test and clear all DTCs, press the front defrost button. All RCC module DTCs will be cleared.

Always exit the self-test before powering the system down (system turned off).
Intermittent DTCs will be deleted after 80 ignition switch ON cycles after the intermittent condition occurs.
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Old 12-04-2007, 11:55 AM   #3 (permalink)
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wow that was thourough. Sounds like a pain to remove the instrument panel but if it comes down to it I guess I have to try it. First I will try the self test.

Where'd you get this info, I have the Chiltons and Haynes books and they mention none of this. Glad members here have more knowledge than the manuals even.

Thanks.
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Old 12-04-2007, 12:19 PM   #4 (permalink)
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ok, I tried the self test as mentioned above. First time I found the 051 and 024 codes. I cleared the codes with the front defrost button turned ignition off, and then tried it a second time. This time I found an additional 025 code. When I pressed the front defrost this time I heard a click here and there. Turned ignition off and then tried it again. Back to the original 051 and 024 codes but now there is a constant clicking during self test. I pressed front defrost to clear codes and now even with CC set to OFF I hear the clicking noises.

So basically all I need is the tool to take out the radio/climate control unit? I think I have one for another Ford that will fit this.

Figured I'd ask but it's not necessary to have the car running during the self test is it? I just had the ignition turned to ON.
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Old 12-04-2007, 01:19 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Called the Ford dealer for part 3F1Z-19D842-AA and they said that was only available for 2003 Taurus/Sables. I didn't ask for the part #, but he told me for a 2000 I'd have to buy the whole assembly ($440). There's got to be a better solution than a new assembly just to replace a blend door.
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Old 12-05-2007, 09:28 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Anyone else? I want to fix this.
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Old 12-12-2007, 07:45 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I haven't tried fixing it as I was waiting on another response from someone on here. It sort of fixed itself (for the time being).
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Old 06-02-2009, 04:04 PM   #8 (permalink)
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QUOTE (kjm-taurus @ Dec 12 2007, 08:45 AM)
Quote:
I haven't tried fixing it as I was waiting on another response from someone on here. It sort of fixed itself (for the time being).[/b]
I have had this exact problem now for the past couple of years in my '01 Taurus SEL. I was originally told by a mechanic, that I refused to return to, that to repair it would involve replacing the blend door along with the motor. Sounded like he wanted to shot-gun the thing at a tune of $700.

I have been resetting the cars computer by disconnecting the battery for a few minutes to get my AC back when it fails. But, on those 100 degree Carolina summer days, it would fail more times than not.

Did you ever get an answer to how to replace the blend door yourself, besides what the TSB says? To save myself a few hundred dollars, I'm willing to tear into the dash to fix this, if it's not going to be a week-end project.

Curious as to what your solution was.

Thanks
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Old 08-20-2009, 01:24 PM   #9 (permalink)
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QUOTE (dorifice @ Jun 2 2009, 04:04 PM)
Quote:
QUOTE (kjm-taurus @ Dec 12 2007, 08:45 AM)
Quote:
I haven't tried fixing it as I was waiting on another response from someone on here. It sort of fixed itself (for the time being).[/b]
I have had this exact problem now for the past couple of years in my '01 Taurus SEL. I was originally told by a mechanic, that I refused to return to, that to repair it would involve replacing the blend door along with the motor. Sounded like he wanted to shot-gun the thing at a tune of $700.

I have been resetting the cars computer by disconnecting the battery for a few minutes to get my AC back when it fails. But, on those 100 degree Carolina summer days, it would fail more times than not.

Did you ever get an answer to how to replace the blend door yourself, besides what the TSB says? To save myself a few hundred dollars, I'm willing to tear into the dash to fix this, if it's not going to be a week-end project.

Curious as to what your solution was.

Thanks
[/b][/quote]

I also have had the same issue with my '01 SEL. The car was not running during the self-test, (the ignition key was in the on position) and once the self test was completed, I started the car and the AC worked just fine. (could the computer revert to the factory defaults after the self-test?) Good luck.
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Old 09-11-2010, 08:35 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Great information here! I just ran the self-test and the Cool Air is once again coming from the AC vents on the dashboard. I can hear the blend door moving during the test. The diagnostic process must do something to un-jam a stuck door. Thanks for the grat advice.
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