<div align="center">STEP-BY-STEP REPLACEMENT OF REAR STRUT ASSEMBLIES
As I promised a few weeks ago, here are my step-by-step procedures for replacing the rear strut assemblies on a GenIV Taurus Sedan. I would rate the project as a competent beginner to intermediate level job and anyone with the tools, patience, and basic mechanical know-how should be able to pull this off (If I can do it, so can you!). Here we go:
1) 3/8" & 1/2" Ratchets
2) Various Metric and SAE Sockets
3) Breaker Bar
4) Cresent wrench
5) Large flathead screwdriver
6) 13mm box-end wrench
7) Propane torch
8) Hammer & wood blocks
9) Jack, car-stands, ramps
10) Probably some other miscellaneous items
1) (2) Strut Assemblies (I used Monroe Quick Struts)
2) (2) Stabilizer Bar to strut link bushing kits (optional)
3) (2) Tension Bar to Spindle Bushing Kits (optional)
4) (2) New strut to spindle pinch bolts (optional)
5) Tube of anti-seize
6) Can of PB Blaster
a) Soak all nuts and bolts in PB Blaster at least a day in advance (even more works better)
Remove rear seats and parcel shelf to access the Upper Strut Mounts (see picture below)
c) Loosen but don't remove the 3 - Upper Strut Mount Nuts (see pic below).
d) Safely jack and support vehicle
e) Remove the bolts and nuts holding the strut to the spindle. The pinch bolt is a bear! Use lots of PB Blaster and heat if needed. (see picture below)
f) Use a block of wood and a hammer to coax the spindle down off the strut. Make sure to support the spindle with something so you don't put too much pressure on the brake hoses and tension bar. With the strut free from the spindle, remove the (3) upper strut mounting nuts and remove the strut assembly from the car. Here's what you end up with:
g) Remove the stablizer link from the old strut, install new bushing kit (optional), and install on new strut assembly.
h) Install new strut assembly into the strut tower and handtighten the (3) upper strut mount nuts.
i) Install and tighten the nuts and bolts for the strut to spindle (see picture below):
j) The torque recommendations are from my Haynes manual. The installation sheet that comes from Monroe and with the struts has slightly different torque settings.
k) Install the new bushing kit for the tension bar to spindle (optional).
l) Install new pinch bolt (optional).
m) Once everything underneath the car is tightened down, you can finish torquing the (3) upper strut mount nuts and move on to the other side or reinstall the cars interior.
SOME LESSONS LEARNED
#1 Use PB Blaster and heat to help with stubborn nuts/bolts.
#2 The Pinch Bolt will be tough, especially if your car has alot of rust on the chassis.
#3 I found several steps in my Haynes manual to be unnecessary and I see no real reason for doing them. They are: a) Removing the brake proportioning valve bolts
Remove the tension bar front nut...the back nut which connects to the spindle gives you plenty of sway to remove the strut.
#4 Since the time and labor to do this job are fairly intense, I recommend the optional bushing kist and pinch bolt replacement at the time of this job...not much expense and why chance it.
#5 I used anti-seize on all threads to help should I ever need to do this job again.
#6 Depending on how fast you work, plan on from 1 hour per side up to all afternoon. The second one will go much quicker than the first one...
#7 My cost for the project was right around $250.00 total. I got a great deal on my Monroe Quick Struts ($210.00/pair) and the rest was bushing kits, etc.
I've learned so much from some of you that I wanted to give something back to the forum. I hope you find this How-to useful in some way. Feel free to add to it to make it better. These instructions could be easily adapted to just rear coilspring replacement, rear strut replacement, or using strut components instead of the already assembled Monroe Quick Strut.