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Old 07-15-2007, 06:07 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Hi again. I recently did a "tune up' consisting of spark plugs, wire cap and rotor change. I did it because the engine started "surging" while driving, hunting between 2000 and ~2500 rpm while cruising @ 100 kph. (It does this in any gear though, so I ruled out the torque converter. Anyway, when I replaced the wires and cap I noticed the ignition coil was stongly corroded on the tip, and so was a tip on the cap (and rusty), I think it was cylinder 5, not too sure. My question is: Is the ignition coil bad and could it be the culprit of the surging? How much does one of those cost? It looks easy enough to replace. Would you recommend one from a wreckers or new only?
Thanks in advance!!

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Old 07-16-2007, 12:17 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Surging is usually associated with air intake concerns, whether it be a bad MAF, IAC, or air leaks.
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Old 07-16-2007, 01:27 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Surging is usually associated with air intake concerns, whether it be a bad MAF, IAC, or air leaks.
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I cleaned the IAC with carb cleaner, can the MAF be cleaned?
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Old 07-16-2007, 03:37 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Yes and no.
There's a company (I think Gunk) that makes a specific MAF cleaner. Use that in combination with a soft toothbrush and gently clean the wires. Make sure it's dry before you plug it back in.
I also say no because some (I'm not sure about yours) MAF's use a heated wire in their air measurement... and the application of any cleaning solution can damage them.
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Old 07-16-2007, 11:56 PM   #5 (permalink)
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CRC makes a MAF cleaner. You just spray it on and let it dry for a couple seconds. You shouldn't touch the MAF wire at all.

The rusty wires sounds like someone didn't put dielectric grease on it on the last tune-up.
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Old 07-17-2007, 02:28 AM   #6 (permalink)
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I'll check out the MAF tomorrow, but why was the Ignition coil corroded?

ps: this is a 92, and I suspect it never saw a Ford dealer since 96...from the records I have
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Old 07-17-2007, 06:18 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Probably because they didn't put dielectric grease on the end connected to the coil either?
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Old 07-18-2007, 12:56 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Okay then, I did what I could to clean the MAF. Stupid security screws were in the way of actually taking out the maf proper, so I sprayed through the screen. It has improved the drivability, so I took an old torx screwdriver to work and drilled it out in a lathe, so I can get the job done proper. I'll report back when I'm done, meanwhile thanks for all the help!!!!!!!

ps: engine code "U", is that vulcan or Duratec?
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Old 07-18-2007, 10:36 AM   #9 (permalink)
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The Duratec wasn't available until 96. It replaced the 3.8L Essex engine.

VIN code U is Vulcan.

You can buy "safety-torx" bits (torx bits with hole in center) at any local parts store very cheaply.

You don't need to remove the MAF from the housing to clean. Just spray the wires through the port.
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Old 07-19-2007, 11:06 PM   #10 (permalink)
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How to clean your MAF with photos

http://free-auto-repair-advice.blogspot.co...maf-sensor.html
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