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Old 07-14-2007, 06:13 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Got home today and the driver side door lock switch won't work at all, the passenger side switch will just unlock the doors not lock them. I checked the fuse and it looks OK, plus the power windows work and they're on the same circuit according to the owners manual. I took both switch panels off the door and the wiring looks brand new.

Any help would be appreciated. I don't even know where to find replacement switch assemblies if thats the problem....
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Old 07-15-2007, 06:18 AM   #2 (permalink)
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How The Circuit Works


The Power Door Locks are powered through the PWR LK/WDO Maxi-fuse.

The Door Lock Motors are normally grounded through both Door Lock Switches (with Power Windows) or the Left Door Lock Switch (without Power Windows). When the Front Door Lock Switch(es) is (are) operated, voltage is applied through the Right and/or Left Door Lock Switch(es) to the motors.

The 117 (PK/BK), 118 (PK/O), 119 (PK/Y) and 120 (PK/LG) circuits are the power and ground circuits of the Door Lock Switch(es). In the LOCK position, voltage is applied to one circuit and ground is applied to the other. Power and ground are reversed for the UNLOCK position.

Sounds like it may be a ground problem.
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Old 07-15-2007, 12:58 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I'm having trouble unplugging the connector for the power window/door lock switch. I don't want to break it and risk losing my power windows. There are four bolts on the bottom of the switch assembly that I removed and I started to pry it off but it didn't look right plus the back clip that attaches the whole switch panel to the door panel is in the way.

I understand that this has to come off in order to get the door panel off and I have a new head unit and speakers coming so if anybody has a G2 and has done this, or has access to the Ford install sheet for the speakers, please help.

Nick
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Old 07-15-2007, 08:27 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Alright I got the switch and connector separated. The male contacts of the switch panel looked brand new and the wire bundle looked OK so I'm thinking its the switch itself. It looks like it can be removed from the panel.

Anybody know where to get a door lock switch? I can't seem to find them anywhere....
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Old 07-15-2007, 08:30 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Try your local Boneyard or Ebay. Or go to the Want To Buy section here and post.
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Old 07-15-2007, 08:39 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Try your local Boneyard or Ebay. Or go to the Want To Buy section here and post.
[/b]

Thanks. I did look on Ebay and there are some entire switch panels for sale but I can't guarantee that they'll work. I'll use them as a last resort

Is there any way to test the switch itself (proper voltage resistance, etc) so I can really see if it is indeed the switch that is bad?

Thanks again...
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Old 07-16-2007, 06:37 AM   #7 (permalink)
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BUMP??

Anybody dealt with a door lock switch before????
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Old 07-16-2007, 06:39 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Voltage should be 12V and resistance through the switch should be under 1 ohm.
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Old 07-16-2007, 07:52 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Don't rule out the possibility of having a broken wire. A friend's Sable driver's side window would work unless the door was opened in just the right position. Apparently all the opening and closing finally took it's toll on the wiring harness. Just a thought
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Old 07-16-2007, 08:25 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Where do you measure the 12V and resistance? There are three wires going to the switch (black, pink and green I think). I'm not an electrical person so forgive me if its a stupid question.

When my head unit and speakers come in from Crutchfield I'll inspect the wiring when I take the panel off for the speaker install. The wiring I've seen so far looks pristine..
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