The FOMOCO packaging calls it WIRING AS(SEMBL)Y (see attached pic) but my receipt called it SENDER 455712. Hope the pic helps....
Trying to locate a radio removal tool so I can get my HVAC controls out and try to go in high and thru the dash opening. My Sable has a console so I think this is my only route in?? Any suggestions would be most appreciated!
I know I was unable to pull my old one out because it was hard to get at. So I just unpuged the old one into the new one and it is working fine. I just have it tucked back underneat the dash
2000 Ford Taurus Flex Fuel 3.0, 112,000 miles. Fuel gauge reading erratic. Gauge fluctuates between full and empty no matter what the fuel level is. Am writing this in an effort to prevent an unnecessary fuel sender change.
Was reading online (not on TCCA) and found one other article about the same issue. The owner of that vehicle found that there was a module mounted with one bolt behind and to the bottom left of the climate control module which interfaced the sender with the fuel gauge. It is a 6 pin rectangular module (5 wires are pinned out on the connector side) encased in epoxy, part # YF1U-14A069AA.
Attached are pics of the location & appearance of this module. You will NOT have to remove climate control / radio assembly to access/change this out. Simply get to it from underneath.
$40 from Ford, maybe less elsewhere. Fixed the problem. Cheaper than replacing a $250 sender and a heck of a lot easier (providing you have tested resistance from the sender and found it was good)
Keep in mind, again, this is a FLEX FUEL model, so you may not have this on a standard 3.0.[/b]
I would like to extend my utmost gratitude to the author of this post that helped figure out the part number to replace a flex fuel sensor on my wife's 2003 Flex Fuel 3.0L Taurus. He saved me hours of hard work and frustration I would have wasted replacing a fuel level sensor that I would later found out was not bad. After months of of wife calculating her fuel mileage because her fuel guage was stuck on empty and even running out of gas by accident on Thankgiving day I read his post and ordered the part from a dealer that I used to work for. My cost was $65 here in Nashville, Tn and this was with my former employee discount (Thanks Mike). This part is not cheap compared to what others have been paying. Ford must have a massive issue with these because it took me a week to get one since it was on back order. The pictures provided were worth gold to me. It made it so easy to find and replace even though I basically had to stand on my head to get to it. I'm 6 foot 2 so its a little crowded in that car for me. I'm glad there are people who will take the time like the author to document how to and what to repair to get a car fixed up with pictures no less. The instructions given here and details mimic some of the manuals I used to use at the dealership and these don't cost anyone anything but time enough to read them.
On a side note she had a miss which turned into a sputter which turned into not being able to go over 55 mph to almost not running at all. I checked the codes and got a P0304 which is a number 4 cylinder misfire. I check the spark plug and ohmed out the spark plug wire and both were fine. I then got a replacement coil pack from Advance auto parts $87 and tried that. The miss went away and the engine revs like never before. Both codes are gone now and the wife if very happy so I'm happy. To let people know most electrical parts once bought cannot be returned. My local Advance Auto parts has a 90 return policy that applies to ANY part including electrical so if the coil pack wasn't the answer I wasn't going to be out $87 like if I went to Napa or O'Reilly's auto parts. O'Reillys is a few dollars cheaper but again if you buy from them and the coil pack doesn't work for you then you're just out of luck.
I mentioned that I Ohmed out the spark plug wire to find out if it was bad. For those of you who don't how to do this simply connect your multimeter leads one to each end of the wire and put your meter at the 20K setting. If you have 6 or under I would replace the wires. I checked new spark plug wires at the parts place while getting the coil pack and the new ones measures around 13.2. The higher the number the better the lower the worse the wire. Cheap plug wires deteriorate quickly (about 2 years) and they will increased resistance by about half of what their new reading once were. They also arc to other nearby plug wires (crossfire) or to nearby metal objects.
I hope this helps someone. I just wanted to help someone like I got help.
I replaced the module and while the gage seems to be working the check engine light is still on. I drove the car about 20 miles and it still will not disappear. The car failed inspection because of a 0460 fuel sensor circuit code, I have a 2001 SES FFV. Do I need to crank it a few times to get the light to go off or am I going to have to drop the tank?
I replaced the module and while the gage seems to be working the check engine light is still on. I drove the car about 20 miles and it still will not disappear. The car failed inspection because of a 0460 fuel sensor circuit code, I have a 2001 SES FFV. Do I need to crank it a few times to get the light to go off or am I going to have to drop the tank?[/b]
18465 1997-2005 MULTIPLE VEHICLES - INTERMITTENT MIL ON WITH DTC P0460 - SERVICE TIP
SOME 1997-2005 VEHICLES MAY EXHIBIT AN INTERMITTENT MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP (MIL) ON WITH DTC P0460 (FUEL LEVEL SENSOR CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION). THIS CONDITION MAY BE CAUSED BY AN IMPROPERLY INSTALLED REMOTE START SYSTEM, AFFECTING THE FLUID LEVEL INPUT (FLI) INFORMATION TO THE PCM. THE CONDITION MAY BE DIFFICULT TO DUPLICATE. TO SERVICE, CHECK FOR AN IMPROPERLY INSTALLED FORD OR AFTERMARKET REMOTE STARTER SYSTEM. THE INSTRUMENT CLUSTER OR HEC MUST HAVE POWER TO ALL 'HOT IN RUN' CIRCUITS FOR THE FUEL GAUGE CIRCUIT TO PROPERLY RELAY FLI INFORMATION TO THE PCM (EITHER BY NETWORK COMMUNICATION OR A DIRECT HARDWIRE CIRCUIT).
EFFECTIVE DATE: 03/11/2005
You mave have overfilled the tank and the computer needs to be reset or the instrument panel needs replacing.