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Old 07-23-2006, 11:55 AM   #1 (permalink)
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So I finally decided to replace my window regulator in my front passenger door. I got the part ordered and have it now. Following my handy Chilton's manual that is ever so descriptive (sarcasm if u didn't notice), I am trying to remove the glass from the door. I am stuck at the part where I have the remove the rivets that hold the glass into the regulator. I have been trying to drill the rivet out, but because the "stem" on the rivet extends past the base, I can't get the drill bit to stay in one spot. The rivet is pretty well chewed up now, as well as the regulator (don't care, have a new one anyways). I just can't get the thing out. Any suggestions? According to the ford service cd I can install all the parts using bolts and nuts rather than rivets. SO DOING THAT! If I ever have to do this again I don't want to have to deal with these rivets.
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Old 07-23-2006, 10:00 PM   #2 (permalink)
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doesn't anyone else hate rivets like i do?
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Old 07-23-2006, 10:13 PM   #3 (permalink)
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unless its the really large rivet that is mushroomed out in 3 directions, you should be able to poke out the center with a hammer and punch. the large ones i have always had to grind off.
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Old 07-24-2006, 05:45 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I'm considering buying a rotary tool so i can grind on this thing since the drill approach really isn't working.
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Old 07-24-2006, 08:47 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by rudedog@Jul 23 2006, 10:13 PM
unless its the really large rivet that is mushroomed out in 3 directions, you should be able to poke out the center with a hammer and punch. the large ones i have always had to grind off.
Yes, rivets suck, and we curse the engineers every time we have to do that job. As rudedog said, you can use a hammer and punch to knock out the centre of the rivet first, then use a 1/4" drill bit to drill thru it and get the head off. It seems scary to have to hammer on a rivet in the window, but i have yet to break the glass doing this.
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Old 07-24-2006, 09:36 AM   #6 (permalink)
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I have two other questions about this job. First is I am doing this to get the glass out of the door. The repair manual says to tilt the glass out. How am I supposed to tilt it out? Unless through removing other parts it becomes obvious, that glass seems like it is held in place by the channels. Do i have to remove any other trim pieces besides the weather stripping on the inside of the door and the plastic trim on the inside that goes around the window?

My second question is that the instructions mention that i don't want the spring to unwind. How do i prevent that?
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Old 07-24-2006, 10:05 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by cowspotter@Jul 24 2006, 09:36 AM
I have two other questions about this job. First is I am doing this to get the glass out of the door. The repair manual says to tilt the glass out. How am I supposed to tilt it out? Unless through removing other parts it becomes obvious, that glass seems like it is held in place by the channels. Do i have to remove any other trim pieces besides the weather stripping on the inside of the door and the plastic trim on the inside that goes around the window?

My second question is that the instructions mention that i don't want the spring to unwind. How do i prevent that?
Once you have the glass de-riveted (sure, it's a word.. look it up... heh) from the regulator, you'll be able to move it around. Take the inside weatherstrip off the top of the door, and that'll give you more room ... you'll be able to push the front edge of the glass down, and lift the back edge up, until it comes out of the channels (or vice-versa) However, if all you're doing is replacing the regulator, don't take the glass out. Get the rivets out, then slide the glass all the way up by hand, and use duct tape to hold it to the top of the door. Once you have the regulator unbolted from the door, you should be able to remove it thru the opening in the sheet metal. Then get the new one in and slide the glass back down onto it.

As for the spring, it won't unwind by itself. Is it a power window, or manual? I'm guessing power, and if you have to transfer the motor to the new regulator, then you'll want to lock the old regulator in a vice first to hold it. Once you unbolt the motor and pull it out, then the spring tension will want to swing the arm around in a hurry, so clamping it in a vice first will hold it in place.
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Old 07-24-2006, 10:20 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Thanks Nidan. I knew there had to be a way to do that w/o taking the glass out. Seemed kinda stupid...
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Old 07-28-2006, 05:29 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Ok, so I'm done with this project and thought I'd post how it went for the future. Once you take off the door panel, the glass is connected to the regulator using two rivets. You have to lower the window to the level of 2 access holes to remove the rivets. Once you pop out the pin and drill them out, the glass will be hanging there, so make sure you have someone to hang out to it. Just tape it up in the up position. Next there are two bolts to the right of the regulator, take those out.
Now come the 4 rivets. Use the same method used for the glass to remove them. The regulator should be free now. Unplug the motor and remove it all as one unit. The ford service cd mentioned that i would need to move one of the tracks over to the new regulator, but the unit i got from advance came with a new one, so this was not needed.
Mount the motor to the new unit. The easiest way is to screw the 3 bolts in part way, then rotate the arm so gears engage. Once they are engaged, tighten the motor down. Re-insert the regulator into the door. Getting the regulator to mount in the proper position was tricky. I had to connect the motor and use it to rotate the regulator around until it was lined up properly, otherwise i was fighting the spring and the spring was winning.
Now, the subject of the rivets. I first tried using the biggest rivet i could get in a retail store. No good, it was too small to hold on. I then got the rivets ford used from the dealership. They're not bad pricewise, only $.50 each. Only one problem. They seem to be bigger than any rivet gun I can find. They were bigger than the largest adapter I had for my gun. I then found a post online that said you can use 1/4" - 20 x 1/2" bolts with washers and nuts. I tried this and it worked perfectly. They still allow enough clearance for the regulator to rotate.
I then reattached the two bolts to the arm on the right side. Finally came the glass. Same situation with the rivets. I followed the ford service cd and used 1/4" - 20 x 1" bolts with washers and nuts. This worked fine on the left side, but when i tested the operation, i found that the right bolt was just long enough to catch on the outside door latch bar. I'm going to replace that with a 1/4" - 20 x 3/4" bolt. Given this, you could just use the same bolt on both sides. There is more than enough bolt on a 3/4" for the nut to grab on to.
That's basically it. Feel free to yell at the rivets as you are removing them because they suck.
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