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Transmission help needed

3K views 15 replies 6 participants last post by  labtek 
#1 · (Edited)
98 Duratec with with AX4N trans.

I have done a lot of work on this car lately and everything has worked out great with help from the guys on the forum.

Now I have a problem and just don't know were to start. I have searched and learned a lot but no answer to my problem.

I changed the trans fluid as per the wiki with Mobil 1 ATF and it has been shifting great and has somewhere between 300 & 400 miles on it. Now all of a sudden I have to rev it to get into gear any gear once it's in gear it seems to be OK but I haven't driven anywhere because I may not get home. It does not seem to slip. Yes I did check the fluid level and cold or not quite warmed up it's a little above the hash marks and I didn't see any water or foam in the fluid. Now this seems to have started after the big rain we had and the car did go through some not to deep water but ran fine after my wife got home and it dried out. She said she got some electrical blinking of lights and radio and also it tried to stall but cleared up and she came home. I did notice a clattering sound when she went to work the next day but it seemed to run and shift fine and the day after the same but today when I was trying to find the noise with a stethoscope I could not pinpoint it. After looking for the noise I tried to move it and thats when it started not going into gear. It is loudest in the torque converter area. It sounds like a bicycle with a card in the spokes or maybe a solenoid banging back and fourth but not real loud just a pronounced clattering that changes when I raise the RPM and is not as loud when it warms up . Now there you have it.

Is it maybe the torque converter clutch solenoid, wiring problem or something worse any thoughts.
 
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#4 ·
Chances are your torque converter splines are stripping out.
common problem. Your probably going to need a new TC.
There was a thread here in the past on this and a company
that makes a better than OEM unit.

 
#5 ·
soundu thanks I thought it might be something like that. This trans was rebuilt at about 67000 miles and now has 156000 and I have no idea if the TC was changed but I doubt it. Well I will have to find someone to do this job because I don't have anywhere to do it. The HMO gets pissed off if I leave a wheel off for more than a day. If and when I get this done I'll make sure to get the better TC but money is pretty scarce right now.

If anyone else has any ideas let me know thanks again.
 
#6 ·
I have been reading about my problem and was wondering if it could possible be the pump and/or shaft that has broken. The reason I ask is that it does seem to work when I rev it up. Would it work like that it the converter splines were striped. I can see it doing this with a broken pump or shaft.

We really don't want to give up our Taurus but this might be the nail in the coffin. I'm sure I can pull the valve body and pump but the whole trans is not going to happen.
 
#7 ·
Update: I have been reading everything I can find and I decided screw the HOA I will take the valve body pump out if for no other reason than to see what is bad or broken. At least I can maybe make some since out of this.

This morning I thought before I started on the valve body I would check the codes just in case and nothing but the 135 and 155 I've been working on. I did however put it in gear and it went in no problem (no clunk it was smooth) and I moved it up the driveway and shut it down. So it appears it works when its cold but wont lock up when warmed up only if I rev the engine. It does still have the clicking or clattering noise but as I said before it's not real loud but easy to hear and does change when it's revved up. My wife did say that when she would let of the gas on the freeway it will really slow down enough to move her up in the seat but back on the gas it's was fine.

I really need some advice (help) on what to look for. I will definitely check the torque converter splines but that doesn't seem to the problem or maybe it is.
 
#8 ·
Update: I took out the valve body today and the pump is broken. The shaft seems to be OK it doesn't move if I try to turn it and I looked inside the best I could and couldn't see any spline damage. The noise must have been the gouging of the pump cover which is pretty bad.

I would like to just replace the valve body but I'm having trouble finding a re builder. The prices range from $89 to $600 for a rebuilt unit. Has anybody dealt with Quality Transmissions & Parts of Florida and if so did you have good luck with them. They have the valve body complete for $139 which seems fair to me. If anyone has any other idea where I could find a rebuilt unit for a reasonable price please let me know I need to get this back together ASAP. Thanks!
 
#9 ·
Well I'm still looking for a re builder and the one I mentioned has a bunch of different websites but a pretty bad reputation. I tried ebay but no luck just a new old stock unit but I want a re built with the updates and properly tested. I am also going to replace the pump shaft because it does have some scoring where it rides on the bearing. I've contacted every re builder (that actually does the work in house) I can find and never get any response. So it seems the VB re build business is full of flakes or they only want to do business with trans shops. I don't have the tools to do this properly or test after the re build plus the parts are expensive.

So I'm asking again if anyone knows of a reputable business I can deal with. I would try local but having been here over 40 years reputable is not something I have found here.
 
#10 ·
Just wanted to let everybody know I found Central VB on ebay. They didn't list the AX4N VB but I contacted them and yes they do have them (all updated parts and fully tested) so I ordered and they also had the shaft (new) with o'rings. They don't have a core charge they send a return label and trust you to return the core. I also ordered a new side pan gasket, filter (mine fell out) and magnet (mine was missing) from a trans parts house in FL. Both places had very fast shipping.

I installed the VB and it works great. The trans hasn't shifted this good in years.

Thanks to every one for your help!
 
#11 ·
I like how the last 6 posts were from you :D

Congrats on getting it fixed! A well shifting trans is always good!
 
#12 ·
Congrats on a good job. How much time to you figure you got wrapped
up on the whole project?

Question: the AX4N was notorious for having a delayed engagement of
reverse. Mine has been doing it for a while, but its not a deal killer and just
an annoyance. Did yours do that also before the issues? If so, did it quit
after the VB replacement?

bob
 
#14 ·
I'm going to say it took about 8 hrs total. It took longer to remove than to install mainly because of that engine trans mounting bracket. Taking it out and putting it back really is like a puzzle. I had to wait quite a while before I put it back because of my problem finding a VB that I felt confident with. Tying the wires and other thing up out of the way took a while but well worth if because it gives you lots of room and getting the side pan and VB in and out was not really hard at all. I put the pan back on while I waited for parts that keeps things nice and clean and I also cleaned all around the area with carb spray and blew everything off each time I worked on it. I had pumped the pan out with that cheap little hand pump HF sells (about a gal) so not much comes out when you pull the side pan maybe a cup or 2. I did get the shop manual on ebay ($10) and between that and the help here it went very well. The car was on jack stands and I kept a jack with a piece of 2X6 under the oil pan and a jack stand with 2X6 under the trans pan. You'll have to move the engine and trans up and down to get the mount bracket in and out. I kept one of those large drip pans you can get at AZ under the car all the time so no mess at all. Hears a tip when you get the wheel and cowling (wheel well and under radiator) off soak all those large bolts and nuts (sub frame and mounts) wit PB if you need to I didn't than break all of them loose that helps a lot when your ready to start the job. You'll also have your tools lined up and ready to go.

As far as the shifting before and after. It did have some hesitation going into reverse but not real bad. What I did notice was a hesitation between first and second kinda of mushy but it drove fine. After the noise started it took a couple of 20 to 30 mile trips before it wouldn't go into gear (forward or reverse) when it was cold. Now it goes into reverse almost instantly maybe a second or 2 and in drive the same also the shifting is very smooth and without hesitation.

It's my wife's car so I'm not as used to it as she is. Thursday she drove it for the first time about a mile and back and said if felt much better. Yesterday we put about 30 or forty miles freeway and in town and she loves her car once again said it's been a long time since it driven so well. I guess I'm getting my Ranger back.

Next up struts and sway bar bushings.when we find the extra money of course.

If any of you are going to do this and have any questions maybe I can help.
 
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