Atchinson Ford in Belleville, MI just charged my girlfriend $514 to replace the ignition coil and spark plugs and fuel filter on her 2003 Ford Taurus (v6). My girlfriend brought it in for service because it was running rough and had reduced power. The service manager called and said the problem was a bad ignition coil and it could also use a set of sparkplugs. My girlfriend already had a new fuel filter in a box in the car (I was going to put in on this weekend) so we had put that on too. When they told me the bill I couldn't believe it - $514!!!!!!!!!
The charge included $105 to troubleshoot (what did that take - about 2 minutes to plug into the diagnostic port and read the code????) and almost $40 parts costs for the SPARK PLUGS, and a $10 enviornmental disposal charge - even though we got all the old parts back and they didn't change any fluids.
The $514 charge was just to diagnose a bad coil, and replace the coil, plugs and fuel filter. There was NO other work involved, and no towing, storage, or anything else.
Incidentally, they also said she needed a new air filter. That's a FLAT-OUT LIE since I already put a new one in a couple months ago and just checked it last week - still clean and white.
I wonder how Atchinson Ford ranks in the Rip-Off Hall of Shame. What do you people think? Is this the most ridiculous overcharge ever???
^ That's why we call them "stealerships", lol! If you have the "know-how" and time, you could have performed the same tasks for < $100. Which engine? Vulcan or Duratec? Parts costs are the same, labor will be higher on the Duratec.
I think about $100 for the fuel filter service (with their filter) and $200 for spark plug change on a DOHC engine would be a fair price. Changing spark plugs on the DOHC engine is quite an ordeal (My experience). The right way to do it is to take the upper intake manifold off, possibly change gasket, etc. I was quoted a price of about $200 at a Meineke to run engine diagnostics and change the plugs. They knocked this down to $160 with a coupon printed on back of grocery store receipt. I changed the plugs myself without taking off the UIM and I regretted it (I should have taken off the UIM). If your car has the 12v/Vulcan engine, that's a rip off.
I changed the plugs myself without taking off the UIM and I regretted it (I should have taken off the UIM). If your car has the 12v/Vulcan engine, that's a rip off.
The price is about right.
1. Running rough could be from a few different things and the ECU doesn't always throw a code. Was the check engine light on when she drove it in?
2. $40 for spark plugs is about right. Because of the was spark method used by Ford, you HAVE to use double platinum because coppers and signal platinum will wear out fast.
3. There is a standard shop rate for R&R the UIM, plugs, and Coil.
4. Did you ask for a quote before you or your GF authorized any work?
5. Usually the ticket writers go off of the Manufactures Scheduled Maintenance. So, if you are going to need a air filter in the next 1k miles or X months, they will list that you need an air filter, or what ever other item.
That seems on the high side to me, but not unreasonable.
I try to avoid the dealership if at all possible.
You would like to think they know our cars better than any other repair facility, but most of the time I find a competent independent shop to know any common (or semi-common) car as well or better than the dealership.
Several years back, before I knew much of anything about cars ago I had an 88 2.3L turbo Tbird, and took it to Ford with a fuel issue and they straight up told me they'd never seen one before, but they'd look at it. I was stunned. it was only 10 or 12 yrs old at the time, and one of fords more elite cars for a few years.
They never came up with a solution.
Then I took it to the old family mechanic from years before. He had it for a day. Found a clogged intake screen in the fuel pump. The cost was the pump + ~$150 labor.
I did visit the local ford dealership recently to do a mount/balance. Surprisingly, they were the cheapest option i could find - which really surprised me considering I brought in my own tires.
The point is - I suggest shopping around the local shop options - there are certainly cheaper options, and probably just as much or more knowledge on your car.
Call around and see what dealerships charge for 2004-2008 5.4 3V spark plug changes. It will make what they charge seem reasonable.
OTOH, this is why I do all my own wrenching....
That's why I started working on my own cars... labor costs are at $100 per hour in any car shop (for mechancial or electrical problems).
So I figured out that even if it takes me twice that time to do something on my car, it's like I am paid $50/hour
One of my work collegs just paid $500 to have the alternator replaced on his son Duratec. It took me (on my Duratec) some two hours of swearing, 15 minutes of net browsing and four bear bottles.
I would have done everything for a Six pack, and a couple McDoubles... lol Never ever take a car to a dealer unless its fully covered by warranty, or youre rich like that.. lol
Where were you when she needed you., You should pay half of it for being such a slacker. I always fix my wife's car first with premium parts. Still cheaper than the big boys and the perks are much better. She just took a trip to Colorado in a well tuned van that I sent her off in. The report back was 26 mpg with a 3.3L doge engine. Did plugs and wires from Rock Auto $39 with shipping. Got wires for $9.00 and plugs for $21 + shipping. No brainer. Changing plug on a mini van is worse than the Taurus by far. Never met a dealership I could afford. But they have the right test equipment for a price!!!
Ha ha ha ha - Good one! Hey, I did my best but didn't have a scan tool to read the fault codes. So, I drove her car to the closest dealer, and took care of the bill for her - all $514 worth. In retrospect, it would have been way cheaper to just buy a ODB II scan tool ($65- $260 at Autozone) and replace the coil and plugs myself. I know the back ones are hard to get to but I've done worse. My point is that I feel Atchinson Ford's charges were excessive. They charged $310 labor for AT MOST a couple hours work. They flat-out lied about the air filter and I also question that the plugs even needed replacing yet. The car has 146K on the odometer but the engine is a replacement out of a crashed car with actual total engine miles under 70K at this time. Bottom line - the real problem was a bad coil - and Atchinson Ford screwed us. And yeah, I'll admit to being kind of a slacker.
Shortly after I bought my 'tec, I had a local mechanic do my plugs, wires, fuel filter... Right at about $300, all up. At the time I felt like I was getting ripped off a little but in hindsight it doesn't seem so bad relative to what others have paid.
Wow - I didn't know that. That's very useful information. Thank you. I'll give that a try next time her check engine light comes on and I am not in slacker mode!
Honestly that does not seem that bad for a dealer. You have to understand you will pay more to get your car fixed at a dealer because they are more experienced at fixing fords car than a small shop down the road. They also have a much higher overhead costs. Auto repair is just like anything else you get what you pay for. If you don't want the high bill, next time fix it yourself.
All the Ford dealer's where I live charge a "diagnostic" fee.
If you knew so much about it, you should have either taken it in or gone in with her.
But maybe you now have learned that.
I this is the common practice, I only know of two dealers that haven't charged us a fee. One was my hometown dealership that was family owned and we purchased cars from since 1972...they recently sold to a large dealership which now charges the fee, and the other is an old family owned dealership in the town next to ours, it's where we take all our vehicles since my hometown one sold. This dealer still has the family name on the dealership and we will purchase our next vehicle from them, as they provide great service and reasonable pricing on their vehicles. Even the dealer that I purchased the SHO charged the fee when I took it in for warranty work.
"I changed the plugs myself without taking off the UIM and I regretted it (I should have taken off the UIM)."
Can you explain your thoughts on this?
I always expect the dealer to be the highest price. I wonder if because it was a woman(your girl friend) that they may have pushed more work? i.e suggest air filter change. In my area I have found Ford dealers don't like working on > 10 yr old cars. They would rather it be in the bone yard and you buy a new(er) one from their lot. I am sure in some places the dealer shops would welcome any repair and not discourage you to bring it in. But not in my experience in MA.
It's a blind reach-around on a Tec to do the rear bank plugs as-is, IF you can even fit your hand down there. I prefer pulling off the windshield cowl myself. Leaves the car still drivable if I need to get somewhere before the job is complete. ("Honey, quick, we're out of TP") And it's quicker and cheaper, no UIM gasket kit needed.
Any decent shop can work on a Ford. It doesn't take a specialist to figure out an older Taurus because they are a "dime a dozen." I can't stand dealerships. They always seem to find the smallest things and make them sound "big." I think an Independent shop would have charged you no more than 425.00. I swore I'd never take my car back to dealership because I once got charged a lot of money for a drive belt. A lot of mechanics say its a big job on plugs DOHC because they have to pull the intake off. A lot of them pull cowl and charge you for labor they never do.
Buying a car with a warranty usually does not pay off.
An independent family owned shop and a local family owned Ford shop have served very well for us because of good relationships established over years. Going to an unknown dealer or shop would be a last choice until I knew a lot more.
As an all thumbs ******* mechanic I found taking the UIM off and replacing the coil, plugs and PCV relatively easy. By the time I did my third Duratec it took all of two hours from start to finish. By taking the UIM off I was able to check hoses and get at the PCV a bit easier. On the other hand, when I look at a rusty suspension and think hammer, torch and blood the local shop looks much more reasonable. I guess its a personal balance of experience, money, trust and risk that drives us to do our own work or find someone to do it for us.
04-05 DOHC Tauruses require UIM removal. It sticks too far over that cam bank.
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