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Alert! Dorman Cam Synchronizer Assembly!

191K views 233 replies 118 participants last post by  Pro Ford 
#1 ·
Fellow Members,
I installed 3 new Dorman(CHINESE) syncro units back the 2nd week of October (2) #689-104 (1996-1997 3.0L Vulcan) and (1) #689-107 (this was for a 98 3.0L Vulcan) . I put one in my brothers 97 GL, 1 in my mother-in-laws 97GL an the other into my mothers 98 SE.
The reason I went a head and chaged these 3 is in a thread I made about my wifes GL Here>Read Here
Fast forward to last night, my brother said his car was leaking oil horribly. I checked it out and it was coming out of the sensor on top the new syncro. When I pulled the sensor off it was completly full of oil. WTF! I yanked the syncro unit out and I was totally Horrified. The roll pin in the gear was split in half and falling out of the gear and the gear was loose on the damn shaft....this is a press fit application(supposed to be). It also wore the thrust washer on top the gear. JUNKED! 2500 miles. I was fortunate it did not grenade his engine.

So I go pick up the mother-in-laws and pulled it out.....the freaking gear was loose on that one and had play in it also...not totally failed yet but was already stressing the pin horribly and it has oil weeping under the sensor already. JUNK #2. around 1500 miles.

I then go pick up my mothers 98 and you guessed it...the freaking pin and gear are loose here also...JUNK.

These units WILL FAIL! I fortunatly had all the old units lying on a shelf and put them back in till my Reman units(A1 Cardone...USA) come in Monday. The parts house was astonished but not suprised....loose tolerances and sub-standard metallargy.

Do yourself a favor if you are using one remove it and inspect it ASAP! I could understand finding a bad part out of a barrel but all three is a whole other ballgame.
BTW, Im going to pull the Reman-Napa(actually A1 Cardone) out of my wifes tommorow to see how it looks. I BET it is perfectly fine.
Yours Truly,
Pro Ford
 
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#152 ·
Thanks to all who posted their experience with the aftermarket synchronizers and the step by step instructions for replacement. My Vulcan has 115k on it and the intermittent squeak is there, which from what I have read that is the upper limit of life for the original unit. Getting ready to pull the old one out today or tomorrow and replace it with the OEM I bought at Rock Auto. Just wanted to chime in with my 2 cents worth about which unit I chose for the replacement.

This is a classic risk/reward situation. Dorman unit at Advance is $68.00, OEM unit was $95.00 plus about 10 dollars to ship minus 5% discount for a total of right at $100.00. The reward in this scenario is around 30 bucks.
Now on to the risk. Dorman unit fails after 1K-50K miles and (best case) car gets me home and I have to replace the shaft again. Worst case, the failure is catastrophic and the cars dies 100 miles from home due to the lack of oil pressure and other critical engine parts are damaged due to lack of sufficient oil. For me a no brainer, not to save about 30 dollars. I agree Ford should address the problem about what appears to be a short life on the synchronizer but then again I am sure the income stream from replacement parts is a factor.

Since I am running with double platinum plugs that have to be changed every 100k, I chose to look at this as just another maintenance item that will be replaced at that time. If it is as easy as everyone says it is, I will invest the 100 dollars and my labor for the part that is the highest quality available. Besides, look at how much I saved by not taking it to the dealer.

Just my opinion.
 
#153 ·
Guys I just installed the Dorman part in my car and then read on you site that the cam synchronizers were giving problems. I called the company and found that they have corrected the problem and the new part number is 689 117. I will post this up better in a few days. If you have any questions please ask.
 
#154 ·
I wish i would have read this before i changed my synchro assy.
it was barely in there 3 days before the splines on the actual assy were completely sheared off.
was driving down the highway on the way home, heard a loud grinding noise, and the oil light came on.
ouch. :(
yes, it was installed correctly. haha
so i got home, put the old one back in, changed the oil, and picked up a REAL ford assy. hasnt had a problem since. its probably been about 10-15k miles now and its still running.
that was a close one though.
just be careful and use good parts, lol.
 
#155 ·
Well I hate to say thi but, important part = bought mine at the dealership 250 bucks with nodouble work or oil leak, and no need fir excedrin

Thanks for the heads up though!!!


QUOTE (Pro Ford @ Dec 14 2007, 07:04 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=571343
Fellow Members,
I installed 3 new Dorman(CHINESE) syncro units back the 2nd week of October (2) #689-104 (1996-1997 3.0L Vulcan) and (1) #689-107 (this was for a 98 3.0L Vulcan) . I put one in my brothers 97 GL, 1 in my mother-in-laws 97GL an the other into my mothers 98 SE.
The reason I went a head and chaged these 3 is in a thread I made about my wifes GL Here>Read Here
Fast forward to last night, my brother said his car was leaking oil horribly. I checked it out and it was coming out of the sensor on top the new syncro. When I pulled the sensor off it was completly full of oil. WTF! I yanked the syncro unit out and I was totally Horrified. The roll pin in the gear was split in half and falling out of the gear and the gear was loose on the damn shaft....this is a press fit application(supposed to be). It also wore the thrust washer on top the gear. JUNKED! 2500 miles. I was fortunate it did not grenade his engine.

So I go pick up the mother-in-laws and pulled it out.....the freaking gear was loose on that one and had play in it also...not totally failed yet but was already stressing the pin horribly and it has oil weeping under the sensor already. JUNK #2. around 1500 miles.

I then go pick up my mothers 98 and you guessed it...the freaking pin and gear are loose here also...JUNK.

These units WILL FAIL! I fortunatly had all the old units lying on a shelf and put them back in till my Reman units(A1 Cardone...USA) come in Monday. The parts house was astonished but not suprised....loose tolerances and sub-standard metallargy.

Do yourself a favor if you are using one remove it and inspect it ASAP! I could understand finding a bad part out of a barrel but all three is a whole other ballgame.
BTW, Im going to pull the Reman-Napa(actually A1 Cardone) out of my wifes tommorow to see how it looks. I BET it is perfectly fine.
Yours Truly,
Pro Ford[/b]
 
#156 ·
I have a 97 sable 164K, 02 sable 110K, and 07 taurus 55K. The 97 had the synchro replaced at about 80K and 160K. The 02 had the syncro replaced at about 105K. The 07 still has the original, but if I listen closely, I can heara very faint squeek in the area it should be. I had mine replaced at the local independant or the dealer. As far as I know Ford parts were used all 3 times. I had them save one of the old parts for my curiosity and to see if it was repairable. It was a ford part and it would squeak and bind when turned by hand.

The gear is definetly pressed on. I removed the roll pin and tried to drive it off only to have it move a little after much pounding. I then put it in a 12 ton press to remove the gear. The shaft then had to be soaked in WD40 to loosen the red varnish from the cooked oil before I could get the shaft out.

The top end or sensor end of the shaft was worn. It had only been chirping when first started up for about 2 or 4 weeks before I took it to the shop to have it replaced. The top bearing is pressed in and looks like it is the sintered metal and graphite type oilless bearing as there is an o-ring seal below the bearing that would keep engine oil from getting the top part of the shaft and bearing.

From what I see the only keeper parts are the gear and body. The shaft, seals, and bearing would need to be replaced. It might be possible to weld up the worn area and grind the old shaft.

After cleaning and reoiling it does not squeek or bind, but i would not reuse it due to the worn shaft. It might last a little while but I would be afraid it would seize and ruin the motor.
 
#157 ·
Hi guys. New here and obviously found the right place for the information I need. Thank all of you VERY much.......... BUT I need a little bit more help.

To make a long story short, I acquired a 1996 Ford Taurus GL. After many small problems etc. I was told that I have the dreaded 340 code. I needed a FAST CPS replacement, so I was able to pick up a cheap Airtex replacement sensor.

I went ahead and decided to put the sensor on myself, and well had a little bit of a surprise. I removed the old unit and sure enough the magnet, etc. was out and pretty much made a mess. A BIG mess!

Apparently this car had been run for a long time with the old, destroyed sensor. The tab on the synchronizer assembly was not even attached. It literally wore down the area it is supposed to be attached to. I cant even tell where the tab broke off from. There just isn't any sign whatsoever to see it's orientation.

How is it possible to make the appropriate marks on the assembly to pin it's location so I can match the new assembly to the orientation of the old assembly? I just don't see any way of doing it.

If I can't tell where the tab was at to mark it appropriately, how is it possible to install the new assembly?

This is my only mode of transportation, and in NO WAY can I afford to have a dealership or any reputable mechanic do the repair.

Honestly the only thing I can afford is the new synchronizer. I am getting the Motorcraft one though.

PLEASE, can somebody help me figure out how to do this repair?

If it helps, I can post pics of what I mean.

Is there ANY way of doing this? Maybe I'm making this out to be harder then it really is, but after reading the information here, I don't see how it can be done if I cant mark the old one properly.

PLEASE and THANK YOU to anyone that is able to help me.
 
#158 ·
QUOTE (00tec-saTX @ Dec 20 2007, 12:13 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=573394
QUOTE (Bryan S @ Dec 20 2007, 10:38 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=573387
GREAT! I just performed this repair last weekend! I used the Dorman part also. It fit well though. Nice and tight with no play. Looks like I'll have to tell my cash strapped son the good news...... more $$$$ to keep your car alive! I have to replace an O2 sensor this weekend. I had to replace the oil pan gasket and trans pan gasket last month, the cam sync last weekend, It also needs tires. It might be cheaper to sell it and get something different. The AC is blowing fuses also.... more $$$$. I guess what I heard is true..... great cars until they get to 90,000.... then they blow up! :rolleyes:[/b]
:dunno:


[/b][/quote]

Hey Bryan S, good click dear, at this high speed you might have experienced rock!! I also love to drive speedily and I had reached to 100 in my SX4 car, I was feeling really great at that time.
Thanks foe showing this pic..
 
#160 ·
Well just got my "upgraded" Dorman cam sychronizer from Rock Auto. Part # on the box reads 689-117. Part # on the actual sync 689-107 219. I used the tool and camshaft sensor from Dorman with a reman Cardone sync (Ford emblem and # still etched on side $53 at AZ). Works fine now. It did have the chirp. I think Dorman is still trying to pull a fast one on these syncs though. This unit was put in a 2000 Ford Ranger but wanted to inform everyone about the bait and switch still going on at Dorman.
 
#162 ·
Well just got my "upgraded" Dorman cam sychronizer from Rock Auto. Part # on the box reads 689-117. Part # on the actual sync 689-107 219. I used the tool and camshaft sensor from Dorman with a reman Cardone sync (Ford emblem and # still etched on side $53 at AZ). Works fine now. It did have the chirp. I think Dorman is still trying to pull a fast one on these syncs though. This unit was put in a 2000 Ford Ranger but wanted to inform everyone about the bait and switch still going on at Dorman.
I, too ordered the dorman part for the special tool and the sensor, and bought the motocraft shat assembly. Is this cool? I need that tool so I don't goof it up :)
 
#161 ·
QUOTE (harry99GSX @ Apr 10 2010, 11:25 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=796644
Hi guys. New here and obviously found the right place for the information I need. Thank all of you VERY much.......... BUT I need a little bit more help.

To make a long story short, I acquired a 1996 Ford Taurus GL. After many small problems etc. I was told that I have the dreaded 340 code. I needed a FAST CPS replacement, so I was able to pick up a cheap Airtex replacement sensor.

I went ahead and decided to put the sensor on myself, and well had a little bit of a surprise. I removed the old unit and sure enough the magnet, etc. was out and pretty much made a mess. A BIG mess!

Apparently this car had been run for a long time with the old, destroyed sensor. The tab on the synchronizer assembly was not even attached. It literally wore down the area it is supposed to be attached to. I cant even tell where the tab broke off from. There just isn't any sign whatsoever to see it's orientation.

How is it possible to make the appropriate marks on the assembly to pin it's location so I can match the new assembly to the orientation of the old assembly? I just don't see any way of doing it.

If I can't tell where the tab was at to mark it appropriately, how is it possible to install the new assembly?

This is my only mode of transportation, and in NO WAY can I afford to have a dealership or any reputable mechanic do the repair.

Honestly the only thing I can afford is the new synchronizer. I am getting the Motorcraft one though.

PLEASE, can somebody help me figure out how to do this repair?

If it helps, I can post pics of what I mean.

Is there ANY way of doing this? Maybe I'm making this out to be harder then it really is, but after reading the information here, I don't see how it can be done if I cant mark the old one properly.

PLEASE and THANK YOU to anyone that is able to help me.[/b]
I had the same issue with my 96 Taurus. Bought a new cam sync. assembly w/sensor. (motorcraft) part. Parts store had no sync tool. The tab on top of my old sync. assembly was destroyed so I did this..........

1) Bring the engine up to top dead center (TDC) of the compression stroke for cylinder No. 1.

2) The engine needs to be positioned at 26 degrees after TDC. There will often be a large groove machined into the balancer at this point. If not, mark the balancer by measuring from TDC to 26 degrees before TDC. Take that measurement and make your own mark at 26 degrees after TDC.

3) Drop in the synchronizer so that the leading edge of the vane is close to the center of the opening in the housing (this is directly below the actual sensing part of the cam sensor).

4) Leaving the synchronizer loose, install the cam sensor and connect a voltmeter from the ground to the dark blue/orange wire with the sensor plugged in.

5) With the key on, the voltmeter should read either "0 volts" or "battery voltage."

6) Turn the synchronizer back and forth to find the point where the voltage is just switching from "0 volts" to "battery voltage."

7) Once you find that point, tighten down the hold-down bolt. This same procedure can be used on most OBD-II Ford products with Hall-effect type cam sensors.

Mash here

The terminal you want to measure on the CPS with it connected to the wiring harness is the center wire. Just like stated above it will read 0 volts just before the tab passes in front of the pickup sensor. I don't know where the 26 degrees AFTER TDC comes from but I trusted it. This may even be more accurate than the tool.



EDIT - I located a tool, the plastic type that comes with some synchronizers. Turned the engine to TDC of #1 and removed the CPS. The tool dropped right down over the tab showing it was set correctly. So I guess this method works. The hardest part is the 26 degrees after TDC you must mark on the harmonic balancer.
 
#164 ·
QUOTE (harry99GSX @ Apr 10 2010, 11:25 PM)

I had the same issue with my 96 Taurus. Bought a new cam sync. assembly w/sensor. (motorcraft) part. Parts store had no sync tool. The tab on top of my old sync. assembly was destroyed so I did this..........

1) Bring the engine up to top dead center (TDC) of the compression stroke for cylinder No. 1.

2) The engine needs to be positioned at 26 degrees after TDC. There will often be a large groove machined into the balancer at this point. If not, mark the balancer by measuring from TDC to 26 degrees before TDC. Take that measurement and make your own mark at 26 degrees after TDC.

3) Drop in the synchronizer so that the leading edge of the vane is close to the center of the opening in the housing (this is directly below the actual sensing part of the cam sensor).

4) Leaving the synchronizer loose, install the cam sensor and connect a voltmeter from the ground to the dark blue/orange wire with the sensor plugged in.

5) With the key on, the voltmeter should read either "0 volts" or "battery voltage."

6) Turn the synchronizer back and forth to find the point where the voltage is just switching from "0 volts" to "battery voltage."

7) Once you find that point, tighten down the hold-down bolt. This same procedure can be used on most OBD-II Ford products with Hall-effect type cam sensors.

Mash here

The terminal you want to measure on the CPS with it connected to the wiring harness is the center wire. Just like stated above it will read 0 volts just before the tab passes in front of the pickup sensor. I don't know where the 26 degrees AFTER TDC comes from but I trusted it. This may even be more accurate than the tool.



EDIT - I located a tool, the plastic type that comes with some synchronizers. Turned the engine to TDC of #1 and removed the CPS. The tool dropped right down over the tab showing it was set correctly. So I guess this method works. The hardest part is the 26 degrees after TDC you must mark on the harmonic balancer.
Which directions say to do that? That is not the way I read it; what it says is line up the engine so Cyl. #1 is at top dead center on the compression stroke, and that to line up the SPECIAL TOOL 26 degrees counterclokcwise of the crankshaft. That is not the same exact as putting the engine at 26 degrees, which it does NOT say to do. It says put engine at #1 Cyl. TDC of comprssion stroke, not 26 degrees off.

Anyway, sounds like if you get it at TDC, it drops in nicely.

I myself want to just markt he old part, pull and drop in the new one in the exact smae way. Some are saying this works good. I'm looking for more people to chime-in on doing it the "quick way", as I reside in an apartment complex and am trying to keep the work "low key".

SO can I really just mark it real good and do it that way? Who else here has? I bought the parts now I need to get out there!
 
#165 · (Edited)
Got 'er done! Thanks everyone!

Wow I got it done! I think almost anyone can do this themselves without the special tool (although it'd be good to have just in case, I have one). As long as you mark the part in both places and on the engine, you're golden! I also marked my new part before dropping it into place, went in right the first time without a hitch!

Here's how I did it (very easy and barely remove anything).

Gather the following tools:

5.5 MM socket (synchro senor bolts on top of part)

10 MM socket (bolt holding the synchronizer in)

8mm socket or wrench (battery negative cable, I used small combo wrench closed end)

short extension

medium/long extension

flat tip screwdriver (push coolant hose off and out of way)

regular pliers (coolant hose clamp)

flashlight

white out for marking parts

rubber gloves (optional)

Carb cleaner or brake cleaner or nail polish remover, etc. to remove whiteout off of new part if you want to and a

Clean shop towel or 2.

Parts:

Brand new motorcraft synch (Rockauto, about $100)

Brand new dorman synchro (for the special tool I never used, and the sensor on top).

Total for parts with shipping was $143.00

Time needed: about 1.5 hours. I started at 8PM because it was fairly cool. I finshed about 9:30 just as it was getting dark.

I added up the times allotted below, it takes about 42 minutes if you gather everything first and just follow my exact advise.

I did it with the engine cold, and with the sun NOT beaming down on me, I hope you do the same!

1. Disconnect negative battery cable...8 MM closed end wrench or socket if you prefer, 1 minute.

2. Disconnect clip from coolant temp sensor, 1 Minute (it is in the way a bit, it's right on top the engine near the part and everything else in the way). You can do this with your bare hands, no screwdriver or anything needed to remove this clip.

3. Disconnect the throttle cables/Cruize conrtol cables, as well as the plastic cover 2-3 minutes if you're kind slow and careful like I tend to be, It pops off and you usually lose a plastic rivet but I still had one left at the end to put it back on.

4. Move 3 plug wires 1 Minute (route them out of the way :as needed, no need to disconnect them, althoug I did "optimize mine, make sure and only disconnect one at a time so you do not confuse which one goes where (firing order).

5. Remove water hose from head/intake. 3-5 minutes I used a flat tip screwdriver to push it off bit by bit, too difficult to pull it away with hand. This is probably the worst part but now you know the EZ way (screwdriver to push off the hose).

6. Bend wiring loom/harness up and out of way, hold it firmly with one hand 1 Minute.

7. Disconnect clip from Cam Sensor 1 Minute, just use hand.

8 . Using a 5.5 MM socket, loosen the 2 bolts on the sensor, while still holding up the wires, and remove cam sensor. 2-3 minutes

9. Mark the old part using WHITE OUT. 2-3 minutes (take your time). You mark the inner slot on the part that spins with the body of the part, than mark the outer slot and on the engine where that slot lines up (see pic attached), so everything on the new part can go in the same spot.

10. Remove the bolt holding the cam synchronizer and holder thingy (spacers) 3 minutes. It is a 10MM bolt/socket, along with a medium-long extension. Don't drop the bolt down there.

11. Pull out the old part...2 minutes. Twist left and right, left and right a bit while pulling upward. It's not so tough, really!

12. Mark the new part with white out on the exact same spots as old part, allow to dry 5 minutes.

13. Oil shaft of new part...30 seconds. (Allow excess oil to drain off of part if needed to avoid dripping oil all over yourself and/or vehicle).

14. Install new part in exact same spot as old part (all lined up correctly inside and outside with engine....about 2 minutes. Wipe off the white out after you have it in there, if you have a rag with some carb cleaner or something like that, I cleaned most of it off just in case, although it's no biggie IMHO. Spray the rag, wipe the part, don't spray a bunch on the part.

13. Put the 10 MM bolt back in along with spacer thingy. Tighten it down snug..2 minutes.

14. Put new sensor on the synchro, tighten down the 5.5 mm bolts firm but do not break them!! About 2-3 minutes.

15. Install wiring clip back onto the synchro sensor! It won't work without it!!! Lol 30 seconds or so.

16. Put everything else back the way it was (coolant house, throttle cables, coolant temp sensor, plug wires, throttle cover (plastic dilly bobber): about 5 minutes. And don't forget the battery negative terminal!

17. GO on test drive and love it! Nice quiet idle and a little bit more torque off the line than it was since it had been squeaking.

Note about pics; first pic is old part with white out makred as specified and on engine block. 2nd and 3rd pic are new part that I marked before installing.

The old part had a bit of oil in the top of it, and was sqeaking when I turn it by hand. The sensor had some ash/soot deposits, kind of a purple color to it deposit on the magnet.
 

Attachments

#181 ·
...snip...

6. Bend wiring loom/harness up and out of way, hold it firmly with one hand 1 Minute.

...snip...

First, thanks to all for the great info in this thread, it has definitely saved me a few hundred bucks in the shop. Specifically, thanks to supersmacker for the step-by-step walk-through. I found the Haynes manual to be inadequate for this particular job.

Just a general comment for the next person taking this on... the above step was a SERIOUS pain in the butt for me. I struggled with getting the harness out of the way due to the plastic channel it sits in. It took me about an hour to figure out how to get it up high enough to get at the synchronizer & sensor. I ended up just saying eff it, & applying some serious elbow grease to get it out of the way.

Total time for this job for me was about 3.5hr --- I'm not a mechanic & I ended up having a neighbor talking with me for about 2 hours; combine that with the fact that I was taking my time to begin with, so I have no doubt that people could get this done in an hour.

I'd think that just about anyone that knew their way around the business end of a socket set could take on this job in an hour or two.

Thanks again! :)
 
#166 ·
Awesome instructions for fixing this problem. My 2002 Sable started chirping 4 days ago and now it is fixed! As suggested earlier in this blog I used https://www.silverstatefordparts.com/oem-Ford-parts.html to order OEM Ford parts (very quick at replying to email requests for verification of part numbers for the camshaft synchronizer and sensor). Total cost was under $150 including 2 day shipping.

As someone who has never worked on cars before I found the fix pretty straightforward except for one part. How do you properly move the hard plastic conduit that rests on top of the sensor out of the way? I ended up breaking the bottom component while trying to move it and I am very interested in learning the proper method used to move this piece.

Also, as far as the alignment of the synchronizer gear teeth, is there a way to tell if you have the correct orientation? It seemed for me as if the outer ring would not line up exactly with the mark I had on the engine. It would be off on one side or the other with the rotation of 1 tooth. I settled with the orientation that was closest, but I'm not 100% convinced that it is in the exact way as the old part (and yes it is snugly in place resting on the correct surface). Will the engine "let me know" subtly if it is not right or will it just crash on me?

So far I have driven a few miles and it sounds great. Any wisdom or advice you guys can give me will be greatly appreciated.
 
#168 · (Edited)
My 99 Tauras has 152,000 and is still going strong, it has had some maintenance done here is a quick run down on what I have replaced. (all work done by myself) 2 Alternators, 1 water pump, 1 starter, Both lower Ball joints, cam position assembly, Idle air control valve, new hoses, metal heater hose assembly, Front brakes twice, and rear brakes once. A few parts but cheaper than a car payment. Consumable parts belts & filter service not included in list. As some people think these cars are POS's they just need to be taken care of and need the routine maintenance kept up on. They do have some issues but what car made doesn't. I bought it in 2000 with 6000 miles on it and will keep it until the wheels fall off.
 
#170 ·
Is this real or an unorthadox plug for a mfg's part?

How did you replace the part on 12-13-07 (On 12-14 you said "Last Night").
The "Update" dated 12-15 - one day later indicates your wife's car had traveled 4000 miles. Can it be? Did I miss something? Please let me know because I want to know whether to rely on this info.
 
#171 ·
Is this real or an unorthadox plug for a mfg's part?

How did you replace the part on 12-13-07 (On 12-14 you said "Last Night").
The "Update" dated 12-15 - one day later indicates your wife's car had traveled 4000 miles. Can it be? Did I miss something? Please let me know because I want to know whether to rely on this info.

I updated the post(12-15) at the start of the thread after a few months.. to keep the info at the start of the thread...

Im all about truth. Why would I plug manufac. part? Im not making any money ....lol:headscratch:

Trying to save fellow members from a certain engine disaster.:forum_Logo:
 
#173 ·
Sorry - it was just a question, I 'm all about the truth too and just didn't understand the timing. While I'm new here I did have experience on an industry help/discussion forum and guess I've become a skeptical as there were many self-serving posts there and even outright deceit as at least one mfg posed as customers saying how great their product was. Thanks for the info though, it was a great post. While I did find some info about this issue elsewhere it is really this forum, your post and others here that have given me the confidence to really go forward on this. Previously when I started digging into this problem as I tried to fix it, it just created more questions, some of which I may have been able to make assumptions and move forward, but nothing like the info here. Thanks a bunch!
 
#175 ·
Wish you would have wished the good luck BEFORE I installed the synchronizer. And I wish I had dry fitted the cap (CPS) before install too. Can you believe the motorcraft part I bought wasn't made right?

The square part inside the cps does not fit into the outer ring/lip of the camshaft synchronizer - supplier doesn't have one on hand - will deliver to local store Monday afternoon. I don't know about how much effort others put into it, but playing with that thing in such a hard place to work was a pain - I don't mind the work especially the first time but this is just wasted time the second time.
Note: my pkg said it was made in Jul 08 - maybe they had a mfg issue and this has just been sitting on the obsolete shelf and someone didn't know why and slipped it back into good stock?
 
#176 ·
Scanned through all pages but didn't see any mention of it, has anyone tried the cam syncros from Richporter Technologies? As a parts guy, I've sold RPT's stuff in the past, most distributors for Hondas (Theirs come complete with rotor, cap and coil for pretty close to the same price as A1's reman which lacks those).
 
#180 ·
Ok, I read some earlier posts in this thread and did see that some were getting an oil dash light and code as I would suspect based on the function of the part.

I am thinking that my problem was not the infamous synchronizer since I recall that my AC compressor clutch seized up around that time so my squeak was probably from the bearing wearing out in that clutch.
 
#182 ·

Attachments

#183 ·
Camshaft sychronizer replaced but problem returned

I had a multiple random misfire code, was advised to replace the cam sensor. I replaced it and the car ran get for a few miles and the started running rough and acting like it had before. Looking on these blogs i felt a camshaft sychronizer was needing replaced, took care of that the the car was running great again. This lasted a few days, about 30-50 miles. It's running rough again and I'm not sure what i should do next.

It may be coincidence, this all happened right after an oil chane from walmart. when i pulled the synchronizer out, it was extremely gunked up so i felt that was probably the issue.

The car has 179,000 miles, 1997 Ford Taurus GL.

Thanks/ billyjoelmo@yahoo.com
 
#184 ·
I had a multiple random misfire code, was advised to replace the cam sensor. I replaced it and the car ran get for a few miles and the started running rough and acting like it had before. Looking on these blogs i felt a camshaft sychronizer was needing replaced, took care of that the the car was running great again. This lasted a few days, about 30-50 miles. It's running rough again and I'm not sure what i should do next.

It may be coincidence, this all happened right after an oil chane from walmart. when i pulled the synchronizer out, it was extremely gunked up so i felt that was probably the issue.

The car has 179,000 miles, 1997 Ford Taurus GL.

Thanks/ billyjoelmo@yahoo.com
If your synchronizer was gunked up, it could be due to water in the oil. Which could be from head issue, which would cause rough running....BUT before you do anything pull the codes from your OBD2 computer.
 
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