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Alert! Dorman Cam Synchronizer Assembly!

191K views 233 replies 118 participants last post by  Pro Ford 
#1 ·
Fellow Members,
I installed 3 new Dorman(CHINESE) syncro units back the 2nd week of October (2) #689-104 (1996-1997 3.0L Vulcan) and (1) #689-107 (this was for a 98 3.0L Vulcan) . I put one in my brothers 97 GL, 1 in my mother-in-laws 97GL an the other into my mothers 98 SE.
The reason I went a head and chaged these 3 is in a thread I made about my wifes GL Here>Read Here
Fast forward to last night, my brother said his car was leaking oil horribly. I checked it out and it was coming out of the sensor on top the new syncro. When I pulled the sensor off it was completly full of oil. WTF! I yanked the syncro unit out and I was totally Horrified. The roll pin in the gear was split in half and falling out of the gear and the gear was loose on the damn shaft....this is a press fit application(supposed to be). It also wore the thrust washer on top the gear. JUNKED! 2500 miles. I was fortunate it did not grenade his engine.

So I go pick up the mother-in-laws and pulled it out.....the freaking gear was loose on that one and had play in it also...not totally failed yet but was already stressing the pin horribly and it has oil weeping under the sensor already. JUNK #2. around 1500 miles.

I then go pick up my mothers 98 and you guessed it...the freaking pin and gear are loose here also...JUNK.

These units WILL FAIL! I fortunatly had all the old units lying on a shelf and put them back in till my Reman units(A1 Cardone...USA) come in Monday. The parts house was astonished but not suprised....loose tolerances and sub-standard metallargy.

Do yourself a favor if you are using one remove it and inspect it ASAP! I could understand finding a bad part out of a barrel but all three is a whole other ballgame.
BTW, Im going to pull the Reman-Napa(actually A1 Cardone) out of my wifes tommorow to see how it looks. I BET it is perfectly fine.
Yours Truly,
Pro Ford
 
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#127 ·
The synchronizer tells the computer when to fire the spark plugs and which spark plug to fire. It needs to be positioned correctly or it'll fire at the wrong time or the wrong plug and damage the engine.
 
#129 ·
Thanks to everyone that has contributed to this thread. Without the heads up I may have ended up with the POS Dorman unit. I replaced the cam synchronizer in my wife's 2003 Sable last night and used the Cardone reman unit which, as previously stated, is quite obviously a Motorcraft part. Took me about an hour start to finish. It's nice to have that infernal chirping sound go away.
 
#130 ·
QUOTE (Pro Ford @ Mar 3 2008, 10:55 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=600563
More Dorman Synchro Assemblies in a different application failing...... :angryfire: read thru this thread and you shall see

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=207905

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1847924




http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/...911#post5656911


I hate to beat the dead horse but it needs to be brought to light.....if the American Public starts rejecting this type of crap eventually just maby we could make some things again right here in the USA! Its not just DORMAN...most all companys are outsourced to the CHINESE......its a damn shame whats its came to. I challenge each and everyone of you members to start looking at the place of manufacure on ANYTHING you buy....mostly Chinese and if not some other off shore country. This is not the reason i started the thread but its seems to have got me to this challenge.

I tried to buy a damn bearing locally to put in my tentioner pulley only Chinese was available.....3 different brand names....... I would like at least to find something other than Chinese.........[/b]
actually i think a more accurate critisism of chinese parts would be the specs and price that the American companies are giving the chinese to manufacture parts.
I suspect the chinese could make good parts if they were asked / paid to.
 
#131 ·
QUOTE (tesmith @ Oct 14 2009, 05:51 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=760108
QUOTE (Pro Ford @ Mar 3 2008, 10:55 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=600563
More Dorman Synchro Assemblies in a different application failing...... :angryfire: read thru this thread and you shall see

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=207905

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1847924




http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/...911#post5656911


I hate to beat the dead horse but it needs to be brought to light.....if the American Public starts rejecting this type of crap eventually just maby we could make some things again right here in the USA! Its not just DORMAN...most all companys are outsourced to the CHINESE......its a damn shame whats its came to. I challenge each and everyone of you members to start looking at the place of manufacure on ANYTHING you buy....mostly Chinese and if not some other off shore country. This is not the reason i started the thread but its seems to have got me to this challenge.

I tried to buy a damn bearing locally to put in my tentioner pulley only Chinese was available.....3 different brand names....... I would like at least to find something other than Chinese.........[/b]
actually i think a more accurate critisism of chinese parts would be the specs and price that the American companies are giving the chinese to manufacture parts.
I suspect the chinese could make good parts if they were asked / paid to.
[/b][/quote]
Chinese parts are all pretty much CRAP. I have been working on cars for too many years and the difference between American (or even North American made) and Chinese is night and day. its not the Chinese people's fault (they just got o work to make a living like we do) it is the fact that Americans are too cheap to buy the one made here, or ignorant of the fact that the more crap you buy from the dollar tree the more $ you send to China and the more CRAP they flood our market with. When you flip it over and see made in China and it costs half the $ as the American part consider this:


No metallurgist to tell manufacturers how much nickel cadmium should be added so that the bearing/gears/whatever doesn't turn into mush
No union history/imprint (love em or hate em they are what curved the industrial revolution here and gave us the weekend/rest) so you've got people working sweat shop conditions and a communist government that subsidizes industry so that at any cost profit is made.

I just bought Timken Bearings for my Bronco, I was glad to pay $5 extra for each and know that someone here gets a fair wage. The Autozone (storebrand) Bearings where literally half the cost of the American ones, but considering that the ones I took off the Bronco where chinese and had lasted all of 3 months - and almost caused a crash when they seized - I have been way more conscientious about where it comes from...
 
#132 ·
US Marketing companies issuing wrong specs and accepting the lowest bid from "suspect" manufacturing companies is not the problem with Chinese Made Parts. The Problem with Chinese Made Parts is well documented in the toy industry. Have you noticed the huge number of Recalls of toys manufactured in China? The US Toy manufacturer develops a toy, and sends out an RFQ (Request For Proposal). Companies read teh RFQ, and respond with a Proposal. Often the RFQ requires sample items. The US Toy Company picks a manufacturer based on company internally developed policies and specifications (low bidder?). The Chinese Company sends some samples, and the first shipment is usually conforming the US Toy Company Specs. A/few shipments down the line, the US Company stops inspecting each shipment, and the Chinese Company changes it materials to save a few pennies per unit without informing the US Toy Company (like changing to lead based paint because lead is used to brighten colors inexpensively).

This poor quality product problem is exaggerated by Ignorant US Consumers. People here are buying the least expensive products they can find ASSUMING THAT ANY PRODUCT THEY CAN FIND FOR SALE IS OF GOOD QUALITY, SAFE, AND ACCEPTABLE. NOT TRUE ! ! ! When you don't pay attention to what's in the box you're buying, and not just getting the cheapest box on the shelf, you're going to get hurt, or ripped-off every time. It is not the responsibility of the US Government to make sure that you don't buy poison, or junk, that's your responsibility, regardless of whether you're buying toys, appliances, computers, car parts, or food.

Want better stuff? Demand it at the store. Vote with your wallet. Look in the box before you buy, and if you find crap, go to the store's management, point out the problem, and tell them that you aren't going to buy from the store, and this is why. Then walk away. The Management of the store will wise up, and supply a better product, or go out of business.

QUOTE (tesmith @ Oct 14 2009, 05:51 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=760108
QUOTE (Pro Ford @ Mar 3 2008, 10:55 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=600563
More Dorman Synchro Assemblies in a different application failing...... :angryfire: read thru this thread and you shall see

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=207905

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1847924




http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/...911#post5656911


I hate to beat the dead horse but it needs to be brought to light.....if the American Public starts rejecting this type of crap eventually just maby we could make some things again right here in the USA! Its not just DORMAN...most all companys are outsourced to the CHINESE......its a damn shame whats its came to. I challenge each and everyone of you members to start looking at the place of manufacure on ANYTHING you buy....mostly Chinese and if not some other off shore country. This is not the reason i started the thread but its seems to have got me to this challenge.

I tried to buy a damn bearing locally to put in my tentioner pulley only Chinese was available.....3 different brand names....... I would like at least to find something other than Chinese.........[/b]
actually i think a more accurate critisism of chinese parts would be the specs and price that the American companies are giving the chinese to manufacture parts.
I suspect the chinese could make good parts if they were asked / paid to.
[/b][/quote]
 
#134 ·
Ok, I want to first of all start off by saying that I too purchased a dorman synchronizer for my 00 sable 3.0 U engine. the first one had the distributor gear shear off.. The 2nd one that I replaced that one with ( I was quick enough to shut the car off and save the engine) had the infamous oil leak. Anyways, I contacted Dorman Products. If you take the time to Contact Dorman you would find out that they are more than willing to stand behind their products and are ready to do so. I was informed that my part number given to me by my parts store was an part that had not been updated. Dorman has updated the part to first correct the concern of the gear and roll pin issue. Now they have Re-engineered the seal in the Synchronizer to address the leak issue. If you get a new updated Synchronizer it will have had the updates and it will be as good as any out there. All I did was contact them with my concerns and I recieved several concerns from Marty there and he made sure I was happy and replaced my part with the new updated one as the parts store should have in the first place. After dealing with Dorman and their Customer Service I wouldnt give buying any of their parts a second thought because I know that they would be willing to back it up. I happen to be a former dealer tech of 12 years, 3 at GM, 6 at Ford and 3 at Chrysler. I now am not working as a Tech due to some Medical issues so i am doing some other things. I just wanted to post this to give you my experience with Dorman. Yes I did have failures, but it turns out I wasnt given the updated part that the parts store had, they gave me old stock. The part number I was given 689-107 has actually been updated to 689-117. If I had been given the updated part I may have never had an issue. I am putting the updated part in my car with no concerns as I know that if I do have a problem I know that it is from a company that stands behind theiir products and customers. Just my story and you can take it with a grains of salt. Thanks again Marty at Dorman Products.
 
#135 ·
Hi,
So I've got a 98 Vulcan with 180,000 miles on it. This is the first I'm hearing about this issue. I have no chirping sounds or anything, but if this is such an issue, I'd like to replace it while I can.

I checked the Haynes manual, and they don't seem to have much more than a mention of how to replace it. It says something like "if you ever need to replace it, timing is needed".

So does anyone have, or know of a writeup of how to replace this. Pictures would be a great help. I can't even seem to locate it.

Thanks.
 
#136 ·
QUOTE (steelstr45 @ Dec 15 2009, 04:14 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=773598
Hi,
So I've got a 98 Vulcan with 180,000 miles on it. This is the first I'm hearing about this issue. I have no chirping sounds or anything, but if this is such an issue, I'd like to replace it while I can.

I checked the Haynes manual, and they don't seem to have much more than a mention of how to replace it. It says something like "if you ever need to replace it, timing is needed".

So does anyone have, or know of a writeup of how to replace this. Pictures would be a great help. I can't even seem to locate it.

Thanks.[/b]

the synchronizer is where the Distributor would be on a Distritbutor style ignition. It is underneath the throttle body. you will see the engine wiring harness plastic housing. This goes right over the top of the synchronizer/CMP sensor. It will have either a 3 wire or 2 wire sensor. take the CMP sensor off ( 2- 5.5mm screws) then mark the location of the reluctor flag in relation to the housing. Then when you replace it you just put the new one in at the same position and you are good to go. The synchronizer is held in by one 10mm headed bolt with an attached washer. The placement of the synchronizer is at the drivers side of the engine block right where the lower intake ends. I remove the throttle cable and Cruise control cable, then I use a prybar and pry up the engine wiring harness and retainer to get to the synchronizer. about a 20 minute job. Also at Dorman, they tell you to soak the new Synchronzier in fresh oil for a bit before installation. I soaked it for about a half hour in 10w20 motor oil. then just tipped it upside down untill the cavity dripped out all of the oil and installed it. it's been over 8,000 miles and I have had no noise, no oil leaks and no gear issues with the updated Dorman part.
 
#137 ·
QUOTE (fordman4i9450 @ Dec 15 2009, 04:27 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=773599
the synchronizer is where the Distributor would be on a Distritbutor style ignition. It is underneath the throttle body. you will see the engine wiring harness plastic housing. This goes right over the top of the synchronizer/CMP sensor. It will have either a 3 wire or 2 wire sensor. take the CMP sensor off ( 2- 5.5mm screws) then mark the location of the reluctor flag in relation to the housing. Then when you replace it you just put the new one in at the same position and you are good to go. The synchronizer is held in by one 10mm headed bolt with an attached washer. The placement of the synchronizer is at the drivers side of the engine block right where the lower intake ends. I remove the throttle cable and Cruise control cable, then I use a prybar and pry up the engine wiring harness and retainer to get to the synchronizer. about a 20 minute job. Also at Dorman, they tell you to soak the new Synchronzier in fresh oil for a bit before installation. I soaked it for about a half hour in 10w20 motor oil. then just tipped it upside down untill the cavity dripped out all of the oil and installed it. it's been over 8,000 miles and I have had no noise, no oil leaks and no gear issues with the updated Dorman part.[/b]

Thank you very much!
 
#138 ·
Dorman should have recalled the ill fated assemblies they have out there instead of letting autopart suppliers keep hurting the public. They are still failing in unsuspecting customers engines Im sure.
Have they ponied up any replacement engines....I bet not.

I WILL NOT be using any critical engine components with thier Label..."Chinese Made particularly"

Dorman does have some decent products but this is not one of them....period.

Not going to bash...just my experiences.

and my opinion.

TN.
 
#139 ·
QUOTE (Pro Ford @ Dec 15 2009, 08:21 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=773652
Dorman should have recalled the ill fated assemblies they have out there instead of letting autopart suppliers keep hurting the public. They are still failing in unsuspecting customers engines Im sure.
Have they ponied up any replacement engines....I bet not.

I WILL NOT be using any critical engine components with thier Label..."Chinese Made particularly"

Dorman does have some decent products but this is not one of them....period.

Not going to bash...just my experiences.

and my opinion.

TN.[/b]

They should have recalled them. I don't like seeing "made in china" on stuff I buy either, but it's like impossible to get stuff that's not without spending crazy amounts of money.

Just one example, I was trying to get a new PCV grommet. I went to the dealership and they wanted $20 for it! That's insane. I just went to RockAuto and got a Dorman one for like $3. Yeah it was made in china, but worth it in that case.

I know that's not really a product that anyone could mess up making, but it just shows how insanely jacked up US costs are.

And then there's the fact that the original Motorcraft syncro part is what is failing on the Tauruses by 100k itself. It may be US made, but it's still got its own quality issues. I think if Dorman fixed the issues, I wouldn't mind trying one out if the cost difference is that great. If it's a difference of $5 or $10 I'll obviously go Motorcraft, but if there's a large difference like with my grommet, then I'd rather save the money.
 
#140 ·
My car started making the dreaded noise. Thanks to the folks that have posted on the site with all the information about the synchronizer problems. Like most thought it was a water pump, belt, ect. To hear this on the drivers side threw me. Than got on line and found the site. I ordered the motorcraft parts and will do the repair myself. But why dose this stuff happen in the winter and snowing? It had all summer to break down. Just Turned 89000 on the Taurus. First problem I had with it. I'll post my efforts on the repair after I get the parts. Merry Christmas to all. Thanks Dan
 
#141 ·
I am in a quandry, I am picking up the 2004 Taurus today after a $600 coolant leak repair at the timing chain cover. The shop tells me the squeak that I asked to check while doing this work might be the tensioner they tell me it is not the tensioner but it is the Cam sensor. From reading this thread this is most likely a good diagnosis. First what should the cost be to repair this and second at 84k miles should I buy my first Japanese car? These issues should not arise on a 84k car. This is my third Taurus, and I am ready give up on Ford.
 
#142 ·
QUOTE (Pro Ford @ Jan 13 2008, 10:31 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=581360
QUOTE (Pro Ford @ Dec 14 2007, 07:12 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=571343
Fellow Members,
I installed 3 new Dorman(CHINESE) syncro units back the 2nd week of October (2) #689-104 (1996-1997 3.0L Vulcan) and (1) #689-107 (this was for a 98 3.0L Vulcan) . I put one in my brothers 97 GL, 1 in my mother-in-laws 97GL an the other into my mothers 98 SE.
The reason I went a head and chaged these 3 is in a thread I made about my wifes GL Here>Read Here
Fast forward to last night, my brother said his car was leaking oil horribly. I checked it out and it was coming out of the sensor on top the new syncro. When I pulled the sensor off it was completly full of oil. WTF! I yanked the syncro unit out and I was totally Horrified. The roll pin in the gear was split in half and falling out of the gear and the gear was loose on the damn shaft....this is a press fit application(supposed to be). It also wore the thrust washer on top the gear. JUNKED! 2500 miles. I was fortunate it did not grenade his engine.

So I go pick up the mother-in-laws and pulled it out.....the freaking gear was loose on that one and had play in it also...not totally failed yet but was already stressing the pin horribly and it has oil weeping under the sensor already. JUNK #2. around 1500 miles.

I then go pick up my mothers 98 and you guessed it...the freaking pin and gear are loose here also...JUNK.

These units WILL FAIL! I fortunatly had all the old units lying on a shelf and put them back in till my Reman units(A1 Cardone...USA) come in Monday. The parts house was astonished but not suprised....loose tolerances and sub-standard metallargy.

Do yourself a favor if you are using one remove it and inspect it ASAP! I could understand finding a bad part out of a barrel but all three is a whole other ballgame.
BTW, Im going to pull the Reman-Napa(actually A1 Cardone) out of my wifes tommorow to see how it looks. I BET it is perfectly fine.
Yours Truly,
Pro Ford[/b]
Just to bring back my first post......ABOVE
These units are JUNK please do yourself a favor and take them out. I was fortunate enough he(my brother) brought his car back down to me when he did. The oil leaking like a waterfall is the sign its goin south fast. Im not joking.....the roll pin was broken in half and falling out ........Im getting pretty pissed the more i see new unfortunate souls that have installed them and having them fail.
I should have pursued the situation and tried to re-coupe my time and labor involved with the 3 cars I had to deal with that I had installed thier JUNK in. It was a big waste of my time. Time is money to a mechanic (side job out of my shop)like myself.
I should have took pics of all that crap......I guess Im too late now.
[/b][/quote]

Jumping in with a question:

I've been hearing the chirp since around 12/22 or so. Putting anywhere from 25-50 miles on it per day while working, and on 01/05 took a trip of around 400 miles round trip.

On 01/06 I started it to have it warm up before leaving the house, and heard hammering. Checked the oil, she was a quart low. No one can tell me without eyeballing, I know, but if I'm following you all correctly, either the original is in that bad of shape or it's already been replaced and the replacement part is shiite. Is my logic correct?

I haven't checked the oil today, but I intend to.

If the car went through a quart of oil from 12/16 to 01/06 and it is leaking from the synchro, how many miles would you guesstimate I have before there is permanent engine damage?

In order to order the part and pay the labor this week or next, I'll have to forgo a utility bill or two, or... something. If it can probably wait a couple weeks, I will, just so I'm not behind.

Thoughts, anyone?

ALSO:
AutoZone has the Cardone synchro for $52.99, and the position sensor (Duralast) for $21.99. I know I read the A1 Cardone is actually a Ford part, right? But with all the posts and threads I've read, I'm trying to remember if there was a warning about using the Cardone part. I can't find it, but the feeling of Danger! Don't do it! is still there. I keep looking for the posts, but I feel the clock ticking.

Found a shop that estimated $50 labor for the work. O.O
 
#143 ·
Took it to a mechanic today who said he could replace the camshaft synchronizer - labor cost of $30 to $50. But today, for the first time since it began around 12/22/09, it isn't chirping.

He looked at the sensor. "It's usually the sensor and this one is fine." I told him what I'd learned here, and basically begged him to check synchro. He eyeballed it without pulling it, said it's fine. No oil, dry as a bone, no metal shavings, etc. Didn't want to pull it and replace it because he does not believe me. After all, I'm a woman who learned about all this on the internet.

I went to the Ford dealership, spoke with a mechanic briefly. I didn't have to even tell the whole story, he not only believed me but finished my sentence for me. Pulled a bad one from the shop and showed it to me. Told me he'd just replaced one on a Taurus a couple of hours before, it's common.

I cannot afford $130 for their labor, much less $188 for their part. I am now not sure if I should trust the mechanic I took it to this morning who refused to pull the part and eye it out of the car.

Should I take it back to him and beg him to replace the part whether he believes me or not, or search for another mechanic? I am so worried sick that I am literally sick at my stomach. Any experienced advice from you guys? Please?
 
#144 ·
You really need to read the whole thread to understand what's been going on. Ford sells the CPS (camshaft position sensor) and Synchroshaft as two separate parts and charges you for two parts.

Dorman sells a newly manufactured Chinese made Synchroshaft/CPS Assembly, which includes the two parts that Ford sells separately. This is the Dorman part that fails. The Dorman part is repackaged and sold under many different Brand Names.

Cardone sells a new part (that you should avoid), in their Cardone Select line of new parts, which is the INFERIOR Dorman unit in a new box. Cardone also rebuilds used Genuine Ford Synchroshafts with a new CPS as an assembly, with a Lifetime Warranty. This is the product that I am recommending. It appears that when Cardone is short on inventory of remanufactured Synchroshaft/CPS Assemblies, they substitute brand new Ford Synchroshaft/CPS assemblies.

So the only new Synchroshafts and CPS (sold seperately) that I would buy are the Genuine Ford parts. Any other NEW Synchroshaft/CPS Assembly that you find for sale is almost guarenteed to be the inferior Dorman Assembly, regardless of the name on the box.

You cannot tell if a Synchroshaft/CPS is defective or wornout without removing it. If someone were to tell me that they could tell by looking at it on a engine, I would run away. Wornout Genuine Ford Synchroshafts do not leak oil, and do not shed metal shaving to the outside. They do squeek in the first stages of wearout/failure as a warning, and at the end when they aren't driving the oil pump, they make no noise at all.

If it's been more than 80K miles since the Synchroshaft and CPS have been replaced, and you hear the squeek, then you should go ahead and replace it. If it been over 110K miles, and you can't hear the squeek, you should replace it immediately.
 
#179 ·
You cannot tell if a Synchroshaft/CPS is defective or wornout without removing it. If someone were to tell me that they could tell by looking at it on a engine, I would run away. Wornout Genuine Ford Synchroshafts do not leak oil, and do not shed metal shaving to the outside. They do squeek in the first stages of wearout/failure as a warning, and at the end when they aren't driving the oil pump, they make no noise at all.
If they do not make any noise at all when they aren't driving the oil pump,
are there any engine or driving symptoms that will tell you if there has been a failure? Will an oil lamp light on the dash or will it through a code?

Probably a year or two ago I had the squeak that seems to be the same as described in some of the threads relating to this problem. The car had maybe 60k miles at the time, the problem went away at about 65k...not sure why... about the only thing I did was add STP fuel injector cleaner but I don't think that would make a difference with the squeak...the car, '04 Sable, now has 82K and no signs of problems that I can tell.
 
#145 ·
QUOTE (gohim @ Jan 15 2010, 12:00 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=779357
Cardone sells a new part (that you should avoid), in their Cardone Select line of new parts, which is the INFERIOR Dorman unit in a new box. Cardone also rebuilds used Genuine Ford Synchroshafts with a new CPS as an assembly, with a Lifetime Warranty. This is the product that I am recommending. It appears that when Cardone is short on inventory of remanufactured Synchroshaft/CPS Assemblies, they substitute brand new Ford Synchroshaft/CPS assemblies.

So the only new Synchroshafts and CPS (sold seperately) that I would buy are the Genuine Ford parts. Any other NEW Synchroshaft/CPS Assembly that you find for sale is almost guarenteed to be the inferior Dorman Assembly, regardless of the name on the box.[/b]
I pulled of the cam position sensor last weekend due to an OBD code (no chirping sounds or drivability issues). The sensor magnet was broken off & the synchronizer shaft target was mangled. I bought a remanufactured Cardone gear and sensor assembly for $70 at AutoZone, but the gear assembly was slightly different and wouldn't quite fit into the hole. It was the only one at that AutoZone, so I went to another Autozone that had one armed with digital calipers and my old one to do a dimensional check, but the reman unit they had was TOTALLY different.

In the end I went with a new Motorcraft syncro gear and sensor for $174 - OUCH! So at this point I wouldn't recommend a remanufactured Cardone either. Just bite the bullet and go with a new Motorcraft syncro gear. I agree that this design sucks.
 
#146 ·
Was the Synchroshaft a Ford part with the Ford part numbers ground off? Or, were the parts smooth, without any number ground off?

The Chinese made Dorman synchroshafts sold by Cardone as new Cardone Select Synchroshafts do not have cast/molded numbers on them that are ground-off as the Ford parts numbers are removed from the Genuine Ford Parts. Early Dorman synchroshafts were noted as being slightly oversized ( see early posts from years ago), and needing some work before they could be fit into the hole in the engine. Perhaps Cardone is using some Dorman synchroshafts for rebuilding?

I know from experience that Cardone was supplying some brand-new Genuine Ford synchroshafts (with the Ford trademark and part number ground off) as rebuilts, as I got one of those. I didn't expect that to last forever.

So, I suggest getting a Cardone Rebuilt still. BUT, look at the part in the box, before you pay for it and leave the store. ONLY ACCEPT/BUY a Cardone Rebuilt IF, AND ONLY IF you can check the box to make sure that you're getting a Genuine Ford part with the Ford trademark and part numbers ground off. The marks from grinding the Ford Part number off are obvious.

If the parts are totally smooth, WITHOUT the grind marks from removing the Ford part numbers, DON'T ACCEPT IT.
 
#147 ·
Hi Everyone,
I was on here in september when my 2003 Taurus started chirping, did my research here and decided to go to NAPA for a remanufactured cardone unit. When I got the cardone unit it was modified in a way I didn't trust. They actually cut a ford core (or it looked like one) machined a new top section and held it in place by one small set screw and what appeared to be loctite. I being a retired mechanic was too skeptical to risk catastophic engine failure on their redesign, so I returned it to NAPA. I searched the internet and found the genuine ford parts pretty reasonable at:
<https://www.silverstatefordparts.com/oem-Ford-parts.html> They're in TEXAS I believe. I ended up calling them on the phone to make sure I was getting the correct parts for my VIN and the guy was VERY knowledgable and helpful. I paid $96.99 for the F8DZ12A362AA Synchronizer, $19.60 for the 1F1Z6B288BA Sensor assy and $14.57 shipping for a total = $131.16. Well as the Wisconsin winter sub-zero temps set in the chirping stopped, so of course I put the job off, I wasn't using the car very often since I drive my 4x4 truck in the winter. Then a week ago when temps came up to around the freezing mark or above (in the 30's) it started again but, not as loud as in our warm September. So, I decided to finally change it out and found it to be an EASY job (under 2 hours). I didn't have to disconnect the throttle body or upper intake manifold on this 2003 model...they weren't even close to being in the way. I used zip ties to hold the wire harness out of the way. My old assy had no play in it. It was just dry and tight. I plan to disassemble it in the near future and repair it if possible. I oiled the new unit before I put it in but, I really think there's a design problem from Ford as to oiling these assys. One small hole and I don't see how it ever gets oiled in the top half of the unit. My original last 95,000 miles, so i'm not going to worry about it...it's fixed with NEW genuine FORD parts for now.

P.S.
I'm Attaching a Picture of the A1 Cardone modified unit which I returned to NAPA...they could have been on the right track to solving the problem, but I emailed their technical dept and they didn't say they did it to solve the problem, they said they did it because they run short of good cores. If they would have told me they solved fords problem I'd have probably put it in,but they, A1 Cardone, left me with a bad feeling after our email conversation.
 

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#148 ·
QUOTE (phclub @ Dec 29 2009, 12:11 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=776167
I am in a quandry, I am picking up the 2004 Taurus today after a $600 coolant leak repair at the timing chain cover. The shop tells me the squeak that I asked to check while doing this work might be the tensioner they tell me it is not the tensioner but it is the Cam sensor. From reading this thread this is most likely a good diagnosis. First what should the cost be to repair this and second at 84k miles should I buy my first Japanese car? These issues should not arise on a 84k car. This is my third Taurus, and I am ready give up on Ford.[/b]
How's Toyota doing now!! Jap cars are full of recalls you just hear now of their problems, check this link out out...
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&cli...amp;aqi=&oq
 
#149 ·
QUOTE (Pro Ford @ Dec 22 2007, 01:07 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=574226
A warranty wont do your engine anygood if it fails to drive the oil pump very long. I to have used some Dorman products in the past thats why I bought those to start with. Trust me on this one. I was horrified with the way they looked after running 2 months. The one in my brothers was almost at complete destruction. If it had not been for the massive amounts of oil seeping up thru the assembly and running out from under the sensor and on the tranny to the ground we would have not caught it. Like I said it was self destructing. The roll pin was broke and falling out and it was only by the grace of GOD we caught it before it sliped out completly. If that had happened it would have toasted the engine. The other 2 were in the process of self destruction as I stated. I dont want to beat a dead horse but only telling TRUTH. The cars I put them on are very good mecahnical condition and nothing is wrong with their engines period.........except for the junk I had installed in them...LOL
Thomas[/b]
I am confused about the failing oil pump issue because the synchro has one set of teeth which are connecting to the camshaft to time the car, so which part of the assembly runs the oil pump? Also if the teeth break off, wouldn't that make the timing go out, and make the car run poorly?
 
#150 ·
The teeth don't break off the gear. The roll pin that goes through the gear to secure it to the shaft breaks.

From what I remember, the oil pump is driven by a shaft that makes contact with the bottom of the synchroshaft. When the bushings supporting the synchroshaft wear out, the synchroshaft wobbles and does not make a secure contact with the oil pump shaft, so the oil pump shaft is not properly driven.
 
#151 ·
If the "origional" Syncro assembly wears out to certain point...the gear on the end will deflect off the cam gear and over a period of time it will wear these teeth down to a knife edge and can and will shear off....thus you loose the contact that drives your oil pump. Usually the chirpping is an early warning sign the unit is in need of replacemant...if it has already broken the sensor its deflecting enough its running severly out of tolerance and hits the sensor(and the gear is assurdly wearing down at this point).

The Dorman units will fail IMO. Yes the roll pins would shear/ break...and the overall unit was garbage top to botttom.

I was informed about this other Cardone part in the above post a little while back. I have no idea how it would perform. I would stick to a Reman with the Ford Core or go NEW Ford assembly.

You will get a check engine/service enging soon light when it wipes out the sensor. It will not effect the timing of the car.
 
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