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How To Replace Transmission Mount?

32K views 21 replies 11 participants last post by  bull geek 
#1 ·
I bought a severely abused car. I readily admit it. But after replacing several parts, I thought I could live with the car.

The car had a thumping noise at normal start/stop. I replaced both front and rear engine mounts and got rid of the thump. Both mounts were pretty bad. After a month the same noise returned. I haven't replaced the transmission mount yet just because I couldn't figure out how to remove it. If anyone has replaced it before, please advise. Thanks.

2005 vulcan
 
#2 ·
I can't help you exactly, but I am in the same boat and it's sinking!

I already replaced front and rear, and took a whack at the transmission mount (insulator is what Ford calls it). I could not get that damn thing out for the life of me. The parts guy suggested loosening the frame bolt at the front of the rail that the insulator sits on top of, where it attaches to the bumper. He said if you did that you might be able to get enough clearance to remove the insulator.

That was last summer. I haven't yet had another chance to take a look at it. My next guess is to see if it's possible to remove the insulator mount from the insulator itself. If that could be done, you might be able to slide the insulator mount toward the front or back of the car, and once it is removed there may be enough clearance to replace the insulator.

Anyone else?
 
#3 ·
This mount is the hardest of the three to replace. You MUST get the car off the ground on the front end at least, supported by jack stands on the frame rails under the car (NOT ON THE SUBFRAME!!!). Then you have to drop the whole side of the subframe onto a jack and lower it pretty much as far as you can by removing both large 18mm subframe bolts. Then you must remove the 3 or 4 bolts that go to the frame that wraps around the transmission then goes to the mount. Then remove all the bolts holding the mount in place. After that remove the frame first, then the mount should come out. You will do a LOT of moving that frame around to get it out, but it will come out. It took me 2x as long to do this mount as it did to do BOTH of the others.
 
#5 ·
reciprocating saws fix everything! lol :lol2:
 
#6 ·
Squeek,
I was doing exactly what you said. I lifted the isolator as far up as I could and loosened 2 10mm mounting bolts. It took forever but I prevailed. BUT removing the 10mm bolts 1/12 of turn at a time is one thing, and inserting them is another. I now have both old and new isolators are sitting on my driveway.

MrBoom,
I understand your instruction. But clarify one thing for me. I have already lifted the engine/transmission as high as I could and I still need a good 1" clearance. (car is suppored by the side rail, not the subframe) If I lower the subframe, will I get that additional 1"? What I mean is if the engine/transmission will not come down along with subframe.

Rephrased,
I understand lifting engine/transmission gains clearance for the transmission mount.
I also understand lowering subframe gains clearance.
Can I do both and double the clearance?
Thanks.

Then you must remove the 3 or 4 bolts that go to the frame that wraps around the transmission then goes to the mount.[/b]
I missed this part. I already started to do this as the last resort before checking the forum for replies. It's good to know that I was doing the right thing. I knew I could remove the 4 bolts but wasn't sure if I would be able to put them back in the tight spot. Since you've done it, I should be able to. Wish me a good luck so that I can complete this before midnight. Thanks.

PS: Saws-all was a joke, right? I am at my wits' end and ready to grab even a straw.
 
#7 ·
Yes, if you only need another inch of clearance then dropping the subframe will give you at least that much. When I did it, I HAD to remove that support frame going to the mount. I couldn't figure out any other way to get it out. After I did that, it was easy. If I had to do it again, I think I could do it in about 45 minutes to an hour.
 
#8 ·
Finally, I put a new transmission mount (isolator) in place. For those who plan to replace transmission mount, the key is to remove the bracket that sits on top of the isolator, whether you raise the engine or lower the subframe. 4 bolts hold this bracket to the transmission. The bottom 2 bolts are easy, but the top two have just enough clearance for an offset wrench. I do not recommend using a straight wrench. It can round the bolt head. Because they are threaded to an aluminum casting, it is not difficult to loosen them. Putting them back in tight clearance was much easier than I initially thought. You can pretty much hold them with fingers and engage first few threads.

Thanks, Mr. Boom. Before reading your reply, I already started removing the bracket. But without your reply, I would have doubts all along. YOur reply gave much confidence.

2005 Vulcan
 
#12 ·
have you thought about replacing the subframe bushings? because sometimes that will make a thunk noise on go stop conditions
[/b]
I drove the car 20 miles this afternoon and it doesn't have the banging noise any more. It it returns, I will replace subframe bushings ( and hate the car again.) By the way, because I cannot see subframe bushings, I cannot tell their condition. How do others check their bushings?


Anyway you can just cut your losses and move onto a different car?
[/b]
I have already put 100+ hours into the car. Until next problem pops up, I think I can stop hating my car. Since the car has 96k miles, I need to check synchronizer soon.

SHOZ,
I am not hating Ford or Ford engineers. 90% of the reason I hate the car is because I paid too much for the abused one. I paid at least $1000 too much. I suppose I am hating my own foolishness.
 
#15 ·
The subframe bushings are the things that those big 18mm bolts are going into. They actually come out if you pry on them with a screwdriver. Normally they just fall out like mine did. I need to replace the ones on my mom's car because that is the only thing that could be making the noises her car is still making. I already replaced struts, springs, strut mounts all the way around. I also replaced the sway bar stabilizers. And it's still making a clunky creaky sound when turning corners. That and when I did something else and took off the sub frame bolt for clearance, then bushing fell out and it was in sorry shape. It basically fell apart.
 
#17 ·
I'd cut my losses and go into something that has a better history and more reliable.
[/b]
but he said he already did 100+ hours of work, i dont think he wants to just drop it like that and move onto somthing else, even if it would work/run better.
 
#18 ·
Chances are that he will be continuing getting problem after problem until he spends enough money on it to the point where he has re-bought the car more than once.

Having a car run like that for a while is likely to cause other components (axles, bearings, etc.) to wear down quicker than normal.
 
#19 ·
madhatter,
Thanks for your concern. :) Thanks to this forum, I was able to repalce all myself. Wheel alignment was the only thing I had to pay for. Axle, ball joint, motor mount, end link, etc., I did them all. Weather strips, visor, etc, came from junk yard. :) Spark plugs, filters, aux transcooler, rotors/pad, etc. are maintenance items. As far as repair is not engine internal or transmission internal, and as far as I don't have to pay for labor, repairs are not that expensive.

Both of my children are leaving school next month. In the worst case I can buy myself a new car! Recommend me a new car!

So folks, next time I post a repair question, reply promptly! :) Otherwise, I may hate my car and SAW IT ALL OFF.

Thanks to all.

PS: I heard chirping sound for the first time on my way home this afternoon. Now I need to search for cam synchronizer threads. :)
 
#22 ·
A subframe is what the engine and transmission essentially bolt on to. It's a cradle. Some call it the K frame. The subframe bushings or isolators go between the subframe and the "frame rails" of the car. They absorb some of the NVH if you have stock bushings.
 
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