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Old 01-02-2013, 04:19 PM   #1 (permalink)
Sam
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Member Number: 49890
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Default Breeves002's 2000 Sable

I (used to) drive a 2000 Mercury Sable LS Premium. Every feature (except side airbags), and the 24v DOHC Duratec Engine. Sold it April 18, 2013 with 142,5xx miles and got a 2008 Mercury Sable Premier as an upgrade.

I'll include maintenance updates as well as anything cosmetic... really anything! Just about 137k miles on the odometer as of January 2013.

A little back story on the car: My grandpa purchased it new in early 2000 (was a early built one, built in late 99) with almost every feature as I stated above. He drove it 90k miles until 2007 when he had a stroke and just really stopped doing a whole lot. He loaned the car to my dad (dad's car was totaled recently due to a tree falling on it), and my dad drove the car until August 2012 when I got it and actually purchased it for $1000 from my grandparents. I used the car from 09-12 a good amount of the time even though it was my dads mainly. I got a great deal on it!

This is my car's interior (before some mods):




I'm getting new door panels to fix the busted vinyl above. I found some, just have to put them on.

I swapped out my black on black cluster for a silver face, silver bezel one. This included removing the old, rolling the new ODO and recalibrating the speedo. I also put some flat white LED's in to brighten things up. Thanks to bull geek on TCCA for his write up on how to remove the gen 4 cluster!

Old cluster - ugly:


Dash torn apart and everything out. CAUTION if you have Traction Control, don't overlook it! I almost ripped out the whole wire when I pulled the dash off:


Old cluster and new cluster, new one doesn't have silver bezel on yet:


I matched my milage:


Rolling the ODO:


New cluster before speedo calibration, notice how my ABS and TC decided to work! I haven't seen that ABS light turn on in SO LONG! They both decided to stop working when I went to test the TC. As soon as the TC should have kicked in, they both stopped working of course!


Back of the cluster, you pull the bulbs out by pushing in and turning counter clockwise:



Cluster at 60mph with speedo calibrated, both VSS to scan tool and iPhone GPS say I'm going 60 when the speedo reads 60. Notice the needle seems off center of the base. I can't figure out why since the speedo looks right and is calibrated correctly.


At night with lights on, still green... hoping to rid that soon!


New cluster in night of:


New cluster in next day:
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Sam

2008 Mercury Sable Premier
2012 Kia Soul Base AT 1.6GDI
2004 Acura TSX 2.4
Moved On: 2000 Sable LS Premium Duratec

Last edited by Sam; 04-21-2013 at 07:00 PM.
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Old 01-02-2013, 04:19 PM   #2 (permalink)
Sam
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More mods:

I plasti-dipped my front grille and spear on the back. I also did the badges that say "Mercury Sable LS" but have since taken the plastic off since I like them silver.





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2008 Mercury Sable Premier
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Moved On: 2000 Sable LS Premium Duratec

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Old 01-02-2013, 04:19 PM   #3 (permalink)
Sam
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So I installed a new head unit and subs into my car. I did all of the wiring myself. Bought the head unit and ICP/wiring from Crutchfield, and the subs from other TCCA member 01 SES.

I wanted a double DIN head unit since I think the single ones look stupid in Tauruses/Sables. So I learned they make a new ICP with EATC controls that will fit a double din head unit!

Well I know there are probably plenty out there who have done this, but putting a double din head unit in our cars pretty much hasn't happened until recently unless you rigged your own setup. It's easy now with the new ICP adaptor that is made! This guide is assuming you are using your new head unit to power the speakers and not a secondary amplifier.

In my honest opinion, this was not very hard to do. It took me roughly 3 hours from start to finish (I did this in two different days. One day to wire up the subs, one day for the head unit since the subs came in the day before the head unit). It seemed daunting at first when I was holding that wiring harness, but it was pretty simple to do all in all! Feel free to post here or PM me with any questions! I will be happy to post more pictures if you ask for specifics.

This method works for 2000-2003 Tauruses and sables. It may work for 04-07, but I'm not sure. They changed the EATC to have an A/C compressor on and off option which isn't included in 00' - 03'.

This is very expensive and I honestly don't know why I did it.

This ONLY will work for those of you with EATC. I don't know if it is possible with a car that used to have manual controls that has switched to EATC. Someone will have to let me know that.

First step is buying the ICP as well as the double din head unit of your choice. The ICP you need to buy is this: Ford Taurus Factory Integration Adapter Install an aftermarket receiver in a 2000-03 Ford Taurus/Mercury Sable with electronic climate controls at Crutchfield.com

You can get it half off if you purchase it with any head unit from crutchfield. I purchased the Pioneer AVH-P2400BT and love it. The P3400, P4400, and P8400 are the best choices. The P3400 only adds HD radio over the P2400. All of these pioneer radio's are good choices: pioneer avh at Crutchfield.com

Make sure to get some easy way to splice wires together. I purchased these: Posi-Products™ Car Stereo Connectors 16 connectors for installing a new car stereo at Crutchfield.com
They work very well, but anything similar to it. You're just connecting two wires together you can use normal caps if you wish, or just wing it with electrical tape!

With the ICP, you will get the wiring harness for the new EATC controls as well as the harness to get the head unit wired to the speakers.


Left in bag is EATC, right is head unit.

First step is to remove your ICP. It's usually easy to do, just use the DIN tool to get inside the clips and wiggle it out. Sometimes a clip gets stuck and you may have to get under the dash and figure out how to release it. Remove the clips from the stock ICP and put them on the new ICP.

Unplug the harness from the stock ICP, set the ICP (radio/eatc controls) aside. Remove the inside temperature sensor from the old ICP and set aside. Leave it plugged into the harness. Set the sensor into the new housing included with the new ICP. Set down and out of the way.

Now the harness for the EATC (short one in plastic bag), plug one end into the harness coming out of the dash that was originally plugged into the radio. Plug the other end into the new ICP/EATC controls. Go ahead and turn the car on to ensure this is working correctly. If the controls do not work correctly, call crutchfield.

After you ensure the controls are working, if you need more space, unplug the new EATC/ICP. I just set it around my floor shifter plugged in.

It is probably smart to go ahead and remove the negative from the battery cable at this time just to be safe since you are working with wires.

Next you need to run the harness from the head unit to the RCU harness. Start by removing the trunk lining. You'll figure it out, it isn't hard to remove honestly. Just un do a few clips and pull it back. The drivers side is the side you must pull back. First empty the trunk and take out the spare tire cover.

Unplug the large harness from the center of the RCU and the antennae from the RCU. It may be different for different RCU's, but just match up the new, long harness with the old plug to the RCU.

Location of the RCU:


Once you find the correct harness to plug in, it's time to run the cable to the front of the car. This would be the time to install a power, remote, and RCA cables for a subwoofer.

To run the wires up, first remove the back seat. It's simple if you have flip fold seats. Just flip the seats down and you will see four bolts in each corner. Then lift the seat up and off. Just lay it down, no need to remove the middle seat belt. Go ahead and move the drivers seat all the way forward and back all the way up if you can. Where the drivers seatbelt connects to the floor, turn it horizontally so the plastic is below the B pillar trim. With a flat head screwdriver, from the inside out, pry up the rocker panel trim under the drivers side door. It should pop right up and you should be able to pull it out. This will reveal a wiring harness if you lift up the carpet. Then pop up the rear drivers side trim and you will not be able to remove it completely easily. That is OK. Then pop out the B pillar trim. You can use your hands for this. Do not remove it at the top where the seat belt it. Just pull it out at the bottom and around the B pillar so you expose the carpet edge below. If anyone is confused, I'll take pictures. Should have while I had it popped off.

Next, run your wiring harness through. Make sure to have about 6 inches hanging out of the ICP hole where the head unit is going to go. You don't want to have too little slack. You can get it under the rear seat and then under the trunk liner all the way to the RCU connector. It's not very hard to route. Just make sure you stick it under the carpet so no wires are sticking out. Put most of the slack near the rear of it. There really won't be any though as this is a perfect fit cable harness.

You may also run power, remote, and RCA wires on the same side. Keep in mind there may be some noise created by running the power cable along the same side as the other cables. I have had no issues with it, but it may create noise depending on the power flowing through the cable and the amount of insulation on the cable. Once you have all the cables run and know you have the proper slack on each end, put the trim back on. See below for how to connect up the power cable for subwoofer amp (or other amp) to the battery.

Plug the RCU harness into the new harness, as well as the antennae and replace the trunk liner and spare tire well cover.

Now open your new head unit and remove the power wiring connector. Remove about a half inch of insulation from each of the wires you are going to use in the head unit harness. If you use a pioneer like the one I did, you will not need remove insulation from the parking brake harness, rear gear, or mute lines.

Literally connect the wires together by color, paying attention to solid color or color with stripe. There are three wires coming off of the EATC harness that power the head unit, splice those on as well. NOTE: The blue/white wire on the head unit harness matches to the blue wire on the new RCU harness you just ran. That is the remote line telling the head unit to power on. You can tap your subwoofer remote line into this wire either in the front or in the trunk. I ran mine to the front so I could install a switch to turn off my sub's whenever I wish to. You can also do it on the head unit, but it is faster with a switch.

Once you have all of the wires connected, you should have 3 wires left, the long green parking brake wire, reverse gear indicator, and a mute line. Put the parking brake wire down behind the ICP, and run it over to the parking brake. It has a quick splice connector already installed. Push up the black insulation on the sensor at the top of the parking brake to expose a similar green wire. Put the quick splice connector around this wire then push down with some pliers till you hear a click. This is essential because you cannot use some functions without the parking brake engaged. You can bypass this. Just google it. You can also just push the parking brake down slightly to bypass it while driving. It will not engage the parking brake. You don't need to push it down much at all for the sensor to trip. The "brake" light will come on when you do this. The reverse gear wire you may do nothing with unless you installed a backup camera. Then it must go to the gear shift indicator and tap into the wire that sends the signal for reverse. Or you can leave it and just click on the backup camera when you wish to use it. The mute wire just leave open, I have no idea what it does.

Wiring:

ICP in:


The subwoofer will connect up to the RCA jack if you are not using a line output converter. Cleaner sound this way:

Okay, now plug the harness into the back of the head unit after installing the head unit into the ICP. Replace the battery cable if you removed it, and just turn the car to "lock" (opposite way to start your car). The head unit should power up. You may test that your radio works now. If you have wired up subs, make sure you plug the RCA for the subs in as well as the remote wire. Just use a quick splice connector and splice the remote wire into the remote wire in the wiring harness.

Ensure all 4 or 6 speakers are working, and if you installed subs that they are working. Make sure your subs are wired to the amplifier correctly, and the ground is solid and connected. If your amp isn't powering on, make sure it is connected to the battery correctly with a working fuse, and ensure the remote wire is connected and going to the correct spot. You can test your power by taking a piece of wire and connecting the remote and power together. The amp should turn on. Do not do this permanently.

Wire up the microphone if applicable. I put mine between my tach and speedo. It stays right there just fine. Stuff extra wires behind the ICP. You can zip tie them to various places around the kick panel. Be sure you can still remove the kick panel. It's two 8mm bolts on either side of the OBD-II port. Just remove them then pull out. It may be helpful when installing wires.

You should now be good to go! Route wires as you like to clean up, and make sure everything is put back together. You can slide the ICP in until it clicks. Make sure no cables are being pinched, and everything works correctly. Feel free to contact me with any questions via PM.

Subwoofer install with stock head unit:
If you just wish to install a subwoofer and it's amplifier, just run the power and remote wires to the front of the car, power to the battery and remote to a hot when radio on connector (find a wiring harness diagram for the back of the radio, I believe it is a yellow wire). You can also install it to an always hot wire and put a switch in line with it so you can manually turn it on and off as you wish. See above for how to get the cables to the front of the car.

To get the power cable to the battery there are two ways. First is to do what I did, the easy way. Run it out of the front rocker cover and through the door jamb, up to the hood and to the battery. Pictures below. (I'll add a good picture of the wiring from the door later) This is how I put it on my battery.

I mounted the fuse near the bottom of the airbox. It's for 50 amps, but my amp is cut off at 20 amps so it's not like it actually matters.


See where the cable comes out of the rocker trim and goes up through the door? it doesn't get pinched by the door here:


You can see how I wired under the dash. I haven't had the chance to tidy it up 100% at this point. It really isn't visible unless you are at eye level or lower than the bottom of the kick panel.


I stuffed all of these wires up behind the radio and zip tied them to what I could find to zip tie them too. They are mostly out of the way. Watch out for cables coming out around the bottom or on the passengers side. I had way to much RCA cable so about 4 feet of it is bundled up behind the radio. It fell out the passengers side the other day! So I zip tied it together and stuffed it back up there.


You can buy wiring kits, or create your own kits. Just remember to put a fuse within 2 feet of the battery terminal. If you are pulling under 1000w peak power 8 gauge is the smallest I would recommend. You may as well put 4 gauge in just incase you wish to upgrade in the future. Or even larger if you want to go huge! I put 8 gauge in since my peak output is 1000 watts. Still not even sure of my RMS (continuous) wattage.

You must splice in a line output converter to the RCU harness if you wish to do it this way. I used quick splice connectors. I dont' actually use this line output converter anymore. Don't buy the one I got too. If you're spending less than $50 for a LOC, it's a bad one. Around $70 is the cost for a good LOC. Make sure you get one with no grounds. You only need one channel. it should have 4 cables (L and R and their pos and neg), and two RCA outputs (L and R). Below is the connector view for the RCU harness, and my LOC spliced in.


(grounds on this one aren't spliced in, I put them to a different ground, you shouldn't need a ground though)

You can see everything through the little holder slot on the drivers side. Good access to it all without removing the trunk liner.


You can mount the subwoofer amp on the back of the single flip fold seat. Make sure you have enough clearance to close the seat. You may need to mount it on the subwoofer box if you don't.



The best place to install your ground for the amplifier in my opinion is one of the rear seat bolts. You really don't even have to sand them. You could for a better connection though.
Here is my ground:


I installed a switch inline with the remote so I can turn off the subs if I wish. I can also do it through the head unit but this is easier. Not sure where to mount it, so I put it in the ash tray for now!


Feel free to contact me with any questions via PM. If you come to me in St. Louis, Missouri, I'll be happy to help you with your install!

Finished Product Pictures:








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2008 Mercury Sable Premier
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2004 Acura TSX 2.4
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Old 01-02-2013, 04:19 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Maintenance I've done:

Replaced the front struts in October took longer than it should have. I used Monroe quick struts. The OEM style ones.

Some pic's of the job:

Before:


Compare old and new:

No strut at all:

Putting the new strut in the nuckle (hardest part):

All my tools!


Also replaced my sway bar links... THEY WERE SHOT.
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2008 Mercury Sable Premier
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Old 01-02-2013, 04:31 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I've since added more things!

I installed Gen 4.5 tail lights. I have yet to wire up the amber turns and running lights.



I also installed an autodim mirror:

Thanks to TaurusDailyDriver for helping me out there!

My current interior:

I installed a satellite radio module and a HD radio module as an addon to my headunit. (silver box in first picture is Satellite, black box near the back in second picture is HD)


Satellite radio antennae:
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2008 Mercury Sable Premier
2012 Kia Soul Base AT 1.6GDI
2004 Acura TSX 2.4
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Old 01-02-2013, 04:37 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Here are some things that I have done not necessarily related to my Sable.

I found a gen 3 SHO passengers side peanut butter chair at my junkyard. I decided to turn it into a piece of makeshift furniture!

At the JY:

Friend helping me build:

Before painting:

Painted:



Snowy sable


I currently have the stock 7 point sable rims, but am putting these 2003 Sable Platinum rims for the summer (new tires on them!). Going to use the 7 spokers for the winter.
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2008 Mercury Sable Premier
2012 Kia Soul Base AT 1.6GDI
2004 Acura TSX 2.4
Moved On: 2000 Sable LS Premium Duratec

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Old 01-02-2013, 06:38 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Impressive. Was ther a reason why didn't just swap out dash plastic film with the speedo/trip gauges instead of the entire unit? The film is only held by the gel/glue that peels off. Can I just swap out the plastic film? I havent replaced mine yet but I have the replacement film ready, i just need to buy the new LED BULBS first. Also, what are you going to do about the factory green lights in the door controls that are green is ther a practical solution to color match? I love your radio and the climate controls rock and I been thinking about the 7" Nav/radio myself. But I not ready to take another big hit.....yet the radio adapter alone is almost $300. My single din was like $200. Did you hook up the back up camera to your radio yet? And do you plan on getting interior floor LEDs like the high end Buicks have to illuminate your feet inside the car (puddle light outside/ LEDs inside)? Do an update when you have all your LEDS color coordinated and how you did it! Your Sables looking great.
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1989 Ford Escort (RIP)
1988 Ford Taurus GL(RIP)
1995 Ford Taurus GL(RIP)
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Old 01-02-2013, 07:00 PM   #8 (permalink)
Sam
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Member Number: 49890
Join Date: Sep 2012
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Drives: 2008 Mercury Sable Premier
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Quote:
Originally Posted by byrondumas View Post
Impressive.
Why thank you!


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Old 01-03-2013, 01:41 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I miss the pink cassette adapter.
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Old 01-03-2013, 09:30 AM   #10 (permalink)
Sam
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DN101 View Post
I miss the pink cassette adapter.
Hahaha! Well I actually just took it out of the car yesterday. Girlfriend bought it so she picked the color, naturally!


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