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Old 05-06-2010, 12:13 AM   #1 (permalink)
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I see that all previous threads seem to say that you need to drop the subframe, you do not. I used an 8mm wrench with a piece of tube over it to act as a longer lever and block the nubs on the magnetic plate. I removed the magnetic plate and then we purchased a better set of snap ring pliers from Sears and went at it with a mirror and the plier. I held the mirror and my talented brother was able to remove the snap ring. The pulley came off with plenty of room. There appears to be no reason to lower the subframe.
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Old 08-19-2010, 11:22 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I would like to offer verification to this.

2004 DOHC Duratec Sable: Just replaced the clutch assembly a few days ago and went at it from the top. The snap ring removal was the worst part, but only because it had to be done by feel. A small telescoping mirror available for a few bucks at your local parts store is helpful, but not required.

Further, no components were removed except the belt. This made access a little tight, but even with my large hands, the project was complete in a few hours. Again, the snap ring consumed much of the effort.

For the record, the Four Seasons clutch kit from RockAuto.com includes a bearing. Also a selection of shims comes with the hardware in the clutch kit. The second from smallest gave a 0.028" air gap clearance which is at the high side of the specification of 0.018 to 0.030". Works great. Your install may require a different shim, so have a feeler gauge set handy to verify. The front 8mm bolt and clutch are easy enough to remove so please measure the clearance to the pulley before final install of the belt.
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Last edited by TourDeForce; 09-25-2010 at 10:25 AM. Reason: adding bearing info
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Old 08-19-2010, 01:28 PM   #3 (permalink)
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It's true. Member "Jamesbar" posted a good writeup with lots of pics Sept 17th 2009. It should have been posted in the Wiki, but no. Trickey method using Houdini skills and mirror but saves a fortune. Stealerships go the traditional route and you'll pay $900 just for pulley, clutch and coil and MUCHO Labor!!
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Old 12-20-2010, 06:37 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toronut View Post
Member "Jamesbar" posted a good writeup with lots of pics Sept 17th 2009.

That was actually Jamesba (doing a search for "Jamesbar" won't turn up anything except this thread), who actually goes by member name "revwarnut".

His excellent writeup, which he posted Sept 16th (not 17th) 2009, is at:

2001 Taurus Ac Clutch Relay? + Clutch Replacement
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Old 12-20-2010, 06:44 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Note that the pulley on some compressors won't come off easily, after you remove its snap ring. As revwarnut/Jamesba notes in his post, he had to pry off the pulley after removing its retaining snap ring, since some pulleys on some compressors require a removal tool (or prying). Larger removal tools won't fit between the pulley and the body of the car, but it might be possible to get a small removal tool in there. But if you're replacing the coil too, you're looking at doing some prying anyway. Some replacement pulleys might also require a tool to press into place, or pushing using a pry bar and a piece of wood (as revwarnut/Jamesba used to press the replacement coil into place).

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Old 12-20-2010, 11:31 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Whats the problem lowering the subframe? its just 1 bolt. Alls you need is an 18mm and 1 jack! Takes 2 min and subframes lowered. If it makes it easy with it lowered, then do it that way.
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Old 12-21-2010, 12:16 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrism3784 View Post
Whats the problem lowering the subframe? its just 1 bolt. Alls you need is an 18mm and 1 jack! Takes 2 min and subframes lowered. If it makes it easy with it lowered, then do it that way.
I've never dropped the subframe on my 1994 2nd generation Taurus, but from what I've read in a few posts here (like rudedog's description at Tips On How To Remove A/c Compressor Clutch), at least with some models?, it can involve a lot more work than that, and sometimes may require a realignment after that. And sometimes the bolts are rusted in place, requiring further work to loosen. But I'm not sure which winds up being more work--dropping the subframe, or getting at the compressor's pulley/clutch etc. from the top. I've also been asking if dropping the subframe in different Taurus models allows access to the pulley/clutch to different degrees depending on the model, but so far no answers.

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Old 12-21-2010, 08:28 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Take it from me, who started the no drop subframe post, drop the damn subframe. Getting the snap ring off with the mirror was one thing, but it was total bitch trying to get it back on. You might as well drop the subframe, there are so many other repairs that require it and it is very easy.
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Old 12-21-2010, 08:55 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrism3784 View Post
Whats the problem lowering the subframe? its just 1 bolt. Alls you need is an 18mm and 1 jack! Takes 2 min and subframes lowered. If it makes it easy with it lowered, then do it that way.
I thought you had to remove two bolts to make the side of the subframe lower down?

Go check out a post made by paker about his Vulcan AC compressor clutch/coil replacement.
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