Does the strut relax so far in length that it'd make it impossible to connect the ball joint stud without compressing the strut. I've got a ten foot solid cheater bar, and a 200 lb guy sitting on the far end just to get control arm clear of the length of BJ stud, once cleared BUT STILL can't get the BJ stud over to the hole in CA, it's about an inch off. Reman CV shaft from carquest, on my first trip they'd given me one without the ABS gear looking gizmo for ABS, ...then, to exchange it their computer showed one but couldn't find it. Any ideas on what I need to do?
Good idea. I have dropped the sub frame several times on my herd. I also use a jack under the sub and remove the bolts, wire brush and grease the shank where it rusts. My '01 was so bad I replaced 2 of them due to shank of the bolt rusted half in two. Since I have DOHC's I drop the sub for the Alt removal and sturts/BJ. Dropping the sub saves lots of pain and bad words.
I've always found it easier to unbolt the strut from the upright, and tilt it out, than to remove the ball joint. For ABS, you will need the CV shaft with tone ring, or the tone ring can be added to a non ABS shaft.
You have to realize that assembling is NOT the reverse of disassembling.
When you disassemble, you leave the knuckle on the strut and lift the balljoint out of the control arm (by lifting the knuckle with your hands and pushing the control arm down with your foot).
When you assemble, you start with the knuckle detached from the strut. You first put the balljoint into the control arm and then wriggle the strut into the knuckle (which is easy because the bottom of the strut is round).
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