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parking brake stuck

16K views 24 replies 6 participants last post by  chartmaker 
#1 ·
I had this vehicle up on jacks for a while working on the front end. And, when I got down from the jacks. The passenger's rear tire doesn't turn. The parking brake seemed to release just fine. And the driver's rear wheel turns. Yes there is a brake and parking brake light on the dash.

So, how do I approach fixing this?
 
#3 ·
I had tried setting the brake a few more times. But, it didn't seem to do much. as in the pedal pushed down pretty easy.

not all that versed in the rear drum brake repair. So, I take it you mean check the ebrake cable. and to do that do I need the vehicle up on jacks and/or the wheel off?

I do have a haynes repair manual, but not much in there for pictures.
 
#6 ·
One has to be extremely careful when putting an older Bull up on jackstands. The parking brake cable is routed very closely to the right side rail and it's easy to rest the car's weight right on the parking-brake cable if not vigilant about doing otherwise. Once that's done, any crimp in the cable will show itself the way it did for this thread's OP. I've learned to push brake cables out of the way before jacking up my wagon.
 
#7 ·
Ok, back at this again.
anyway, got the vehicle up on some ramps. So, I can somewhat see under it.
Can't really see to much about the ebrake cable. So, looks like i'm going to have to pull the wheel.

the pic shows the ebrake cable under the driver's door. It is somewhat dangling. So, I'm taking that as the cable at the foot pedal is releasing just fine.

But, the passenger's rear wheel isn't rotating so it isn't working all the way to the brake shoes.

Going to have to put it on jack stands to remove the wheel (just on ramps at the moment).
Any suggestions on a good spot to place the jack stand. Looks like there is a notch back there for jacking when replacing the tire. Is there a better location?
 

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#8 · (Edited)
Just as an added question.

I noticed that the drum isn't moving at all. It doesn't wiggle or rotate.
Now, it this because the hub is rusted to the wheel hub?
Or, is this it because the parking brake is stuck and engaged?

I was also wondering if I pushed the tangs in on the ebrake. Like when you are replacing ebrake cable.
and let the ebrake cable get pushed into the brake assembly. Would that release the parking brake?
Thanks
 
#10 ·
anyway trying to use the brake adjustor for loosen the brake pads.

not really sure I'm doing it right. When I insert the brake spoon, I hit a bunch of nothing. So, I'm trying to get a good picture of how the adjustor is in relationship to the opening.

looks like it is pretty much straight in a few inches.

it is out to see how that works out.
 
#11 ·
anyway trying to use the brake adjustor for loosen the brake pads.

not really sure I'm doing it right. When I insert the brake spoon, I hit a bunch of nothing. So, I'm trying to get a good picture of how the adjustor is in relationship to the opening.

looks like it is pretty much straight in a few inches.

it is out to see how that works out.
Been discussed recently with pictures.

-chart-
 
#12 ·
You still haven't indicated whether you have put the car on stands, or have done anything to it since your post of 9-26. For jacking placement, refer to your owner's manual or your Haynes manual. We can't solve problems without updates, and you haven't done anything but ask more questions. Sorry, we aren't there looking over your shoulder and there are no photos to work with.

Help us to help you.

If you have the car on stands, the wheels off, and have the rear brake shoes pushed back, the wheel should turn. Judging by your prior description (common sense) the problem lies between the Y-yoke and the RR wheel (your LR wheel turns, the RR does not). If it were me, I'd replace the entire rear cable and be done with it. If you really feel the need to mess with it, you need to get lube/rust remover into that RR leg of the brake cable...and I am not convinced it will work. For the minor cost of an entirely-new cable, I'd replace it and be done with it. The giveaway is no joy with the adjusting spoon. If you're backing out the star-wheel adjuster and get no change in results, your problem is localized to that wheel and it's very likely to be in the control cable at this point.

Post back with some photos of what you are up against, and let's see what we can do to solve this problem with you. It isn't rocket science. Please, make the photos show the immediate problem you are having.
 
#13 ·
Whew. I was starting to feel lonely there. Sometimes just need to feel your not alone. thanks.
So, it is up on jacks and the wheel is off. I'm working on getting the drum off without much luck.

Tried loosen the brake adjustor. Being there isn't much to see and I'm not experienced with doing it, I'm not sure if I accomplished anything. maybe the brakes loosen, maybe not.

But, the drum is on there as tight as ever. no wiggling, no turning, it doesn't move at all. So, I don't know if that is because the brake is holding it tightly in place. Or, things are all rusted together, besides the ebrake cable.

So, right now getting the drum off is my problem. Not sure what to do next.

replacing the ebrake cable isn't an issue. But, you have to get the drum off to replace the cable. And, to see what else is wrong.
 
#15 ·
Up your way, I would suspect some serious rust bonding between the drum and the hub. Pour some penetrating fluid onto the hub at the drum mating surface and let it sit for an hour, than give some good heavy blows with a high-tech three-pound hammer to break the drum loose from the hub. After that, you'll know whether you backed out the star-wheel adjuster or tightened it up. Adjust accordingly, then remove the drum.
 
#16 ·
I do think I was. I was trying to turn the car side down. That should be right.

I did hit the holes in the drum where the lug bolts protrude with PBlaster before working on the adjuster. And, after working the adjuster I hit the openings with more PBlaster. I did give it a few blows with a 2-3 pound hammer. I was more concerned with being accurate with the blows than being forceful.

I'll give it some really good wacks in the morning.

Thanks for helping out with the advice.
 
#17 · (Edited)
alright went out and did some wacking on the drum.

Made some progress.

I can rotate the wheel hub independent of the drum. So, that has come loose.

I can rotate the drum now also. So, the brakes aren't holding it either. But, the rotation is sticky/uneven. I'll try rotating the drum some more and see if I can get the stickyness to even out.

There is a slight side to side wiggle now. But, no in/out motion on the drum.

So, I guess I'm at the "can't remove the drum because of the rust ridge" stage now.

I'll try working the drum off by tapping the back side with a hammer and see how that goes
 
#18 ·
I turn the drum in one direction till it sticks and I can't turn it any further. Then I can turn it about 90 degrees in the other direction until it sticks and cant be turned any further.

tapped on the back of the drum to try to work it off. it does wiggle a little now but not much.

Is there a way to hold one side in place while tapping on the other side, wiggling it off a little at a time. First on one side then on the opposite side?
 
#20 ·
I loosened the adjuster even more (at least I think so). the drum does feel looser also.

But, still can only rotate the hub about 90 degrees.

In the non sticky stop where I'm able to rotate the hub pretty easily, I can wiggle the drum off about 1/4" and that is about it.

It is pretty easy to wiggle the drum in and out that 1/4", but that is all the further I can get it.

Any suggestions?

Thanks for the help.
 
#22 ·
Keep loosening! The threads in the adjuster halves are fine pitch and you only get about 1/6 of a turn each time with the tool in the slot. Be prepared to be doing that for 20 minutes, depending on how long it's been since the rear shoes were last changed and how extended the adjuster is.
 
#23 · (Edited)
Well, got the hammer out. wasn't being delicate. The drum is off.

Anyone see anything that should be investigated further?
Any maintenance things that I should do before/while putting it all back together?

When the drum was finally off, the parking brake had released. And, is working fine now.

with the drum off, I could see the adjuster. And, being none of the rust on the inside of the brake side of the star wheel had scratches on it, I doubt that I rotated the star wheel at all.

Someone mentioned that a stuck brake cylinder could be a problem. Is there a way to check the brake cylinder for proper operation with the drum off?

And, I guess that knocking the 3/4" rim of the drum off, means it needs to be replaced?
 

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