Adjust Rear Drum Brake Question & Summary - Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum
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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-18-2016, 10:18 PM Thread Starter
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Adjust Rear Drum Brake Question & Summary

Hello all,

I just replaced the both drums of my rear drum brakes. The reason that I didn't replace the shoes and other accessories is because I found they are fine(my standard). Also you can see that the shoe still has plenty of meat left.

Question 1> Is it common that people only replace the drum without touching other parts of the drum brake system?

Question 2> What is the right way to adjust the drum brake system?
For my case, I found out that I don't have to adjust the wheel b/c the new OEM drum is thicker than the rusted old ones.

I set the parking break or press the brake pedal and make sure that rear wheel cannot move. I am not sure whether this is the right way to adjust the new drum brake.

Summary: I did found two tricks that really saved my day.

Tip1> Use 1" PVC pipe as the extension bar to help leverage the power to undo the wheel nuts.

Tip2> Use a pull bar to remove the frozen drum.

Thank you all!
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Last edited by q0987; 05-18-2016 at 10:38 PM.
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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-18-2016, 11:18 PM
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#1- I've swapped shoes and not drums, but not the other way around. #2- Adjust starwheel so you just have a "slight" drag of shoes on drum. Leaky wheel cylinder(s) or did you spray something? I'd feel safer with a metal cheater pipe.
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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-18-2016, 11:50 PM Thread Starter
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I spray silicon lube.

thank you

Last edited by q0987; 05-19-2016 at 07:36 AM.
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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-19-2016, 10:20 PM
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I grind out the rust ridge on the inside of the drums when I take them off so that they come off easy next time. I also put a light smear of anti seize at the point where the drum meets the hub to prevent them from sticking.

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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-01-2016, 11:38 AM
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The rear brakes are self adjusting, so you really don't have to adjust them. Just run the adjuster out to where the shoes just start touching the drum when you reinstall it. Ditto on putting anti-seize where the drum meets the hub circle. If wheel cylinders are not leaking, they should be fine for now. Be sure and press the brake pedal down multiple times before you drive the car so that the adjusters will move the shoes to where they are supposed to be.

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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-01-2016, 12:54 PM
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Great job. I think those shoes look almost new are you sure the adjuster or the wheel cylinders aren't stuck? Wondering why you had to replace the drums? I always make sure the adjuster wheel spins easily so the self adjusting works. Like others have said you should adjust them so the shoes just start touching the drums but not so much that you can't spin the wheel freely, they will be self adjusting from there as long as the hardware is in good working order.

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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-01-2016, 03:01 PM
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Pic of '03 someone put new shoes on old wheel cylinder. Leak is just starting. Peel the rubber dust boot back and it is full of fluid. New shoes push the piston/cup back to the center over rusted bore.

I replaced the wheel cylinders, they are cheap at RA.

If I had not done that, the nearly new shoes would be totaled. 5 years and 65K miles, they are doing just fine. I check them every fall.

-chart-

Last edited by chartmaker; 06-17-2016 at 01:29 PM.
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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-01-2016, 07:42 PM
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^+1. Shoes/pads don't like brake fluid, lol.
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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-02-2016, 06:13 AM
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When I replaced shoes I always get the wheel kit. That's new springs, adjuster, etc. .
Springs loose tension over time and that affects the auto adjuster, kit is cheap for each wheel and makes it a once and done job.
Touch of brake lube (caliper pin grease) on the contact points on backing plate and you'll have a factory fresh brake job.

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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-02-2016, 08:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by repairman54 View Post
When I replaced shoes I always get the wheel kit. That's new springs, adjuster, etc. .
Springs loose tension over time and that affects the auto adjuster, kit is cheap for each wheel and makes it a once and done job.
Touch of brake lube (caliper pin grease) on the contact points on backing plate and you'll have a factory fresh brake job.
Agree but, you do well to take a pic before taking things off. When I got my kit, different color springs, one for the left, one for the rignt. The spring coil/end curl different from side to side. This is a bit of a jug saw puzzle. The springs look identical at first glance but they are not.

springs rust and that makes them loos tension. The outside of the wire where the tension gets smaller. Rust happens.

-chart-
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