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Brake System Issue

5K views 23 replies 10 participants last post by  q0987 
#1 ·
Hoping I can get some advice that will lead me to a CONCLUSIVE diagnosis of this issue with my brake system...

So, nearly two weeks ago my friend who was driving the car to get some food at the time notified me that on his way back he had to push the brake pedal all the way down to the floor to get any resistance, but even then it is not nearly enough resistance for safety purposes. So, I need some help here.

In other words, I would not take that down a steep grade (which I am surrounded on all sides by!) or on the freeway let alone take it on a main road. Since I cannot take it to a repair shop, my options are limited. I'm a college student so I don't have money to be throwing away by making uninformed decisions.

So, I need some help from this community! Some other helpful info for you guys in your advice-giving: my fluid level is just under the "max fill" line, there are no visible leak spots underneath the car, and the pads/rotors do need to be replaces, but were at least in operating condition.

I also attempt to do this myself. Based on what I have researched so far (even though I do not have much experience, I very much so love to work on cars and to problem solve, so I've spent a long time researching opinions and possible solutions to this problem!), the two frequent conclusions made by other sources are that either the brake booster or master cylinder needs to be replaced. However, the cylinder seems to somewhat to be doing its job because I am getting some pressure and resistance in the system but at a very low degree.

Hope to hear from someone soon!
 
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#3 ·
Bleed the brakes first. There could be air in the system. I fixed a mushy pedal in our ridgeline with a simple brake bleed. If that doesn't improve anything try holding the pedal down with the car off. cycle it a few times to relieve any residual vacuum assist if you have recently driven the car. The pedal should stop and not move. If it continues slowly to the floor your master cylinder most likely has an internal leak.
 
#5 ·
An update regarding this issue!

So, today around 10:30 (eastern time) I went to go move my car from the curbside where it has been sitting outside my house to my University's parking lot so I could begin inspecting the brakes as you guys advised me to do. However, one thing I wanted to do first, like bbfruth mentioned was to, while the car is off, pump the pedal a few times and see if it stops completely without giving way (I thought I had tried this already, but gave it another try to make sure). And, behold, the pedal did not lock up, but sank straight down to the floor (like when the car is on)!

So, knowing this information guys (and potentially gals), does that fact lead unanimously to a master cylinder failure, or what? I am trying to keep you guys up to date so I can get this thing fixed soon!
 
#14 ·
I believe that's a one piece line. The only places that might havea pre-bent line are: Dealer (pricey) or junkyard (risky)
Measure the length of the line with a tape measure, a length of string could also be used. Take it to the parts store or take photos of the ends to compare.
Use the old line as a pattern to bend the new one, the bends don't need to be as sharp as the original and can usually be bent by hand, saving the cost of a bending tool.
 
#15 ·
I believe that's a one piece line. The only places that might have a pre-bent line are: Dealer (pricey) or junkyard (risky)
Measure the length of the line with a tape measure, a length of string could also be used. Take it to the parts store or take photos of the ends to compare.
Use the old line as a pattern to bend the new one, the bends don't need to be as sharp as the original and can usually be bent by hand, saving the cost of a bending tool.
So, to clarify, the pictures I would be taking would be to match the line on the car now to lines the part store has to make sure I get the right one, and to measure the line would be for the same result, to match whatever line I can get at the parts store? Second, you are suggesting that I go to the parts store to buy unbent line and bend the line myself? By the way, as I was typing my response I watched a line bending and flaring tutorial, so I suppose I am up to speed on this operation. I need to get some unbent line, and replicate the ruptured line. I also should check the second line that runs parallel to the ruptured one.
 
#16 ·
Replace with NiCop (nickel/copper) brake line. Easy to bend, easy to double flare, and will never rust. If you dont have a flaring tool with a double flair adapter, pick one up from the nearest Harbor Freight for cheap.

If one line is leaking, the other is not far behind. I would replace the other line also.
 
#19 ·
An update on the brake line job...



So, I finished putting the new nicopp lines on my bull. It was quite the job, for I did not have many tools to work with, but I made it through! I routed them correctly, using some of the old and new ends (fittings) and the original clamps to make sure they stay in place. I realized the hard way that the ends that I purchased from the parts store were the wrong size, so that is why I had to use some of the old ends.

Getting to my question: while doing this job I let all of the fluid in the master cylinder drain out, so does that mean I need to remove the newly replaced mc and bench bleed it again?

Also, after I do that I need to bleed the brakes, of course. I am planning on doing the two-partner-while-using-a-hose-on-the-bleeder-screw technique. I have heard that is a simple, but more time consuming way of bleeding the brakes.

Thanks in advance for virtually walking me through this job!
 
#18 ·
Thank you for the insight, Sheila.

I still believe I can do this myself if I get the line, replicate the dimensions of the old lines, bend the new lines, double-flare the ends, put end fittings on, and install the new lines, right? I don't mind buying the bending, cutter, and flaring tools to do the job. They are relatively cheap.
 
#21 ·
Just a couple thoughts come to mind. First, take a good look at the flex hoses at each wheel if you haven't already. Even if they look okay pinch them all around to feel for any soft spots that could be bulging when you apply brake pressure. Next, make sure when you are bleeding the fluid you tighten the bleed screw before lifting your foot off the brake pedal each time. I always make sure my helper knows not to lift off the pedal until I've called out that it's okay after I tighten the screw. Lifting before that is tight could suck air bubbles back in. After every 3-4 pumps go back and refill the reservoir so it doesn't run dry and you have to start over again. Don't give up, you'll find the problem!
 
#23 ·
Everyone,

I have some great news! My bull's braking system works like a charm now! And even better than before! Everything worked out fine, but I did break off one of the lug studs on the rear left wheel hub. Like we can live without one of our kidneys, can I do without one of five studs on the wheel hub?

Thanks in advance!
 
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