Driver side ball joint/lower control arm - Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-12-2012, 08:20 AM Thread Starter
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Driver side ball joint/lower control arm

Ford Taurus GL 96 V6 3.0
Hello everyone,
We was trying to take ball joint out to replace it and no way its not moving at all, the top part of ball joint go out and bolt that between control arm and knuckle its not going nowhere. What we did last time on passenger side is we took out lower control arm with knuckle and ball joint together, went to the shop and take it out using a torch, but now heres deal on the driver side, you can't take out the bolt from control arm, it is right under the engine mount and bolt is so long, is any suggestions please? Anyone took out lower control arm from driver side before? I really your guys help
Thank you and sorry my english might be not good
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-12-2012, 09:53 AM
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Only thing would be to support the transmission and lower the sub-frame on the driver's side to remove the control arm bolt. Once it's removed, you can put the bolt in backwars to make future removal of the control arm easy


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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-12-2012, 10:31 AM
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I do mine using the pitman arm puller kit (parts store loaner)



This will allow you to pop the LCA free from the BJ stud quickly and easily. Once your caliper/rotor is out of the way you should be able to pop the LCA off that stud in just a few minutes.

From there you can remove the strut pinch bolt, use a dead blow or block and hammer to drive the knuckle UP the strut an inch or so (pb blaster/wd-40 may be useful). From there you can use a pry bar (24" is about right) through the hole in the LCA and pry downward so the BJ stud will clear the LCA.

Once that's done you can slide the knuckle back down and off the strut.

From there you have to use a ball joint press (another loaner) to get the BJ out of the knuckle. This was the hardest step for me b/c the adapters for the Ford BJ's are not easy to get aligned, and it takes quite a bit of torque to break it loose.
I think there's a snap ring in there too, so don't forget that.

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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-12-2012, 10:38 AM
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The snap ring will make it very hard if not removed first before pressing BJ. Nice pictures and explanation Liquid force~~
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-12-2012, 02:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by downhill View Post
The snap ring will make it very hard if not removed first before pressing BJ.
if not impossible

Quote:
Nice pictures and explanation Liquid force~~
Thanks
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-12-2012, 09:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wupp View Post
Ford Taurus GL 96 V6 3.0
Hello everyone,
We was trying to take ball joint out to replace it and no way its not moving at all, the top part of ball joint go out and bolt that between control arm and knuckle its not going nowhere. What we did last time on passenger side is we took out lower control arm with knuckle and ball joint together, went to the shop and take it out using a torch, but now heres deal on the driver side, you can't take out the bolt from control arm, it is right under the engine mount and bolt is so long, is any suggestions please? Anyone took out lower control arm from driver side before? I really your guys help
Thank you and sorry my english might be not good
I took a hack saw blade and cut that bastard out and reinstalled the new bolt going in from the bottom and the nut on top.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-16-2012, 09:24 PM
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Liquid Force shows the tools necessary to separate the ball joint from the lower control arm, 1st step. And then separate the ball joint from the bracket, 2nd step.

You can buy the pitman arm separator from O'Riellys auto parts without buying the whole kit, $20 bucks I believe. I've used the pitman arm separator several times. Its a good tool to keep around if you're going to do front-end work and saves time.

Last weekend I replaced the lower control arms on both the driver's side and passenger side of my Sable. The drivers side is tricky because you have to lift the engine about an inch to remove the front control arm bolt. This can be done buy using a floor jack and a block of 2x4 of wood. Remove the nut on the driver's side motor mount completely and then jack engine up about and inch.

Passenger side lower control arm is a walk in the park compared to the drivers side. Both of my hockey puck bushing were really bad causing a lot of subframe noise from bumps in the road not to mention it probably plays hells trying to keep the wheels aligned. Passenger side bushing was far worse than the driver's because some of the rubber material was missing !

This will give you clearance to remove the long bolt up front. Oh yeah you have fun installing the new lower control arm as well. Make sure you have alignment tools to do this for the front portion of the control arm.

Seems to me of the two bushings on the control arms the front bushing shaped like a hockey puck are the 1st to go. However Moog makes a replacement bushing for this control arm. The rear bushing appear to last forever.

Both of my lower control arms are available via rockauto.com and made by Moog. About $135 for both shipped. I'm probably going to keep my OEM lower control arms and push in new Moog bushings.

Monsoon

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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-17-2012, 07:58 AM
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I put a 6ft pry bar thru the hole in the LCA and stood on it while my brother banged on the LCA with a hammer to get to come out. When it finally broke free, it sounded like a shotgun went off in the garage.

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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-17-2012, 03:09 PM
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What do you mean by using alignment tools to align the front bushing Monsoon? I need to go buy some tools to do this job?

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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-17-2012, 03:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bull Geek View Post
What do you mean by using alignment tools to align the front bushing Monsoon? I need to go buy some tools to do this job?
Like long punches. When you force the LCA in place the bushing isn't going to line up to the bolt hole in the subframe. It will be close, use the long punches so the bolt can slide through the bushing and subframe.

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