Liquid Force shows the tools necessary to separate the ball joint from the lower control arm, 1st step. And then separate the ball joint from the bracket, 2nd step.
You can buy the pitman arm separator from O'Riellys auto parts without buying the whole kit, $20 bucks I believe. I've used the pitman arm separator several times. Its a good tool to keep around if you're going to do front-end work and saves time.
Last weekend I replaced the lower control arms on both the driver's side and passenger side of my Sable. The drivers side is tricky because you have to lift the engine about an inch to remove the front control arm bolt. This can be done buy using a floor jack and a block of 2x4 of wood. Remove the nut on the driver's side motor mount completely and then jack engine up about and inch.
Passenger side lower control arm is a walk in the park compared to the drivers side. Both of my hockey puck bushing were really bad causing a lot of subframe noise from bumps in the road not to mention it probably plays hells trying to keep the wheels aligned. Passenger side bushing was far worse than the driver's because some of the rubber material was missing !
This will give you clearance to remove the long bolt up front. Oh yeah you have fun installing the new lower control arm as well. Make sure you have alignment tools to do this for the front portion of the control arm.
Seems to me of the two bushings on the control arms the front bushing shaped like a hockey puck are the 1st to go. However Moog makes a replacement bushing for this control arm. The rear bushing appear to last forever.
Both of my lower control arms are available via rockauto.com and made by Moog. About $135 for both shipped. I'm probably going to keep my OEM
lower control arms and push in new Moog bushings.