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Old 10-08-2012, 08:02 PM   #1 (permalink)
Sam
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Default Suspension Replacement

I have the 100% original suspension on my 2000 sable, and in the past 20k miles it has began feeling.. well for the lack of a better term: "old". It creaks sometimes and makes some knocking noises other times. The ride has slowly gone from good to bad.

So here is the question. About a year ago I was quoted somewhere around $500-700 to replace the shocks and struts. I want to know how hard it is to replace them myself. Also what I should replace them with. I don't need a stiffer ride, I'd like to replace them with shocks and struts that give me the most comfortable, smooth ride possible, I'm not racing in this car. If anyone has recommendations for what to use please let me know.

Last question is while I'm replacing them (if I choose to do so), what else should I inspect/replace?

Thanks!
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Old 10-08-2012, 08:41 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Breeves002 View Post
I have the 100% original suspension on my 2000 sable, and in the past 20k miles it has began feeling.. well for the lack of a better term: "old". It creaks sometimes and makes some knocking noises other times. The ride has slowly gone from good to bad.

So here is the question. About a year ago I was quoted somewhere around $500-700 to replace the shocks and struts. I want to know how hard it is to replace them myself. Also what I should replace them with. I don't need a stiffer ride, I'd like to replace them with shocks and struts that give me the most comfortable, smooth ride possible, I'm not racing in this car. If anyone has recommendations for what to use please let me know.

Last question is while I'm replacing them (if I choose to do so), what else should I inspect/replace?

Thanks!
I put Gabriel assembly struts( w/springs ) from auto zone for $300. works good. for creeking sounds you need new ball joints about $25 each at AZ. replaced tie rod ends less than $20 each easy job. struts and ball joints can be a real pain in the ass replace on the Taurus. the rear shocks I replaced on my wagon was a piece of cake.
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Old 10-08-2012, 08:44 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I don't get an creaking noises, I get more of a knocking noise when going over small bumps. May as well replace the ball joints since I'm in there anyways? Struts don't seem too hard to replace, I've watched videos on it. However hardest part seems to be getting the strut back into the axle when you put the new one in (jack up the axle to push them together).
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Old 10-08-2012, 08:48 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Found these: 1995 - 2005 Mercury Sable Mercury Sable 4 Door Sedan Rear Strut & Spring Pair at 1AAuto.com

http://www.1aauto.com/1A/shocks_stru...17/389997/2000

Good parts? Never bought from 1aauto.
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Old 10-08-2012, 09:13 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Breeves002 View Post
I don't get an creaking noises, I get more of a knocking noise when going over small bumps. May as well replace the ball joints since I'm in there anyways? Struts don't seem too hard to replace, I've watched videos on it. However hardest part seems to be getting the strut back into the axle when you put the new one in (jack up the axle to push them together).
noise over bumps, you need struts. I watch the 1aauto video and it looked easy...it was a nightmare, especially the driver side, the hard part is trying to get the ball joint stud out of the lower control arm, you have to lower the subframe to get enough clearance. reinstalling the strut was a pain, banging the bell out of the knuckle to pop it back in place.
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Old 10-08-2012, 09:14 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I would source some KYB Strut Plus assemblies for the front and rear and swap them in if you want a stock ride. RockAuto.com has good deals and good warranty reliability.
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Old 10-08-2012, 09:15 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by glock20man View Post
noise over bumps, you need struts. I watch the 1aauto video and it looked easy...it was a nightmare, especially the driver side, the hard part is trying to get the ball joint stud out of the lower control arm, you have to lower the subframe to get enough clearance. reinstalling the strut was a pain, banging the bell out of the knuckle to pop it back in place.
Man...get some lube out. Lowering the subframe is the trick. I slather the parts in trans fluid or something to aid in getting them to slide on better. Just like I lube the shaft of the PS pump when pressing a pulley back on. Makes life easier.
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Old 10-08-2012, 09:15 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I don't mind either having a stock ride or having a smoother than stock ride. I will sacrifice body roll and handling for comfort. I don't drive this like a race car.
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Old 10-08-2012, 09:17 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bull Geek View Post
Man...get some lube out. Lowering the subframe is the trick. I slather the parts in trans fluid or something to aid in getting them to slide on better. Just like I lube the shaft of the PS pump when pressing a pulley back on. Makes life easier.
So lower the car down so it pushes the strut back into the axle? Makes sense.
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Old 10-08-2012, 09:26 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Bull Geek View Post
Man...get some lube out. Lowering the subframe is the trick. I slather the parts in trans fluid or something to aid in getting them to slide on better. Just like I lube the shaft of the PS pump when pressing a pulley back on. Makes life easier.
I did spray wd 40 and it was still tough......
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