'99 sable LS, with ABS
, drum rear brakes.
Did Bias plug install 2 years ago.
Here's the story.
Hit the brakes they went almost to the floor.
I still had minimal stopping power.
I drove the car 10 miles home, the brake light did not come on until I hit the brakes to stop in the garage.
I had blown a brake line just in front of the driver side rear wheel.
(Seems this is a common spot on these rides.)
I replaced the line from the splitter block at the firewall to the proportioning valve.
This line runs to the passenger side brake.
When I went to bleed the brakes I started at the rear passenger side.
After a quart of fluid and 40 minutes of two man bleeding, I could get 3-4 good stong air free bleeds out of it and then back to the spitting and sputtering of air fluid mix.
Next time I got that far I stopped before it started to spit again and went to the driver side front.
Same thing quart of fluid, 40 minutes of two man bleeding and I could get 3-4 good air free bleeds, then back to the spitting.
Next time I reached this point on the front I stopped, before it started to spit again.
I then went to the drivers rear brake.
No air what so ever here, 5-6 good solid air free, shoot the fluid across the room bleeds.
Went to the passenger side front same thing solid air free bleeds.
Returned to the Passenger rear, nothing but air came out.
Got it back to the point of a solid stream and had to go get more brake fluid.
When I returned I was right back were I started, minimal fluid lots of air.
I rechecked all my connections for tightness, inspected lines, looked for puddles.
Nothing everything is dry and tight.
I see no fluid dripping or running down the booster either.
After sitting all day with the cap off the master, the level is the same.
So now I'm thinking the master cylinder is shot, I replaced it two years ago.
I talked to the mechanic, told him that fluid shoots back into the master, from the rear, when the brake is depressed he said that was normal.
He also told me the master on this car is like every other master, even though it has the diagnol circiut pattern.
The front half is for the rears, the back applies pressure for the front.
Being able to bleed one rear and one front means the master is good.
So I figure the master must be holding air some how.
I cracked the lines at the master and blead them seperately.
I got huge amounts of air out of both front and back.
When I got airless bleeds on both I thought I was good to go but.
When trying to bleed the rear passenger again nothing has changed, still spitting away.
I got two friends over now, one to pump, one to crack the bleeder.
This way I can move around and try to listen and look for leaks.
Everything still tight, leak free.
However now I can pour fluid in as it is being blead.
After each bleed air erupts from the front hole in the bottom of the master.
Shut bleeder, let pedal up, wait a few seconds then air bubbling through.
It bubbles up with enough force to almost over flow.
So no leaks, no puddles, everything is tight.
6 hours of bleeding, 5 quarts of brake fluid through the Right rear, front left brakes.
I have clean new brake fluid coming out.
What do you think?
Should there be a check valve in the master that would keep air from returning?
I've done 40 years of brakes and never had such an issue.
Need less to say I'm pretty pissed off.
Between lines, couplers, unions, brake fluid I'm into this for $70.
A new master would be another $40, that's a $110.
It probably wouldn't have cost much more to drop it off at the shop.
Any help is appreciated.