Ball Joint Replacement on my '03 Sable. - Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum
Register Home Forums Active Topics Topic Finder Photos Members List Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read Auto EscrowAuto Loans
TaurusClub.com is the premier Ford Taurus Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 08-27-2010, 02:09 AM   #1 (permalink)
Junior Member
 
Member Number: 14978
Join Date: Mar 2008
Visit: My Garage
Posts: 36
Trader Score: 0 reviews
Rep Power: 0
Pepse has a little shameless behaviour in the past
Default Ball Joint Replacement on my '03 Sable.

I couldn't find anything in the general search or "Topic Finder" on replacing the ball joints in my '03 Sable. There are articles for the GEN 3 Taurus/Sable but not GEN 4. I thought there was something said tho that the GEN 3 are pressed in and GEN 4 are not. And just to say it must be the ball joints as the noise didn't start until I had the Quick Strut kit done on all 4 corners. After I got the car back I have a "noise" from the front. Not the CV's tho, steering is tight and true. I did replace the tie rod ends and it helped a little. There was a vibration in the front right area that was cured with the new tie rod ends. And the noise problem isn't as frequent. Noise is noticeable at any speed and any surface. Have driven on a 4 mile stretch of new concrete and a 1 mile stretch of new asphalt. Anyway, is there a tutorial for the GEN 4 Taurus/Sable? Or do I go by the GEN 3 guide?

Pepse.
__________________
REMEMBER! Always fasten your seatbelt as it makes it harder for the Aliens to suck you out of your car!
Pepse is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 08-27-2010, 03:36 AM   #2 (permalink)
Junior Member
 
Member Number: 25569
Join Date: Jan 2010
Visit: My Garage
Posts: 95
Trader Score: 0 reviews
Rep Power: 0
Vashthestanbeto has a little shameless behaviour in the past
Default

I've just done both sides with some friends. The easier way will be to drop the subframe in order to gain clearance for the spindle to come back into the control arm/A-arm. Both Gen 3 and 4 have the ball joints pressed into the spindles and it will take you a while to press them out/in. We went on the hard way..aka..not dropping the subframe, and it took like 3 hours and a large number of hostile words to get the driver side spindle attached back into the control arm.
Vashthestanbeto is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 08-28-2010, 03:21 PM   #3 (permalink)
Junior Member
 
Member Number: 14978
Join Date: Mar 2008
Visit: My Garage
Posts: 36
Trader Score: 0 reviews
Rep Power: 0
Pepse has a little shameless behaviour in the past
Default

Drop the sub frame? You mean the whole front end? Or, if you mean something not as drastic as I am understanding tell me.

Pepse.
__________________
REMEMBER! Always fasten your seatbelt as it makes it harder for the Aliens to suck you out of your car!
Pepse is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 08-28-2010, 04:20 PM   #4 (permalink)
Member
 
Member Number: 4266
Join Date: Nov 2004
Visit: My Garage
Posts: 437
Trader Score: 0 reviews
Rep Power: 0
toronut has a little shameless behaviour in the past
Default

WOOT? What does dropping the sub-frame have anything to do with Ball-Joints?? AmI on Planet X??
toronut is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 08-28-2010, 10:09 PM   #5 (permalink)
Crazy Devoted Member


 
rudedog's Avatar
 
Member Number: 113
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Houston, Texas
Visit: My Garage
Posts: 7,593
Trader Score: 0 reviews
Rep Power: 40
rudedog is on a distinguished road
Send a message via AIM to rudedog Send a message via MSN to rudedog Send a message via Yahoo to rudedog
Default

obviously you are, and probably not read any of the other 11tybillion ball joint replacement threads.
__________________
Rudy Heinemann Jr.



May 2008 Car of The Month/Car of the Year 2008
'93 GL 3.0L, BOOTY'S BLUE BUCKET O' BOLTS
February Car of the Month T.S.O.C.
March Car of The Month T.C.C.A.
2003 SES 3.0L, GHOST

'93 SHO 3.2L, SNIPER SHO
rudedog is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 08-28-2010, 10:17 PM   #6 (permalink)
Junior Member
 
Member Number: 25569
Join Date: Jan 2010
Visit: My Garage
Posts: 95
Trader Score: 0 reviews
Rep Power: 0
Vashthestanbeto has a little shameless behaviour in the past
Default

It doesn't directly affect the baljoints, however lowering the subframe on the side you are working on will make the job drastically easier. the balljoints of a 96-07 taurus is pressed into the buttom of the spindle, where it is then connected to the lower control arm. Under normal circumstances there is nearly no clearance for the spindle, once removed from the strut and lower control arm in order to have the old ball joint pressed out and new one pressed in , to be assembled back with the lower control arm(since you will have to mount it back onto your struts first, as there woulden't be enough cleanence to put the strut back into the spindle, if you decide to make the spindle-lower control arm connection first) , but since the lower control arm itself is mounted to the subframe, lowering the subframe slightly will also lower the lower control arm so when you press down on it to gain clearance it can go a lot lower compared to if the sub frame isn't lowered, give you a lot more room to work with when trying to force the ball joint shaft into aligning with the pivot hole on the lower control arm. It is possible to re-attach the spindle-lower control arm without lowering the subframe(we did the driver side this way) but it is almost certainly take a lot longer then to simply lower the subframe slightly , reassemble the spindle onto the strut first, then with someone else applying downward force to the lower control arm, push the strut-spindle assembly towards it, re-align the ball joint shaft on the buttom of the spindle with the hole on lower control arm, and release tension from the lower control arm in order to re-attach them. rest of reassembly work is a piece of cake.
Vashthestanbeto is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 08-29-2010, 12:06 AM   #7 (permalink)
Junior Member
 
Member Number: 14978
Join Date: Mar 2008
Visit: My Garage
Posts: 36
Trader Score: 0 reviews
Rep Power: 0
Pepse has a little shameless behaviour in the past
Default

So, to replace the ball joints on a FWD car is alot more difficult than a RWD car; i.e. I'd be better off taking it in and pay to have it done. Right?

Pepse.
__________________
REMEMBER! Always fasten your seatbelt as it makes it harder for the Aliens to suck you out of your car!
Pepse is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 08-31-2010, 08:35 PM   #8 (permalink)
Devoted Member
 
dlc360's Avatar
 
Member Number: 9726
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Parma Hts, Ohio
Chapter: Midwest
Drives: 2003 Taurus SE Wagon. 12-2007 TCCA COTM 08-2011 TCCA ROTM
Visit: My Garage
Posts: 1,638
Trader Score: 1 reviews
Rep Power: 20
dlc360 will become famous soon enough
Send a message via Yahoo to dlc360
Default

I wouldnt say you have to take it somelace and pay to get them changed. Its a really easy job if you are good at working on cars. I changed the ball joints on my 99 a few times and never lowered the sub frame. It may make things easier, but it also means you will need to get a front end alignment. If you dont move the sub frame, you wont need an alignment. When I did my 99, I took the stearing knuckle AND the lower control arm off as a unit, and then split them on the bench, for me that was a very easy fix and I didnt need front end alignment.
__________________


DLC360 2003 Taurus SE Wagon.
A daily driver that thinks its a show car.
December 2007 COTM, August 2011 ROTM
Aug. 2010 T.S.O.C. COTM & 2010 T.S.O.C. COTY
24 Time Award & Trophy Winner
03/31/2006 - 04/11/2012

Presently driving,
2011 Mercedes Benz C300 4matic Sport 3.0L V6
2003 Mercedes Benz CLK430 Cabriolet 4.3L V8
1987 Porsche 924S 2.5L 4cyl.
dlc360 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-01-2010, 12:04 AM   #9 (permalink)
Junior Member
 
Member Number: 14978
Join Date: Mar 2008
Visit: My Garage
Posts: 36
Trader Score: 0 reviews
Rep Power: 0
Pepse has a little shameless behaviour in the past
Default

Okay, that sounds better. I mean yeah I've been working on cars for what? pushin' 40m years. RWD, of course. On the one hand I really detest working on FWD cars but I don't have anymore extra cash to have someone replace the ball joints so I gotta try it myself. If the mechanic would have checked the car out better I had the cash then. But then again he stated that when all was said and done that I had a noise from the tie rod ends but since it aligned good it should be no big deal. Yeah right, noisier than he realizes. I'll stop. Sorry for the rant but this annoys me.

dlc360, I will give this a whirl soon and post when I finish. Might be a couple weeks but I'll get it.

Later. Pepse.
__________________
REMEMBER! Always fasten your seatbelt as it makes it harder for the Aliens to suck you out of your car!
Pepse is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-03-2011, 07:47 PM   #10 (permalink)
Junior Member
 
Member Number: 17507
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Macedonia, Oh 44056
Chapter: Midwest
Drives: 2002 SES, Forest Green, 3.0 "U" code.
Visit: My Garage
Posts: 21
Trader Score: 0 reviews
Rep Power: 0
ohiotaurus02 has a little shameless behaviour in the past
Default

Lowering the subframe is definitely a big help. When I was replacing the front strut/spring assembly on my 2002 Tuarus, I found that when pushing down on the control arm, there was still about 3/4" room needed for the bottom of the ball joint to clear the control arm. I even bent a 6 foot length of pipe trying to push down on the control arm enough to get the ball joint clear.
ohiotaurus02 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply


Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:33 PM.



Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2