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Old 03-30-2010, 07:48 PM   #1 (permalink)
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I purchased a 2003 Ford Taurus used in 2006 and it had 32,000 miles on it. The rotor issue was present around 37,000 miles. It was really bad, there was vibration in the steering wheel and there was a nasty sound that could be heard on the outside and inside of the car. I had the rotors and brakes replaced. My car now has 106,000 miles and I am going on my third set of rotors and brakes. I am averaging about 30,000 miles before the rotors start warping. I have owned Ford's all of my life. My Dad worked for Ford's for 30 years. I have never had problems with brakes on my other Fords. My car before the Taurus was a 1995 Ford Contour. I replaced rotors and brakes at 100,000 miles on the Contour. I know it is not my driving habits that are causing the rotors to warp. I am also disappointed in the rust that is occurring on my Taurus. I noticed someone else mentioned rust on their Taurus. I have seen at least five other Taurusís that have rust on the driver side rear quarter panel. On my car and the others I have noticed are always on the same side. The rest of the car has no visible rust. My Contour was 10 years old and had no visible rust. I would still be driving it if I had not hit a deer with it. I also recently had to replace a coil pack on the Taurus. I do like the way the car handles in snow. The ride is decent also. I thought the gas mileage would be better, but it is not extremely bad. I average back and forth to work roughly 22 miles per gallon. My drive to work is a mostly highway and express way speeds. My wife drives a 2008 Fusion with a 6 cylinder and it gets 26 miles per gallon, she drives the same route I do to work. I do not have a lead foot and use the cruise control a lot. As much as I am disappointed in my Taurus I would not go buy a Japanese car. Don't be fooled, Japanese cars have issues also. In fact all car manufactures have issues. With all of this said I would probably not buy another Taurus. One more thing I don't understand, my Wife and I drove a 1998 Taurus for over 10 years and did not have any issues with Brakes or rust. The 1998 Taurus had 165,000 miles on it and I never had work done on the transmission or Engine. What did Ford do to the later versions of the Taurus?

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Old 03-30-2010, 08:54 PM   #2 (permalink)
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You probably have a sticky caliper. Flushing and replacing the brake fluid is going to help. Or you could replace the calipers as well (not that expensive). While you are at it, regrease the slider pin. That should take care of the rotor warping problem.

As far as the rust fender well... well... yeah. People say the only way to avoid that when ur in the salt belt is to have mud flaps... The way that fender well is designed, the paint can peel very easily. After that it's all down hill until everything is rusted out.
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Old 03-30-2010, 09:16 PM   #3 (permalink)
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QUOTE (yiranhu @ Mar 30 2010, 08:54 PM)
Quote:
You probably have a sticky caliper. Flushing and replacing the brake fluid is going to help. Or you could replace the calipers as well (not that expensive). While you are at it, regrease the slider pin. That should take care of the rotor warping problem.

As far as the rust fender well... well... yeah. People say the only way to avoid that when ur in the salt belt is to have mud flaps... The way that fender well is designed, the paint can peel very easily. After that it's all down hill until everything is rusted out.[/b]

Sticky caliper could cause the rotor to overheat and warp. Would also explain the low MPG. Flushing brake fluid may prevent it from happening again, but probably won't fix an already sticking caliper. Should be a simple operation to jack up the car and see if pads are dragging.

Rust happens. I have some over the rear wheelwells on the Ranger, on the doors of the Mustang, and over the rear wheelwell near the fuel door on the 96 Taurus. It's like any other problem, if you don't fix it, it gets worse.

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Old 03-30-2010, 09:39 PM   #4 (permalink)
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QUOTE (yiranhu @ Mar 30 2010, 08:54 PM)
Quote:
You probably have a sticky caliper. Flushing and replacing the brake fluid is going to help. Or you could replace the calipers as well (not that expensive). While you are at it, regrease the slider pin. That should take care of the rotor warping problem.

As far as the rust fender well... well... yeah. People say the only way to avoid that when ur in the salt belt is to have mud flaps... The way that fender well is designed, the paint can peel very easily. After that it's all down hill until everything is rusted out.[/b]


Yiranhu,

Thank you for the suggestion. I have had the brake fluid flushed. I believe I still could have a sticky caliper. I will have the caliper checked. I do notice sometimes when back out of my garage my brakes do squeek. Maybe the calipers are sticking.

Thanks again.
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Old 03-30-2010, 09:48 PM   #5 (permalink)
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QUOTE (Lazarus96 @ Mar 30 2010, 09:16 PM)
Quote:
QUOTE (yiranhu @ Mar 30 2010, 08:54 PM)
Quote:
You probably have a sticky caliper. Flushing and replacing the brake fluid is going to help. Or you could replace the calipers as well (not that expensive). While you are at it, regrease the slider pin. That should take care of the rotor warping problem.

As far as the rust fender well... well... yeah. People say the only way to avoid that when ur in the salt belt is to have mud flaps... The way that fender well is designed, the paint can peel very easily. After that it's all down hill until everything is rusted out.[/b]

Sticky caliper could cause the rotor to overheat and warp. Would also explain the low MPG. Flushing brake fluid may prevent it from happening again, but probably won't fix an already sticking caliper. Should be a simple operation to jack up the car and see if pads are dragging.

Rust happens. I have some over the rear wheelwells on the Ranger, on the doors of the Mustang, and over the rear wheelwell near the fuel door on the 96 Taurus. It's like any other problem, if you don't fix it, it gets worse.
[/b][/quote]


Lazarus96,

Thank you for the suggestions.

Regarding the rust, I have seen other Taurus owners reporting that the rust is behind the fender where you can not easily access it. When the rust appeared I sanded it off, primered it, and painted it. In a couple of weeks the rust was showing again. One Taurus owner who posted the issue said the dealer sanded the down a good portion of the fender and primered and painted it; with in a couple of months rust started showing up again. I think the whole fender would have to be replaced. I just thought it was odd that 5 other Taurus's I have seen have the rust on the same side and location. It just makes me wonder why is it the driver side read quarter panel. The rest of the car looks great. Oh well, I just need to get over it and drive the car until it drops and not worry about the rust. I don't think I want to spend the money on replacing the whole quarter panel with a newly painted one. A new quarter panel probably would not blend properly anyway.

Thanks again.
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Old 03-30-2010, 10:01 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I think the caliper is good place to start as recommended. I am curious, do you think the caliper has been bad from the time I owned the car starting at 32,000 miles? If so, I would say I am disappointed with the Belle Tire and the Ford Dealership who have replaced my rotors and brakes for not catching this. Unless determining the condition of calipers is a difficult thing and has to get really bad before you know for sure. I have replaced brakes my self in cars from the past but never have replaced a caliper.
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Old 03-31-2010, 08:26 PM   #7 (permalink)
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That section between the rear door and rear wheelwell is called the dogleg.
Some bright engineers at ford thought it was a good idea to place some foam between the two sheet metal layers for sound deadining purposes.

Instead, that foam traps the moisture and......you get the rusty dog legs.
Some car have none, some on one side, some on both sides.
It's a crap shoot........

Mud flaps or none have nothing to do with it.
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Old 04-02-2010, 02:45 PM   #8 (permalink)
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My 01m SEL has the same rust and brake issue.

The rust is at the top of the drivers side rear door wheel well. Its actaully bleeding through and pushing the paint off of the metal...wierd.

The brakes have been "Squeeling " when I turn hard (mostly to the right). Its a ear piercing sound. It started when I replaced the pads/rotor @ 55k miles and slowly dissappeared. I recently replace the pads again @ 125K and the noice is back in full ear-piercing force. Now the wheel is starting the shake when I brake hard @ higher speeds. Any thoughts ?
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Old 04-02-2010, 11:34 PM   #9 (permalink)
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QUOTE (duraSEL @ Mar 31 2010, 09:26 PM)
Quote:
That section between the rear door and rear wheelwell is called the dogleg.
Some bright engineers at ford thought it was a good idea to place some foam between the two sheet metal layers for sound deadining purposes.

Instead, that foam traps the moisture and......you get the rusty dog legs.
Some car have none, some on one side, some on both sides.
It's a crap shoot........

Mud flaps or none have nothing to do with it.[/b]

DuraSel,

Thank you for the reply. It makes since how you describe it. Do you think this foam barrier was in the 1998 Taurus? I had a 1998 for over 10 years and there was absolutely no visible rust to be found.

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Old 04-02-2010, 11:55 PM   #10 (permalink)
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QUOTE (Toreazz @ Apr 2 2010, 03:45 PM)
Quote:
My 01m SEL has the same rust and brake issue.

The rust is at the top of the drivers side rear door wheel well. Its actaully bleeding through and pushing the paint off of the metal...wierd.

The brakes have been "Squeeling " when I turn hard (mostly to the right). Its a ear piercing sound. It started when I replaced the pads/rotor @ 55k miles and slowly dissappeared. I recently replace the pads again @ 125K and the noice is back in full ear-piercing force. Now the wheel is starting the shake when I brake hard @ higher speeds. Any thoughts ?[/b]
Toreazz,

The rust did a similiar thing to my car. It actually started out with the paint bubbling up. Once the bubbled up paint chipped away the rust visibility came fast. I even sanded the visible rust away and primered it and painted it. The paint job that I did lasted maybe a week or two and then the rust color came back. From what I am hearing it is an up hill battle. I did complain on the Ford Motor Company web site and did get a response. The reply asked for my vehicle vin number and who my local Ford Dealership is. I sent the original email a few days ago from the road why traveling for business. I need to send the requested information and see if Ford will do anything. You might want to complain too about the rust.

Regarding the brakes have you confirmed the calipers are not sticking? I had some previous recommendations to check the calipers. I am trying to figure out where to take my car to get the calipers checked. I am getting to the point where I do not trust any mechanics. It is true, if you find a good and honest mechanic stick with them. As I mentioned in my earlier posting, I am surprised if it is a caliper issue, no one caught this before. I guess it could be caliper now and was not in the past. I just find it odd around 30,000 miles I am encountering the same issue with the shake in the steering wheel. In the past I was told it was my rotors. In every case it has cost me approximately $400.00 to get the rotors and brake shoes replaced. That gets expensive over time. By the way, when I complained to Ford about the rust I also complained in the same email about the rotors and brakes. Ford never mentioned in the response email my complaint about the rotors and brakes. I am wondering if anyone out there with a Taurus in the years 2000 to 2006 have been able to get long life out of their rotors and brakes. As I mentioned in my earlier thread I have went over 100,000 miles on a set of rotors and brakes on different Ford cars I have owned. In fact one of the cars I did get over 100,000 miles on was my 1998 Taurus. Another difference between the 1998 and 2003 is my 1998 had anti lock brakes where my 2003 does not. I am not sure if it makes a difference about the anti lock brakes or not. Although as I think about it, my 1995 Contour did not have anti lock brakes and I was able to go 100,000 miles on rotors and brakes. I mostly drive highway and expressway miles to work. If you find out anything please let me know. I will post a reply if I find out something with my Taurus.
Good luck.

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