Strut Removal - Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-25-2009, 12:23 PM Thread Starter
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I watched a video on the topic finder about strut removal and spring replacement. After watching it, I have 2 questions. When removing the strut do you have to remove the ball joint from the control arm or can you just loosen the pinch bolt to detach the bottom part of the strut? Also It says on the wiki here to use a Pittman arm puller and on the video they did not. Is the arm puller necessary?
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-25-2009, 12:58 PM
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Leave the ball joint, drop the subframe. Support the car just behind the rear subframe mount, then position the jack under the subframe. You might not even have to remove the bolts completely, just loosen them. Slowly drop it and slide the strut out of the knuckle at the same time.

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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-25-2009, 01:00 PM Thread Starter
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I was actually talking about the front end. Is removing the pinch bolt the only thing involved in freeing the bottom part of the strut from the control arm?
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-25-2009, 01:26 PM
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Yes, the pinch bolt is the ONLY thing holding the bottom of the strut to the KNUCKLE. And maybe some rust, but I usually don't have to deal with that.

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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-25-2009, 02:40 PM
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you may not have to drop the subframe i was able to pull my struts with just taking out the pintch bolt pulling off the end links and the 3 bolts from the top
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-26-2009, 08:25 AM
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I've done struts on 1 3rd Gen and 2 4th Gens, and I had to lower the subframe every time. I also had to undo the ball joint, as well.

JR


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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-16-2009, 09:56 AM
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QUOTE (rudedog @ Jan 25 2009, 01:58 PM)
Quote:
Leave the ball joint, drop the subframe. Support the car just behind the rear subframe mount, then position the jack under the subframe. You might not even have to remove the bolts completely, just loosen them. Slowly drop it and slide the strut out of the knuckle at the same time.[/b]
How difficult are these bolts on the Gen IV?
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-16-2009, 10:46 AM
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QUOTE (starliner53 @ Mar 16 2009, 09:56 AM)
Quote:
QUOTE (rudedog @ Jan 25 2009, 01:58 PM)
Quote:
Leave the ball joint, drop the subframe. Support the car just behind the rear subframe mount, then position the jack under the subframe. You might not even have to remove the bolts completely, just loosen them. Slowly drop it and slide the strut out of the knuckle at the same time.[/b]
How difficult are these bolts on the Gen IV?
[/b][/quote]
No more difficult than any other bolt.

It's an 18mm bolt, IIRC, and it's long, 4-5 inches. Grab a 1/2" breaker bar and an 18mm socket, support the subframe, and start going to town. After you're done with the subframe, and you reinstall the bolts, hit them liberally with some Never Seize, then torque them to...50-76 lb/ft.

JR


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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-20-2011, 10:25 PM
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Noise in rear end

last week I was sitting at a red light, light changed and I heard a noise that sounded like a big spring hitting metal i pulled in a lot and looked under the car but nothing was hanging down and i bounced the car and it didnt make any noise, i just had a rear brake job done 4 months ago, b4 that i had heard a noise that sounded like a Ping sometimes when i would let off the brake. anyone have any thoughts of what i should do?
its an 2007 taurus Sel with 70K on it
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-21-2011, 01:53 PM
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I have changed front struts in 2 gen 1s and a gen 4. I did not have to lower the subframe in any of these cases.

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