Replacing Subframe Bushings - Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum
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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-13-2006, 11:41 PM Thread Starter
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how challenging of a job is replacing the subframe bushings? is it a DIY job or should I save it for a garage? I get a little clunking up front in my '01 ses duratec, mainly when turning the wheel completely left to completely right or the opposite, also the occasional clunk when shifting into drive or reverse. car has 102000 miles on it anyway, probly time to do the bushings, what kind of life do these things have?

ball joints replaced, moog endlinks installed, new tires, alignment, im thinkin subframe bushings... got a pretty bad vibration at highway speeds and that clunking...

so how bad of a job is this? thanks.

-Ryan

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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-14-2006, 01:01 AM
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well i wouldn't discount the fact it could be the bushings, but have you considered te possibility it could be motor mounts also?


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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-14-2006, 01:03 AM Thread Starter
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sorry about that i forgot to mention that when i had the alignment done the $tealership checked the motor mounts per my request and they said they were tight, i also checked them myself and they are in good shape. thank for the suggestion though, keep 'em coming...

-Ryan

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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-14-2006, 01:44 AM
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You can do it in the driveway. The car needs to be supported on the chassis, not the subframe. Do one at a time. You'll work on a pair at a time, but only remove one at a time. Loosen both fronts a few turns. Then completely remove the bolt from one. The front's have a main bolt, and a couple smaller bolts IIRC, the rears just have the one big bolt. After the new one is installed, screw the big bolt in at least 3-5 full turns, but do not tighten it. Now work one the other side. When you tighten everything up, don't tighten them all the way, just turn each one a couple turns, then move to the next until both are tight. Do the fronts, tighten them down, then move to the back and follow the same procedure. I forget what the torque is, but I wanna say it's around 75-85lbs/ft or more.

I may have also placed the jack under the subframe as added support once I removed the bolts. Then use the jack to lower the subframe until the bushing would come out.

My right front was worn out at 65k miles. This is a picture of the Aluminum subframe bushing installed.

[attachmentid=14484]

RIP TCCA

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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-14-2006, 02:28 AM Thread Starter
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awesome thanks!!! maybe that should be a sticky especially with the awesome pic! is an alignment required afterwards? what were the symptoms that yours were dead? thanks!

-Ryan

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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-14-2006, 06:58 AM
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torysdaddy88, just a heads up that if you go with ASFB's your ride with be more harsher. You will feel the road and it's imperfections more. You have another thread going about vibrations coming from the front end. With ASFB's it'll be more pronouned vs OEM SFB's. If you are looking for that soft/smooth ride, I would go with OEM SFB's. The ASFB will give you tighter steering in corners, but at the expense of a rougher ride.


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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-14-2006, 07:43 AM
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Ryan...I did a write-up in the Wiki for subframe bushing installation with ALSFBs.

There are no pictures, but it is COMPLETE. Link to Wiki article

If you have any more questions, definitely let me know.

JR


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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-14-2006, 08:13 AM
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they way i knew mine and my sister's cars both had bad bushings.... lift up the car on the bodymount.. when lifting the car, the subframe would drop 1 inch... not supposed to happen.


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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-14-2006, 08:21 AM
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If you do not want the "harshness" of ALSB's, go with the Gen III/IV rears in all four corners. be careful when removing the fronts as the four 10mm (I believe) nuts on the top have a tendency to rust on. One way that works well is to not try to loosen them, but tighten them until the break off.

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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-14-2006, 09:39 AM
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Quote:
If you do not want the "harshness" of ALSB's, go with the Gen III/IV rears in all four corners. be careful when removing the fronts as the four 10mm (I believe) nuts on the top have a tendency to rust on. One way that works well is to not try to loosen them, but tighten them until the break off. [/b]
Ditto on both the rear SFB's and tightening the small bolts on the fronts to break them off. I didn't even bother to try to loosen those small bolts when I put AlSFB's in my SHO. just snapped them right off, then went about my business.

- Daniel

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