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Old 11-27-2012, 05:14 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Subs and Assorted audio questions

Okay okay okay, I know there is TONS of info out there on this, and probably plenty on this site, but I wanted some opinions from some others.

I just bought 2 subs and an amp from another member on TCCA, and while waiting for them to come in I'm thinking of getting ready and buying my wiring and box.

They are two 12" subs rated to 1000 watts, and a 1000 watt amp.

Anyways, I can't find a single box on craigslist, so this is my next best option (I have prime, so free two day shipping):
Amazon.com: Atrend E12Dsv B Box Series 12-Inch Dual Vented Enclosure with Shared Chamber: Car Electronics Amazon.com: Atrend E12Dsv B Box Series 12-Inch Dual Vented Enclosure with Shared Chamber: Car Electronics

I also want to get wiring. Anyone have any recommendations for a wiring kit, or to make my own wiring? A link from amazon will be helpful if you think I should purchase a kit. I want to make the remote wire go to a switch that I'll put on the dash somewhere. That way I can turn them off when I don't want all that extra bass.

I plan to use a line out converter from the rear deck speakers to give the subs an audio signal. Anyone find a link to the one I should use on amazon for me please?

Anything I am over looking or forgetting? I don't know how to explain the place I'm going to put the ground, but I had a friend who did it on his taurus and it works fine.
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Old 11-27-2012, 10:21 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Amazon.com: Boss KIT-2 Complete 8 Gauge Amplifier Installation Kit: Electronics Amazon.com: Boss KIT-2 Complete 8 Gauge Amplifier Installation Kit: Electronics
<--- get this kit, or the one you texted me a link to earlier
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Old 11-27-2012, 10:25 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Read the reviews on the one you linked. Is it still ok?

What about this one?
Amazon.com: DB Link PK4Z 4 Gauge Power Series Amplifier Installation Kit: Electronics Amazon.com: DB Link PK4Z 4 Gauge Power Series Amplifier Installation Kit: Electronics

I'll buy the cheap one if you think it's the right thing! Just don't want something to not work correctly.
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Old 11-27-2012, 10:29 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Breeves002 View Post
Okay okay okay, I know there is TONS of info out there on this, and probably plenty on this site, but I wanted some opinions from some others.

I just bought 2 subs and an amp from another member on TCCA, and while waiting for them to come in I'm thinking of getting ready and buying my wiring and box.

They are two 12" subs rated to 1000 watts, and a 1000 watt amp.

Anyways, I can't find a single box on craigslist, so this is my next best option (I have prime, so free two day shipping): Amazon.com: Atrend E12Dsv B Box Series 12-Inch Dual Vented Enclosure with Shared Chamber: Car Electronics

I also want to get wiring. Anyone have any recommendations for a wiring kit, or to make my own wiring? A link from amazon will be helpful if you think I should purchase a kit. I want to make the remote wire go to a switch that I'll put on the dash somewhere. That way I can turn them off when I don't want all that extra bass.

I plan to use a line out converter from the rear deck speakers to give the subs an audio signal. Anyone find a link to the one I should use on amazon for me please?

Anything I am over looking or forgetting? I don't know how to explain the place I'm going to put the ground, but I had a friend who did it on his taurus and it works fine.
are the subs 1000 watts RMS or max..?? do you got aftermarket head unit?? I don't think you do cause your looking for some place to put your remote wire so you can turn your subs on and off. rear deck speakers to give your subs a signal???? you got me on that! make your own wire????? just buy the wire, 0 to 4 gage. as for buying a box and other info get it at SONICELECTRONIX.COM
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Old 11-27-2012, 10:31 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Max, not sure on the RMS rating. That would be nice lol.

No, stock radio. I'm using whats called a line out converter to take the signal coming to the rear deck speakers and send it to the subs. It's how people who don't want to put a aftermarket head unit in do. I had a friend do it.
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Old 11-27-2012, 10:50 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Breeves002 View Post
Max, not sure on the RMS rating. That would be nice lol.

No, stock radio. I'm using whats called a line out converter to take the signal coming to the rear deck speakers and send it to the subs. It's how people who don't want to put a aftermarket head unit in do. I had a friend do it.
Be a whole lot easier if if you had an aftermarket head unit this way you can control the subs from the head unit (turn on or off) and connect the signal wires for the subs to the preouts in the head unit. should say on the back of the subs rms ratings..or I can tell you this on the brand name and model of your subs.
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Old 11-27-2012, 10:52 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Hybrid/Stealth system. Kenwood head unit, kickers in the doors, pioneers in the rear, Alpine power pack putting power to the 4 speakers, 10" Rockford Punch with a Rockford Prime R500-1d daisy chained to a Prime R250-1d .... 375watts rms. And would put it up against any dual 10" setup, or a 12" setup.
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Old 11-27-2012, 10:59 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Intercept View Post
Hybrid/Stealth system. Kenwood head unit, kickers in the doors, pioneers in the rear, Alpine power pack putting power to the 4 speakers, 10" Rockford Punch with a Rockford Prime R500-1d daisy chained to a Prime R250-1d .... 375watts rms. And would put it up against any dual 10" setup, or a 12" setup.
Unlikely my tens would make the vehicles floor flex and exhaust pipe rattle and move. And my 12" setup did over a 140 tuned to 29hz on about 600 watts.
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Old 11-27-2012, 10:59 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Intercept View Post
Hybrid/Stealth system. Kenwood head unit, kickers in the doors, pioneers in the rear, Alpine power pack putting power to the 4 speakers, 10" Rockford Punch with a Rockford Prime R500-1d daisy chained to a Prime R250-1d .... 375watts rms. And would put it up against any dual 10" setup, or a 12" setup.
sound good except for the Kenwood head unit, pioneer units are better.
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Old 11-28-2012, 12:43 AM   #10 (permalink)
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The choice of box type should depend entirely on the subwoofers. Do not stick a subwoofer into a random box you can find on the net. Each subwoofer has a set of T/S parameters associated with it (qes, qtc, etc). These parameters govern the best kind of box arrangement for the subwoofer. Some subwoofers are clearly geared towards vented/ported box and others are more geared towards sealed box. Some are somewhere in between.

Getting a sealed box subwoofer right is easy. All you need to get right is the volume of the box. Box modeling software can tell you the optimal sealed box volume to achieve a qtc 0.7. Box qtc is a sort of a unitless parameter that lets you tune box's transient response, power handling, and low end extension. 0.7 is considered the most balanced qtc, but anything in 0.55 - 0.855 region is probably good. If the subwoofer needs a >2cu ft box to achieve a reasonable qtc, you know it's not a right subwoofer for car audio even though it's marketed as such. In any case, getting the box volume off by 20-30% from the optimal usually will not hurt the sound much.

Getting the ported box right is a lot harder. The goal is usually to get a flat frequency response down to the tuning frequency, or a gently decaying lows (which may be a good thing inside of a car as car's cabin adds some boost to lowest frequencies) For each subwoofer, there is an optimal tuning frequency and box size. These two depend on subwoofer T/S parameters. The box volume and tuning frequency together with the port area will dictate the port length. Box design can influence how the subwoofer sounds, and also how much power it will handle. Port area depends on the box volume. I have heard a rule of thumb that a port area should be something like no less than 15 sq inches per cubic foot of volume. However, the bigger the port area, the longer port needs to be. The lower the tuning frequency the longer is the port. The smaller box volume, the longer is the port (volume used by the port is not considered as part of box volume here). Another rule of thumb is that the ratio of height to width of a slot port should be no more than 8. A square port or round vent is considered better, but sometimes harder to implement.

Why am I saying all of this? If you stick a random subwoofer into a random ported box, it will probably sound like poo. Ported box should be custom designed, custom built for each subwoofer. If some pre-manufactured box happens to work out well for a given subwoofer, it's just by sheer luck. I'd suggest to download box modeling software, a good tutorial and see if you can design a better box.

A lot of pre-manufactured boxes are tuned pretty high, something like in 40-60Hz region. This will give you a huge sonic energy in the 50Hz region, really loud, but low end extension below that non existent, which will result in an unrealistic sound. Basically a noise making tool rather than a music reproduction device.

Last edited by fct; 11-28-2012 at 12:59 AM.
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