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Old 09-23-2011, 09:41 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Thumbs down How do I replace brake pads in my 2008 Taurus X, What do I have to remove?

2008 Taurus X with shot rear pads. Never seen any brakes like this. 2 bolts holding caliper onto the rear support and 2 bolts on the slide pins where the caliper actually moves the pads together plus a funny large spring in the rear of the caliper going vertically plus the spring on the emergency brake cable.
How do you get the piston in far enough to remove the old pads?
How much must you remove to do this.
I have the funny cube with small *** like projections to compress the piston once I get the pads off but don't know what to do to accomplish that. Have never had to remove the hydraulic line when just replacing pads. Looks like I might have to remove the E brake cable but not sure about that. What about the large vertical spring at the rear of the caliper?
Can someone tell me what, and in what order I have to remoive to get the old pads off and compress the piston before installing new pads.
Have done a lot of brakes but this one takes the cake.
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Old 09-23-2011, 12:32 PM   #2 (permalink)
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http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/98-solutions-common-problems-how-articles/129729-rear-disc-brake-service-how.html

Should get you started. Check a Haines or dealership for a tech sheet. My dealer gives me printouts from the service manual usually free with a parts purchase or two for good will. Surprising what kind of help comes form the right questions.
Good luck!!
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Old 09-23-2011, 04:39 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Default Link doesn't work but I found the diagram

Quote:
Originally Posted by downhill View Post
http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/98-solutions-common-problems-how-articles/129729-rear-disc-brake-service-how.html

Should get you started. Check a Haines or dealership for a tech sheet. My dealer gives me printouts from the service manual usually free with a parts purchase or two for good will. Surprising what kind of help comes form the right questions.
Good luck!!
Says to remove caliper bolts (on the sliders) then caliper mounting bracket bolts. Do you know which side you should go clockwise and which counterclockwise when rotation the caliper piston back into the caliper?
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Old 09-23-2011, 07:31 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Items Needed
  • 15mm socket and box end wrench
  • 13mm socket and box end wrench
  • High Temp Silicone grease
  1. Raise and support the rear of the vehicle. Chock the front tires.
  2. Remove the wheel.
  3. Remove the thin metal retainer nut on the stud, if equipped. (holds the rotor in place)
    [attachmentid=22966]
  4. Remove the two 13mm bolts from the brake caliper slider pins.
    [attachmentid=22967]
  5. Pry the caliper and pads off of the rotor. The rotor may have developed a ridge on the outer circumference. You may need to file the ridge down before you can remove the caliper.
  6. Discard old pads.
    [attachmentid=22968]
  7. Remove the two 15mm bolts from the caliper bracket.
  8. Remove the rotor.
  9. The caliper piston must be screwed back into the caliper bore. Use a caliper piston tool and rotate the piston clockwise. The slots in the piston must be at 12 and 6 o'clock to line up with the pad.
    • Reattach the caliper bracket and loosely tighten.
    • Reattach the caliper to the bracket and loosely tighten.
      [attachmentid=22969]
    • Use a caliper piston "box tool" or caliper tool to rotate the piston.
    • Remove components.
  10. Remove the slider pins from the bracket. Be careful not to damage the rubber boots.
    [attachmentid=22970]
  11. Clean slider pins and slider holes on the bracket of old grease and rust.
  12. Liberally apply high temp silicone grease to slider pins and holes.
    [attachmentid=22971]
  13. Reinstall slider pins and boots in the the caliper bracket. Make sure the flat side of the slider is in the correct position.
  14. Install new or resurfaced old rotor. Use brake cleaner to remove any oil from the rotor surface before installing. Anti-seize grease around the hub and rotor center hole will prevent the new rotor from rusting to the hub.
  15. Use a lug nut to hold the rotor in place.
    [attachmentid=22972]
  16. Install the caliper bracket with the two 15mm bolts. Torque to 65-87 ft lbs.
    [attachmentid=22973]
  17. Install the new pads. Use high temp silicone on the pad's back and sides (anywhere the pad makes contact with the caliper). This will prevent squeal and dragging.
    [attachmentid=22974]
  18. Slide the caliper down over the new pads.
  19. Make sure the pad next to the caliper piston is correctly seated into the piston slot.
  20. Install the two 13mm slider pin bolts. Torque to 23-25 ft lbs
    [attachmentid=22975]
  21. Mount wheel and torque to 85-100 ft lbs.
This was the link , turn clockwise to tighten.

Last edited by downhill; 09-23-2011 at 07:38 PM. Reason: Better information
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Old 09-23-2011, 09:42 PM   #5 (permalink)
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On my gen3 rear discs, caliper pistons are rotated in clockwise on both sides. Ive never had any luck with the cube for our cars. I would rent the kit for free at the parts store youre getting your pads from or pick it up for cheap from harbor freight tools. I would also suggest lubing all 4 slide pins with never-seize compound instead of grease.
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Old 09-24-2011, 08:34 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sheila View Post
On my gen3 rear discs, caliper pistons are rotated in clockwise on both sides. Ive never had any luck with the cube for our cars. I would rent the kit for free at the parts store youre getting your pads from or pick it up for cheap from harbor freight tools. I would also suggest lubing all 4 slide pins with never-seize compound instead of grease.
+1 on the slide pin lube. Keeps the brake pad from constant friction on rotor surface. Hope this is making it easier for you.
Be well, stan off to the Motocross Races!!
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Old 09-24-2011, 11:16 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sheila View Post
On my gen3 rear discs, caliper pistons are rotated in clockwise on both sides. Ive never had any luck with the cube for our cars. I would rent the kit for free at the parts store youre getting your pads from or pick it up for cheap from harbor freight tools. I would also suggest lubing all 4 slide pins with never-seize compound instead of grease.
I have had 6 cars with rear discs. I have never had any luck unless I open the bleeder screw and let the excess fluid escape into a jar. Much less pressure to overcome.

Also, the dirtyst fluid is in the wheel cylinders. Best to discard it and not try to push it back up the line through the ABS. Not at all difficult to open the bleeder and have a hose in it.

And for fronts, I have a C-clamp big enough to put around the caliper and outboard pad and push the piston back completely while still on the disc. Again, opening the bleeder first.

And agree completely with the pins for free movement. I pull them out and inspect for clean grease. If dirty or sticky, I use CV grease. (slime)

-chart-

-chart-
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Old 09-24-2011, 07:45 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Default One side done other is disassembled what a job

Right side (passenger)was the side where the pad had worn down to the back plate. Took almost an hour to get the damn thing off after unbolting both the caliper slide pins and the bolts holding on the caliper bracket which retains the pads. The 15mm bolts had to be unscewed 1/12 trun at time with a combination wrench as they were blue locktited on. Removing the caliper slide pins didn't allow the caliper to come off even though it should have.
With all 4 bolts off used a pry bar to goose the caliper and bracket off of the rotor. Then removed rotor and reattached caliper just enough to use a cube to rotate the caliper piston in. Clockwise didn't work, Counterclockwise did. Not sure what direction I need to use in the left(driver) side.
Rermoved slide pins and noted the one near the BOSCH logo on the pad retaining piece has a fluted rubber sleve near the end of the pin, The other pin does not and has a side that is ground flat. Used brake cleaner and dried before relubricating with caliper grease.
Assembly was OK except the pads kept falling out of the retaining clips. Did NOT lubricate them as they were a mess to get on without getting brake grease on them. Backing has nitrile rubber in addition to the steel plate which is on the back of the pad. That should be enough. Used original hardware after cleaning with break clean as they were not rusted and had pleanty of spring in them.
I did NOT remove the e-brake cable or hydraulic lines as it seemed unnecessary.
Got drivers side off and was trying to reseat the caliper piston but it got dark so I will go for this tomorrow.
Thanks for the detailed instructions and suggestions.
These brakes were a challenge and are not the easiest ones to replace.
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Old 09-24-2011, 11:04 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Only time ive had to remove the e-brake cable or hydraulic lines was with a caliper r&r.
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Old 09-25-2011, 11:41 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Default Finished - I THINK

Cranked the caliper piston in on the drivers side. This one goes in Clockwise. Cleaned and relubed the slider pins. This time the two dissimilar pins are reversed. The one with the fluted 1/2" rubber near the end of the pin goes in the hole farthest from the BOSCH logo. Also if you put the wrong pin in the wrong hole the rubber fluted one is too tight and the one with the flat side is too loose. Never seen 2 pins that weren't identical. Does anyone know why they are different?
Real test will be driving and seeing how the brakes are. Used CMAX ceramics from AutoZone. Have rubber nitrile backing similar to the BOSCH OEM ones I removed. Does anyone know why Ford uses BOSCH?
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