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Egr Low Flow, Bank 1 Lean, Bank 2 Lean

10K views 9 replies 8 participants last post by  Turbosax05 
#1 ·
My daughter is in Wisconsin with my Taurus, and I'm in Oklahoma trying to figure out how to make sure she gets back home. The check engine light is on, and I had her take it by AutoZone to pull the codes. I talked to the AutoZone rep, and he said he is reading codes for EGR low flow and also codes for Bank 1 lean, and Bank 2 lean. I did not get the actual code numbers from him.

I imagine the EGR low flow is caused by the DPFE sensor. My question is whether the DPFE sensor could also make the car throw the Bank 1 & 2 lean codes? I suspect the MAF is involved, but is it a totally different issue, or are the two sets of codes related to each other?
 
#3 ·
She says it runs fine at highway speeds, but it sometimes stutters, bucks, jerks, etc at low speeds, and sometimes dies while idling. While driving to Wisconsin, she got incredibly good gas mileage, averaging a little over 30 mpg over a 750 mile drive. From what I can understand, some of the time it idles okay and usually drives okay even at low speeds, but it will mis-behave occasionally.
 
#4 ·
The lean running could be caused by a faulty or contaminated MAF (or wiring problem with it). It could also be a vacuum leak. Since it is in both banks, the probability of the MAF being involved is slightly increased.

One quick test of the MAF's operation is to disconnect it. The engine will then estimate the airflow using other data. It's not quite as efficient in terms of fuel consumption, but the car should run pretty well if there are no other problems. You can then try spraying electrical contact cleaner onto the MAF sensor wires, without touching them in any way. That may or may not correct the problem.

If the car still runs poorly with the MAF disconnected, then reconnect it and look elsewhere.
 
#6 ·
The fact you are getting a EGR flow code and a lean code on both banks would point to a vacuum leak at the EGR valve or tube leading into it. Maybe the small vacuum line going to the EGR or EGR vacuum solenoid.

Check to see that the EGR bolts to the intake are tight and no leaking is happening there. Spray some carb cleaner in the area when the engine is running to see if it is leaking. If it is the idle speed with change.
 
#7 ·
My daughter made it back home today.

I pulled the DPFE sensor, and it did have some 'gunk' inside. Also, in the process of pulling it from the tubes, I managed to break both of the connectors that insert into the tubes, so I installed a new DPFE. Then, I also cleaned the MAF with electronic spray cleaner (there was a fair amount of dirt on the electrodes). A few shots of spray cleaner, and everything was nice and shiny. I also removed the IAC and cleaned it with Berryman's B12, and reinstalled it. I'll say one thing, that IAC is a lot easier to get to than the IAC on my zetec engine Contour.

Anyway, after doing the DPFE, MAF, and IAC, I cranked the engine. It started well, and ran fairly smooth, but I did detect the sound of a vacuum leak. When I started fiddling with the vacuum lines, I found one was loose where it connects to the intake. I hooked it back on, and everything appears to be fine. I haven't driven it enough yet to see for sure, but I'm optimistic.

With a dirty MAF, a gunky DPFE, and a leaky vacuum, I'm not sure which was the culprit. My vote is that the leaky vaccum was the main problem, with the others possibly contributing. Looks like SHOZ123 was right on target.
 
#8 ·
I had similar symptoms and the lean codes. Part of my problem was bad fuel. It would cause stuttering/bucking on acc. around 200 rpms. A change in seasonal temps caused some condensation and put water in the fuel. Just thought I would bring an idea to light seeing she was up north.
 
#9 ·
Originally posted by Grand Taurus 3@Jul 5 2005, 09:26 AM
I had similar symptoms and the lean codes. Part of my problem was bad fuel. It would cause stuttering/bucking on acc. around 200 rpms. A change in seasonal temps caused some condensation and put water in the fuel. Just thought I would bring an idea to light seeing she was up north.
200 rpm? Was your engine even running? ;) :p :lol2: jk

JR
 
#10 ·
Ive had my old 1.9L Escort engine run at about 200 before, right before the valve seats gave out, but that is an I4 not a V6
 
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