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Old 01-02-2013, 08:36 AM   #11 (permalink)
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I brought the truck by to a local fellow friend-of-a-friend that I was given by one of the guys in my frequently visited AutoZone. They took it out for a drive with me, listened to the noise, and hooked up their own diagnostic tool. Their conclusion was that it sounds like the fins of the Torque Converter have broken off and are causing the noise under load.

If this is true, they said, then there is a high probability that metal flakes have been floating around in the major components of the transmission. I could simply slap a new Torque Converter in there, but they "don't recommend it" and would do the whole teardown and rebuild for $1800 out the door.

Simply put, the g/f nor I have $1800 to do a rebuild on a truck that is barely worth that money. The way I see it, we/she has 3 options.

Option 1) don't do anything and just drive the truck knowing it's on borrowed time.
Option 2) Drop the pan, Flush the Tranny similar to doing the Taurus AX4S tranny, and maybe run a 1/2 bottle of Sea Foam Trans Tune through it before the flush
Option 2a) Replace the torque converter as well as doing the flush and filter change. From what I understand, this requires dropping the transmission altogethr, but NOT opening it up. Are those assumptions correct?
Option 3) take it to the shop or find another one and have the transmission rebuilt. Only have 12 months/12,000 mile warranty though.

So, are option 2/2a okay? Can I do any more real harm if I were to do a good flush and filter change and by replacing the TC for $125? According to these guys, simply flushing won't get all the metal flakes out if the fins have broken down to that size, since the fluid will drain down to the valve body.

Just looking for some insights as to what is real and what is 'over-exaggerated' that is all. Thanks! Any references or links shared would be helpful.

~Matt

Last edited by ricer333; 01-02-2013 at 01:30 PM. Reason: new knowledge
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Old 01-02-2013, 06:05 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Option 2 really isn't going to do anything so don't waste your time.

Option 1 has the potential to leave you stranded, so weigh that part of it.

I would probably go for option 2a. You should get a few quotes from some shops for just the TC replacement. They probably will not want to warrant the repair due to the metal flakes.

The metal flakes are a concern, but you might be okay if the transmission filter and magnets caught most of all of the flakes. I would not attempt a power flush, just refill the trans after the TC replacement.

You are correct about TC replacement requiring the transmission to be unbolted from the engine but not requiring disassembly.
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Old 01-03-2013, 10:10 AM   #13 (permalink)
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behlinla,
thanks for your post back. After talking it over with the local mechanic, option 2a is what we are going to do. The 'nicer' part of this is that at least the truck has a higher clearance than the Taurus' do, so I won't have to do too much jacking to drain the transmission oil/fluid.

According to AZ, there are 2 different gaskets/filter sets for this 4R44E transmission. 1) deep pan and 2) shallow pan. I believe this truck has the deep pan, but does anyone know the difference or a solid way to check/verify?

The only other question I have, since I haven't done it on this transmission/truck is how do I tell what the return transmission line is? Just like my bull, the radiator has a trans-cooler on it's drivers side where the transmission fittings screw into it. This is 1997, this model does not have the pop fittings like my 2001 bull that requires the tool.

Here is the procedure that I'm going to go off of, roughly. If anyone can offer advice/suggestions, I'm very open to them. Thanks!

0) add in 1/2 pint of SeaFoam Trans Tune to transmission fluid 30 mins before doing oil flush and follow instructions (drive around or go through gears) to work in Trans Tune properly.

1) Disconnect trans-line from transmission. Follow back the line from the Bottom of the Trans-Cooler on driver's side of radiator to find the 'return' line

2) Turn truck on and pump out old fluid through the return line. This will take a minute or two. Turn truck off when fluid starts 'crawling' out of line to prevent damage.

3) Pour in 4 quarts of new fluid and pump out the new fluid through the same disconnected hose.

4) drop the Trans Oil Pan. Clean up magnet and pan itself with some brake cleaner

5) Disconnect other transmission line and drop transmission from chassis.

6) Replace the Torque Converter

7) Put transmission back into chassis. Replace new filter and gasket for Transmission pan. Make sure magnet is back in pan and bolt pan to transmission.

8) Add in 9.5 quarts and shift through all the gears.

9) Check fluid level and add in rest of SeaFoam Trans Tune.

By my calculations, I'll need roughly 9.5 quarts of oil for the full fill in step 8, along with the 'new' oil drain that step 3 calls out. So, roughly 14 quarts of oil. Does step 3 have enough oil going into the system to 'clean' out the old stuff?

~matt

EDIT: I was trying to be similar to the thread: http://www.taurusclub.com/wiki/index...ission_at_home

Upon reviewing that thread, the procedure says to add the new clean fluid and pump out after the pan/gasket/filter have been replaced. Not sure if my procedure would do what I was thinking it would. Step 3 specifically that is.

Last edited by ricer333; 01-03-2013 at 10:19 AM.
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Old 01-03-2013, 08:25 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Why not just start with step #4? You're talking the TC out so between that and the pan drop you're going to get 80%+ of the old fluid out.

I would not run the pan dry by removing a line and having it pump out the old fluid. If you have metal in the pan this will concentrate it and make it more likely to be sucked in. Take the pan off full.

Personally I do not like to use any kind of transmission additives (no Sea Foam) that will knock stuff loose. The new fluid will have enough cleaning properties on it's own.

Not sure about the pan sizes. You might ask on a Ranger or Ford truck forum.
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Old 01-04-2013, 10:00 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by behlinla View Post
Why not just start with step #4? You're talking the TC out so between that and the pan drop you're going to get 80%+ of the old fluid out.

I would not run the pan dry by removing a line and having it pump out the old fluid. If you have metal in the pan this will concentrate it and make it more likely to be sucked in. Take the pan off full.

Personally I do not like to use any kind of transmission additives (no Sea Foam) that will knock stuff loose. The new fluid will have enough cleaning properties on it's own.

Not sure about the pan sizes. You might ask on a Ranger or Ford truck forum.
Good point. You and someone else on the explorer forums said to just start by dropping the pan and cleaning up that. I was just trying to get most of the oil out of the TC to aid in the process. Some of these TC's had a drain plug, but I haven't had the chance to get under there and see. Supposedly there is some sort of TC shield that I would have to remove to see if the TC has a drain plug.

I will have to disconnect both tranny lines to remove the transmission. Would it be a good idea to flush those lines with something like Mineral Spirits and blow them out with compressed air? My thinking it to get any/all fluid out of the transcooler that sits on the side of the radiator.
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Old 01-04-2013, 06:09 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by ricer333 View Post
I will have to disconnect both tranny lines to remove the transmission. Would it be a good idea to flush those lines with something like Mineral Spirits and blow them out with compressed air? My thinking it to get any/all fluid out of the transcooler that sits on the side of the radiator.
If you want to blow the lines out that's fine, but I would skip the mineral spirits for fear of residue. Make sure you turn the regulator down on your air compressor so you're not putting too much pressure in the lines and blow something.
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