The following is a collection of tips and advice I've picked up on the
TCCA Forums as well as personal experience. I've put them all together into an easy to read article for everyone so you don't need to be an expert to understand what's going on. Thank you to all the technicians, mechanics, owners, and drivers who shared their advice, technical knowledge, and experience about this car. Without them, this article wouldn't be possible.
The
AXOD-E/AX4S transaxle used in the Taurus/Sable is a 4-speed automatic overdrive transaxle (meaning it has the transmission and differential in the same unit). It was introduced in 1991 and is an electronically controlled
AXOD. It was used in the Taurus/Sable until early 2003 and was replaced by the
AX4N.
The
AXOD-E/AX4S is a synchronous transaxle which means the internal clutches engage at the same time. This means you can feel the different "gears" as it shifts sequentially. It is the weakest link under the hood. Because of its weakness, you have to be extra careful and take extra precautions to keep it lasting long. Some simple precautions you can take is just change the transmission fluid more frequently than recommended, use synthetic transmission fluid, and install an auxiliary transmission cooler. It's mainly the heat that kills most transaxles because the transaxle sits in a cramped spot under the engine so there is little heat dissipation. The heat also depletes the additives that are in transmission fluid which makes it less effective in the long run.
For more detailed information about how an automatic transmission works, please refer to the How Stuff Works article on
automatic transmissions.
What Not To Do
Knowing how to drive the car efficiently is also a big help. I know everyone wants to go racing in their car, but that's just not the right thing to do. Neutral bombs (putting the shifter into neutral, revving the engine, then drop it into gear) are like playing Russian roulette. You may be lucky and still have your transaxle, but you don't want to be unlucky and shoot a piston through your transaxle pan and wiping out the gears with it. Brake torquing will heat up the transmission fluid and that's what you don't want to do either.
Now that the obvious is out of the way, let's go on to the not so obvious things. These transaxles are slow to shift. You might have noticed it when it shifts from first to second. Personally, I would take it easy and not go above 2000 RPMs when it's shifting from first to second. You can go a little higher, but don't go excessively high (like past 5000 RPMs). Once it completes the first to second shift, the other gears are a lot more firm and quick. The reason for this is because it does the first to second shift a lot more often than the other shifts thus wearing it out faster. It gets sloppy over time and becomes the most noticeable. Just take it easy until you get out of first.
Speaking of slow shifting, it doesn't just apply to the forward gears. When you move the shifter manually it will also shift slow. Like when you shift from Park to Reverse, Park to Drive, Reverse to Drive, etc. The most noticeable "lag" is the Reverse-to-a-forward-gear shift and vice versa. It seems to take the computer a while to think about the decision. On the older cars you can feel it clunk into gear when it's ready. The newer ones have a softer shift, but it still takes a while for the computer to change the gear. You should wait a second or two before taking off. You should always come to a complete stop before moving the shifter. If you let it roll and then add gas while the computer changes gear, you end up doing a mini neutral bomb.
Torque Converter
This section is just here for reference. Tips and advice about how to manipulate the torque converter are in the
Overdrive vs. Drive section. If you are interested in learning about the torque converter, then I recommend reading the How Stuff Works article on
torque converters for a more in-depth look at a torque converter and what it does in an automatic transmission.
So basically the torque converter (T/C) is a fluid coupling between the engine and transmission that allows the engine to spin freely when the car is stopped in gear and allows the engine to send power to the transmission when you release the brake pedal or hit the gas pedal. It's kind of like an automatic clutch. A neat feature of the T/C is the automatic lockup. In the
AXOD-E/AX4S, the automatic lockup is electronic and is controlled by the computer. It reduces slippage between the engine and transaxle which results in better fuel economy at highway speeds.
The T/C in the
AXOD-E/AX4S will lock up in third and fourth (Overdrive) at around 1500 RPMs. The lowest speed the T/C will lock up at is 30 MPH and the lowest speed it unlocks is at 25 MPH. If you're driving around the city and you release the gas pedal, it will automatically unlock. I don't really see a valid reason as to why it does this. If you feather the pedal (slowly reduce the pressure on the gas pedal), it won't unlock. When it locks/unlocks, it will look like a shift on the tachometer, but you won't feel the harsh bump that's normally associated with a shift. The RPMs go up by about 500 RPMs when it unlocks, and the RPMs go down by 500 RPMs when it locks. This is normal. It will also unlock first before downshifting you add gas at cruising speed (such as going up a hill or want to pass another car) and lock back up after you get back to cruising speed. You can get an expensive chip for the computer to re-program the T/C's locking and unlocking abilities (such as staying locked up once it locks up until you hit the brakes) if you really don't like the stock programming.
First Gear
First gear is mainly used for going up and down steep hills. It offers engine braking going downhill while keeps the engine in the torque range for better climbing. As long as you don't exceed 30 MPH, it should be fine to use. Locking first gear is also great for premature failure in rush hour or in parking lots since it likes to shift between first and second gear a lot in low speed stop-and-go. I wouldn't recommend shifting into it while the car is in motion. It's a rather harsh shift. It's also not a direct linkage into first gear. If you're going fast enough, you can pull the shifter into first, but it'll only downshift into second so the transaxle won't blow itself up. See, the computer can be smarter than the user sometimes. I wouldn't recommend doing it often though because that's mainly for engine braking going down a hill. Once it gets to a low enough speed, the computer will lock the transaxle into first until you move the shifter again.
Park and Neutral
There are some things you ought to know about Park and Neutral. There is a rev limiter for Park and Neutral that limits the engine's RPMs to 4000 RPMs. This is to prevent the engine from blowing itself up because of an ignorant user. In the other gear selections the computer raises the rev limiter (somewhere around 5500 to 6000 RPMs), but there's also a speed limiter that will cut the engine's power at a predetermined speed (somewhere around 110 to 115 MPH).
Neutral is interesting. It doesn't seem like it's doing much but allowing the wheels to spin independent of the engine. Now if you were moving at 60 MPH and you popped the shifter into Neutral, you'd expect the car to keep rolling (maybe slow down a tiny bit too), but have the engine's speed drop to idle, right? Wrong! If you're going 60 MPH and put the shifter into Neutral, the RPMs will stay at where it was before when the transaxle was in gear. This is a feature so that the transaxle won't tear itself apart when you put the shifter back into gear. Now, if you tried to shove the shifter into Park, you'll just get a rapid clicking sound and slow down quickly until 20 MPH. At that point the front wheels will proceed to lock up. I highly recommend not putting the shifter into Park when the car is in motion. I believe the computer also has enough sense to not allow the transaxle to go into Reverse when the speed is high enough (don't try it if you value your transaxle in case I'm wrong about the computer's programming).
Park is not a substitution for the
parking brake! Never leave the car without setting the parking brake! Think about it. In Park, the only thing stopping your two ton car from rolling away is a metal rod the size of a pencil. That's not real reassuring. The parking brake takes a lot of weight off that metal rod so that you can shift in and out of Park much easier and it doesn't stress the transaxle more than it needs to. Always set the parking brake before going into Park. There have been stories about cars slipping out of Park or Park failing so spend that extra couple of seconds and
push down that pedal.